Kingdom (2003)
    by Alexander McQueen






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    Showing 1 to 6 of 59 reviews.

    jtd's avatar
    jtd
    United States United States

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    I pulled out my sample of the discontinued (?) Kingdom edp with the thought that I’d single it out in my general complaint of the misuse of cumin to attempt to recreate animalic notes. When cumin is used to imply animalic notes, it typically doesn’t work, smells fake and makes the perfume seem cheap. I can’t say that Kingdom entirely escapes this trap. My complaint isn’t that the cumin is strong, but that it doesn’t actually recreate the animalic, and therefore, seen simply as a heavy spice note, is imbalanced and out of place. As I revisit Kingdom, I still find that a spurious note sinks the fragrance, but its not the huge cumin topnote. The real culprit is the mushy-musky drydown that seems like a thwarted attempt to emulate sandalwood.

    Francis Kurkjian’s Lumière Noire pour Homme made me rethink the use of cumin. It pairs a roasted cumin scent with rose and recreates the feel if not the exact scent of the rose chypres of the 1970s-1980s. Kingdom reads more as an oriental than a nouvelle chypre, but both show that cumin is more effective as a patchouli adjunct than as a castoreum/civet/musk parallel.

    30th November, 2012

    loveless's avatar
    loveless
    Taiwan Taiwan

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    Colder days are here so I took out Kingdom and wore it today. Years later it still amazes me with its wild mixture of smells, I always find Kingdom a bit unruly and uncivilized (if a perfume can be described this way) and I enjoy it. A strange beauty .

    A complete, well-done job from opening to drydown.

    12 November, 2011

    sherapop's avatar
    sherapop
    United States United States

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    Am I the only one who thought that a fragrance with the name KINGDOM would be intended for men? Am I the only one for whom this odd assortment of oriental notes ends by smelling like a reduction of redwood oil in the drydown? Honestly, this is one of the strangest creations I've ever sniffed! How do I get a woody-spicy perfume from an assortment of notes NONE of which is wood?

    The ever-so-brief citrus opening of KINGDOM holds promise, but what happens next is an inexorable march to a pseudo-wood oil drydown, which becomes clunkier and woodier over time. I've worn this composition a few times, with the same final effect: the woodiest fragrance I've ever worn--yet it contains no wood whatsoever?! If the categorization of perfumes into feminine and masculine makes any sense at all, KINGDOM really is destined for men, it seems to me.

    I am not put off, as are some, by what they are identifying as cumin in this composition, for in my case everything blends with everything else: celery seed, oakmoss, rhubarb, mint, carnation--you name it, it appears to be in here--as though mashed together with a mortar and pestle to produce something that is not in here at all! Weird, weird, weird.

    Although I do believe that this composition is unique, when I put it on I find myself wondering: 1) when will the wood chips stop flying into my face? 2) can I actually wear this anywhere? 3) wouldn't this be a nice time for a bath?

    For the record: this smells *nothing* like DUNE to me.

    03 September, 2011

    dark phoenix 123's avatar
    dark phoenix 123
    Singapore Singapore

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    I find Kingdom (edp not edt) similar to Dune, but minus the sweetness and the cumin turned up. Alas.. both perfumes are not cheap... so Dune is not exactly a cheaper substitute.

    10th June, 2011 (Last Edited: 15 December, 2011)

