Balmain de Balmain (1998)
by Pierre Balmain

A lovely green, uplifting fragrance.

First of all, I need to thank Vibert for a rousing review, which convinced me to order Balmain de Balmain unsniffed.

Balmain de Balmain is green from start to finish, and it is one of the nicest green fragrances I have smelled so far.

The galbanum and bergamot give the opening a lush transparency that immediately indicates how lovely an olfactory experience the wearer is in for.

The jasmine in the middle lasts for the length of the fragrance, and ensures that Balmain de Balmain remains perfectly balanced between sweetness and greenness. I think it is this balance that makes Balmain de Balmain one of the ultimate unisex fragrance options.

I mainly get grassy vetiver and moist oak moss in the base, with just a little bit of wood.

At the price Balmain de Balmain sells for, it must be the fragrance bargain of the decade.

Once in a great while I’ll put a fragrance on for the first time, and “Bam!” I just know it’s a winner. Then I’ll sit down to review it and find myself at a loss to convey its qualities. Balmain de Balmain is one of those instances. I’ll tell you that it’s marvelous, and I’ll attempt to describe its evolution as I wear it, but I won’t do it any justice.

Balmain de Balmain’s effervescent top notes have all kick of champagne corks popping. Crystal clear bergamot, bittersweet herbaceous notes, hints of leather, and smoky spices combine in an accord that’s at once rich and stimulating, complex and immediately legible. It’s simply one of the most gratifying opening gambits I’ve smelled. Ever. And it makes me smile every time.

The bergamot inevitably recedes with time, and its place in the composition is taken by floral notes, most noticeably a clear, green jasmine. The spices persist, while a brisk, yet earthy green chypre accord assembles itself in the foundation. As the floral notes and spices fade away, the moss and woods of the chypre core stand exposed in all of their gaunt beauty.

Balmain de Balmain’s structure and progression go beyond classical; as the scent unwraps itself, each layer comes as a delightful surprise, yet each appears in hindsight to be utterly inevitable. Balmain de Balmain transcends gender: it is as completely unsex a fragrance as anything I’ve smelled. As if that were not enough, it’s also dirt cheap and readily available.

Sometimes miracles do happen. I urge you to experience this one!

Balmain perfume is, apparently, classed as a floral / fruity fragrance yet, to me, it seems the total opposite to that and I would class it as a woody fragrance. It is decidedly masculine smelling and I could barely smell any of the floral notes, such as rose and iris, in it at all. I had read in various reviews that it starts out slightly masculine smelling but then evolves into something much more feminine but, sadly, for me that wasn't the case. I was really hoping I would love this perfume and that it would be a bit of a "sleeper" scent for me but unfortunately it hasn't really lived up to my expectations, although it smells pleasant but it's just not the right kind of perfume for me. However, it is elegant and smooth smelling but I think it would work much better on a man than a woman, or maybe for a woman who enjoys wearing masculine, woody smelling scents!

A very green spicy top sets the tone for this revival of the classic chypre style. The innovative stroke here in the green chypre sub-genre is the inclusion of cassia buds to provide a aromatic woody-spicy note in the top. The floral bouquet in the heart is not novel, but seems to me to be remarkably well-balanced. The classic chypre triad bergamot-oakmoss-patchouli gives this a truly classic profile, and the inclusion of sandalwood and vetiver in the base reinforce the woody hint first given in the cassia buds. All in all, very classic, yet satisfyingly updated with a bit of zing. Luca Turin says this is a man's chypre, and I think I agree. At least one woman reviewer on Basenotes does too. By now, the floral accord in the heart would be no surprise in any men's fragrance. I like this for cool to temperate days or summer evenings, but it works pretty well in any weather.

for me, this fragrance was an instant love relationship. i can understand jale saying it's too masculine and not liking it. it is not for everybody. acting wisely and not draining my wallet, i first ordered a mini of balmain. upon the very first sniff it was clear, this is a fragrance thought for a chic and independent french lady in a casual yet sophisticated white shirt. at least that's what came to my mind. the fragrance is daring, miles away from being ordinary, a wonderful chypre for all those that like to make a subtle yet powerful statement about what they like. it does in deed, smell a tiny bit like a man's fragrance at first, but that gives way to subtler florals, and to my nose, the drydown reminded me a tad of chanel's cristalle. it opens with galbanum, making it green, and bergamot, black pepper (which is probably making it smell 'manly' to me although i'm new to the world of fragrances and still don't master all the nuances...). the heart is more to the feminine liking with its subtle jasmine, heart, violetts and iris. with its floral heart gently lingering, the fragrance takes on its woody aspects thanks to moss, santal, patchouli and vetiver (lovely btw). to wrap it up, it is classy and very fresh. a hidden treasure ;)

Don't like it at all. Has a masculine touch to it. reminds me of Chanel's No. 19.... the green notes in it. Becomes rather unpleasant when you spray on too much.... I would not call it feminine.