Calvin Klein (1978)
by Calvin Klein

One of the most oakmoss intensive feminine fragrances I can think of besides Mitsuoko. This has a base that is similar to Kenzo Pour Homme, but a gorgeous fruity floral top that makes this unmistakably feminine. A true masterpiece, although rare these days. The florals are mostly white florals with a touch of peach, and the notes say rasberry, but not enough to break the threshold of awareness. This has great longevity and the perfect amount of projection. Good for casual wear as well as formal. This is one of my favorite feminine fruity chypres. Catch it if you can!

5th January, 2012.

I bought a bottle of this for myself when I was 13, and I've had a bottle of it ever since (it wouldn't have been easy - I think it was discontinued in the early 80s - but I got lucky and stocked up when I came across it much later in an old drugstore.) Calvin Klein is a gorgeous, radiant and warm rose chypre that reminds me a bit of Diva but less darkly herbaceous, or perhaps a spicier and mossier Detchema. I can also smell some resemblance to Gucci No. 1, another aldehydic, mossy, carnationy rose ...and maybe Safari as well (all favorites of mine.) I wouldn't describe it as girly or flirty - it's womanly and elegant, tailored enough for the office and sexy enough for a romantic evening.

The first few moments are all about green aldehydes, then the rose becomes more evident. Although the rose is dominant to my nose, it's definitely more chypre in character rather than a full-blown floral. Like many 70s chypres, it's very complex and full of well-blended notes, and I have a hard time picking out a lot of them - peach? Gardenia and raspberry? I'll just say that everything that's in it is doing a wonderful job.

I'm sincerely shocked that this isn't more frequently mentioned - it just seems too beautiful to be so obscure. And it makes me wonder what could have taken its place, because anyone who loves these classic 70s chypres would surely have something like this in their wardrobe. I'm quite smitten with many of the newer spicy or dirty rose "chypres" (Agent Provocateur, Rossy de Palma) but I've yet to find one that can replace the original Calvin Klein in the glossy burgundy box.

31st October, 2009. (Last Edited: 9th August, 2011.)

Very floral, full, rich, and beautiful. I loved it then and would gladly love it now, albeit, less frequently.

21st February, 2009.