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    When a fragrance, despite being sin in its deep substance, despite festering otherworldly secretions or aphrodisiacal seminal liquid of dragon (at least for the main part of its development) notwithstanding achieves the hardest conceivable effort to enter its olfactory substance inside the human contemporary fashionable parameters, well talking about balances in spite of that accomplished miracle is like breaking the spell, like daring to replace its perdurable, supernatural trait with a material boredom. That critical exercise becomes therefore eventually a vulgar manifestation of olfactory chauvinism in case. Kingdom in the course of its evolution discloses itself as "ultra-dimentional" potion able to teleport me in a medieval steaming contexture, in a world of Holy Inquisition, decadent castles and fortifications by drawbridges endowed. A vague world in grey comes to mind, a world of secret loves consummated in the hidden rooms, a world of damsels and carriages towed by robust horses. Such types of fragrances hardly aim to reach the perfection of balances and long indeed to uphold the dirty, the obscene, to convey around a message of debatable luxuriousness. Kingdom manages certainly to become a contemporary fragrance but is a scent that lives a struggling conflict between obscurantism and modernism and is one of the most feminine ever cause (it is absolutely true) conjures, even if just in its obscure background, the smell of women anatomy, a whiff of acid/mild feminine sweat, the aroma of consummated sex and secretions. While the off-putting whiffs in Allure slide in to disgust and the overly acid, in here on the contrary evolve towards a pheromonical smell of sin. The bitter-sweet smell of passions, the controversial waves open at once the doors to a surprisingly modern glamour trait in a scent ideated for the women of the Kingdom’s court. The vulgar and animalist accord of citrus-neroli-ginger-cumin-pepper (the soul and core of the fragrance i mean) is the gothic, dissonant and decadent characteristic of the juice, is the otherworldly face performed by witches and fairs, is the sabre of scandal. The cumin is prominent, overwhelming, spicy, sultry and dirty, it is circled by the other soldiers in the mission of rising up human secretions, animal molecules and disappeared wild odors in the night of the ages. Rose and jasmine must strain themselves in order to counterpoise the animal, pungent (sweaty) trait with their sensual and "contemporary" vibe. Is like to tame a crazy bull, a furious blooding beast but the flowers couldn't manage to get it in loneliness, they needed a support for sure. The creamy, woody, musky base achieves the strenuous attempt to link and root down the potion to the new world ground, to the contemporary age, in order to step from the imagination up to the real, to give texture and consistence to the sultriness, to support the flowers in the attempt to fence the animal in. The stout sandalwood, supporting flowers and balsams, manages in its task, completes the mission, tames the animal giving stableness to the madness. The outcome is a contemporary pheromonical, dark rose-woody scent which manages to wave from the gothic to glamour, from the animalist trait to modern chic at once realizing all with wonderful sillage and a great longevity. Kingdom, accomplished the transition, will anyway be in our olfactory memory for its hidden core of left back (in the medieval past) atmosphere and not (for sure) because of its final modern (and more ordinary) outlook appearance.

    29 January, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 January, 2014)

    Mar Azul's avatar
    Mar Azul
    Bulgaria Bulgaria

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    Well this fragrance has been so largely discussed that i don't feel capable of adding something substantial to note analysis etc. I can speak only about my relation to it.

    Surprisingly, Kingdom turned out to be one of my most versatile scents, maybe topped only by Mugler Cologne. I can always put it on without any special occasion and without too much thinking as it fells right most of the time. And I have this abstract connection between Kingdom and Mugler Cologne, not by notes but - not sure how to say that - some kind of sensual freshness. Mugler Cologne has its citrus top, almost like real cologne would, but then it goes the the Eastern way with musk and then something which give an alien, sci-fi fell to it all. Kingdom does the same with its sweet citrusy opening which then reveals some kind of oriental structure but again, it's fiction not pretending to be authentic or classic, it's the sci-fi remake of an oriental base.

    Rose and jasmine, myrrh and raw vanilla, they blend beyond recognition. As about cumin, hasn't it been discussed so vastly everywhere, i would never focus on it, i think it blends perfectly within the slightly smoky base. And I don't think I'm so tolerant to cumin in large doses: I can't stand for example the latest Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur. Definitely not body odor to my nose in Kingdom. In fact, no extremes at all because of its smooth blending, so smooth it even feels a bit defocused; which just makes it more wearable as it doesn't speak instead of me when I wear it, it just complements me, adds a beauty aspect to the air around me. Not happiness, mind you, not even joy; it's this beauty that always evokes longing so we never say we enjoy beauty as we'd also rarely admit beauty can make us sad. Me, I don't actually know how to feel about beauty. It's just there with its roses and myrrh to turn prose into poetry.


    16 January, 2011

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