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The lily has such a potent persona that I see it as a difficult flower to handle in fragrances. Des Lys by Annick Goutal is one of the best lily fragrances I’ve tested… beautifully done. It’s a simple composition – almost soloflores, and I think that that is the right choice because lily is like sandalwood and rose – it can stand pretty much alone and still be complete. This lily scent has a healthy green streak in it from the use of the Casablanca lily, and I think that that was also a good choice, because the lily here is just gorgeous. There’s a freshness and a lightness to Des Lys that doesn’t always accompany the potent lily aroma. Uncontrolled lily is a monster, but not so this one… Miss Goutal presents a mannerly sophisticated take. What little drydown that it has is a smooth earthy texture that beautifully counterpoints and contrasts the sensuous lily note. Unfortunately there is a problem with longevity, but I think that might be typical of lily fragrances, and I know it is often typical of Goutal fragrances so I’m not concerned.
17 October, 2008