The fig note with tarragon makes for a pleasant opening, with a nice fruity-floral drydown that merges with a floral drydown sporting rose with a touch of other flowery component. A fairly light frankinsence with wood and a nice vanilla dominate the base on my skin. Elegant, but fairly pale and a bit dull on me, with moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity. Nothing special.
Both the men’s and women’s versions of Dia are marketed as daytime complements to the respective gender’s Gold, but where the masculine Dia bears little resemblance to Gold for Men, the feminine Dia smells like a trimmed down and re-balanced version of the women’s Gold. The volume is turned down by several decibels – particularly on the powdery floral accord. This serves to emphasize the frankincense that anchors the heart of the perfume while causing the entire composition to read as more staid and demure. However, given Gold’s cetacean scale, this slenderized sister scent is hardly an exercise in minimalism. Dia is actually a full-bodied, layered, floral-incense composition with an elegantly rounded profile. It is also, without question, more versatile and more wearable than the outrageously flamboyant Gold. Dia still offers plenty of sillage, projection, and lasting power, along with a very suave and ever so faintly animalic amber, incense and soft wood drydown.
What Dia for Women lacks, to my nose, is the distinctive character offered by its male counterpart, and by dispensing with its sister’s over-the-top exuberance it misses half the fun. When spending this kind of money, I want a scent that’s either utterly distinctive or gives a real sense of occasion when worn. Dia for Men satisfies me on the first count, and the women’s Gold amply delivers on the second. Dia for Women smells wonderful, but it’s slightly shy of the mark on both criteria. So while I rate it highly, I probably would not buy it.
Reminiscent of Jean Louis Scherrer - a green floral chypre
I love truly original scents, whether I actually would wear them or not. There is so much available today that is the same as dozens of others - uniqueness seems to have gone out of fashion.
Amouage Dia reminds me of the opalescent green floral chypre of Jean Louis Scherrer's initial namesake scent. Totally original and arresting. Not for me, but I admire it just the same.
None of the other reviews here mention this particular comparison, but they all note that Dia borrows from a number of other creations. Amouage would have more value per their outrageous pricing if one were buying a scent that was unique, and not a derivation.
Pros: "Almost" unique scent
Cons: Copy of an earlier "original""
Is undeniable that this classic aldehydic/floral follows the footsteps of some previous historical compositions as the more radiant and notorious Chanel N.5 and the more shadowy/brown and fruity/animalic V&A First, passing through Caleche (less aldehydic and more soapy/leathery in my opinion) and Rive Gauche (initially more angular/aromatic/hesperidic and finally more musky). Dia is aldehydic for sure, really rosey and orangy throughout but owns an its personal identity finally morphing towards a fabulous oriental and soapy musky/vanillic powder (with some sort of almondy/figgy and violety nuances) so enveloping and holy. The dry down is the part i appreciate more cause it's more modern than the aldehydic beginning itself but above all is more particular as just in this final phase i'm able to definitely place this concoction on a different level, probably less properly soapy, musky or powdery than some of its antecessors but more delicate and creamy/floral (with a multifaceted wake of cyclamen, violet, fig/almond and rose). Another wonderful, never offensive and extremely well crafted creation by Ellena that keeps on an absolute balance between floral, aldehydic, oriental, fruity and aromatic/green elements with a perfect level of density, freshness and mildness.
It starts as a really nice No. 5-esque aldehydic perfume, complete with the all-important sparkly topnotes, though I must say that it sort of misses the mark, smelling more like fancy powdery 7-Up than No. 5's legendary champagne. It's very soapy, and any florals just flavor the soap without really standing out. These aren't complaints at all, just observations - I really liked the first few hours of Dia.
Then, it goes a little weird, adding in an interesting smell that reminds me of hot wet hair on a vaguely sweaty woman. This makes the soapy flowers smell like shampoo, so the final hours of Dia (and we're talking quite a long time, as this has some serious tenacity) smell like a vaguely gross woman's locker room shower full of sweaty women with wet hair using especially fragrant flowery shampoo. I know this sounds kind of nuts, but Bond's Astor Place has the same hot wet hair effect, so it's a real thing that perfumers actually do...
Honestly, I didn't like the steamy wet hair smell, and it feels like a silly novelty to put into what otherwise felt like a grand old-school aldehydic floral. I'm glad there are perfumers experimenting with interesting effects, but that doesn't mean I have to want to wear them...