Perfume Directory

Nuit de Nol (1922)
by Caron


Nuit de Nol information

Year of Launch1922
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 241 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerErnest Daltroff
PackagingFlicie Bergaud
Parent CompanyAles Group

About Nuit de Nol

Nuit de Nol is a feminine perfume by Caron. The scent was launched in 1922 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Ernest Daltroff. The bottle was designed by Flicie Bergaud

Nuit de Nol fragrance notes

Reviews of Nuit de Nol

It's a like a worm soft blanket yet so powerful and unique. It smells totally manly (what ever that means) on my skin. Can't get enough of this fragrance!
03rd November, 2018
Do get a sense of christmas in the drydown and while its not mentioned as official notes I do get a sense of christmas spices. I do get a sense of a scented candle though
16th July, 2018
Soft and silky and utterly sumptuous, this velvety chypre/oriental smells like sweetened nuts and tender moss and romantic incense. In other words, it smells deeply, gently vintage and completely unlike anything else. The pure parfum in the black 'flapper' bottles is the version to sniff. Here all the floral notes (primarily ylang-ylang and rose) blend so beautifully with the low-toned alto-notes of oak moss and anise that it's as if your skin itself is simply radiating a lovely and tender essence--one that marks you as warm, beautiful, grown up, and female. There is something in here that also hints at seductive, swirling smoke. This is a rare beauty, and along with Tabac Blond, one of Caron's absolute best.
16th September, 2017
I think I'm just not a fan of old fashioned chypres. The notes are too well blended for me and I can pick out a clovey pine that might have a rose hint to it and is covering up a really nice oakmoss. However this is probably an excellent example of a chypre. This is the EDT version.
11th February, 2017
A warm embrace, that gathers and holds and keeps you close. Nuit de Nol offers a reassurance that classical perfumery, with its layering and orchestration, has still so much to tell us and that its message can be of warmth and love. But the first thing it seems to be saying in its enclosing hug is: Be not afraid. For here is a perfume of great boldness, albeit dressed in golden raiment and with a softness of touch that defies you to equate daring with any kind of militancy.
Upfront is a huge floral bouquet, with a rich and heady jasmine as its star; it has an amazing carnal warmth tempered by the classic understudy note of rose. The rose is here purely to round out and refine the opulent jasmine, rather than shine in its own right, and it performs this selfless function perfectly in the service of a luminous (yet far from transparent) floral accord.
In keeping with the classic manner the florals are wrapped in layer upon refined layer. Ambery-musky tones, a gauzy powder, a tremendously complex woody layer that feels like a perfume in its own right, accents of moss here rendered warm by the glow of the rest, all suggest great depths and familiar mysteries. I smell matured and tempered spices, balsams, candied orange and patisserie almond and chestnut preparations. It matters little if there are corresponding ingredients to these impressions this is a perfume that suggests so many things, none in discord. This is its gift, accept it and be rewarded.
Despite a noticeable moss note, I would hesitate to call Nuit de Nol a chypre it has none of that familys briskness or angularity. Instead, there is oriental warmth and luxury, contained within a classic sense of structure there is no sprawl to it. That classicism gives it an antique quality but one that is sympathetic, full of character and so much more giving than the distortions of nostalgia.
10th February, 2017
Modern niche perfumery makes it easy for us. It must be like playing charades with the worlds slowest child. They supply us with all the visual and background cues and then sit back and do a slow clap when we get it. Ambre Russe? Mention vodka in the press materials and in one sniff we are mentally whisked away to boozy Cossacks, samovars, fur, and gold-gilded palaces. De Profundis? Give an essentially cheery floral perfume a gloomy name and a depressive back-story, and suddenly everyone makes the connection to death and funerals.

If we werent supplied so readily with these cues, would we make those connections? Probably not. But lets admit that the back-story is half the fun of it. We are only human after all we want everything we do to have meaning. Even if its only our perfume.

Smell Caron Nuit de Noel in vintage parfum form, though, and everything you know about narrative is upended. It is a Wagnerian opera-sized perfume and we not handed so much as a leaflet. Oh yes, I forgot, they did give us that name Nuit de Noel. But it doesnt smell like Christmas, so that doesnt help.

But this is what perfume smelled like once upon a time. A dense, powdered thing of mystery that doesnt really give a shit if you manage to unlock its layers or not. Its so analog in a digital world that it makes me laugh.

Nuit de Noel doesnt really have traditional topnotes. In fact, its a fragrance best worn for its basenotes, and is therefore the complete opposite to how perfumes are made these days - stuffed with amazing topnotes that last just long enough to get you over to the till to pay your money and petering out into one big fat nothing three hours later. Nuit de Noel, on the other hand, plunges you right into the second cycle of Der Ring des Nibelungen and just trusts that you know enough German to get by. In a way, I appreciate that approach by giving me very few cues, it expects me to have enough intelligence to figure it out on my own.

Im still not sure Ive figured Nuit de Noel out, though. I aint that smart. But I like the challenge. The top notes are intense, like a wall of sound coming straight at you. Dense and unwieldy, it smells like bitter powder and polished old woods with a streak of green moss running through it. There is also a huge dose of the typically Caron carnation/clove accord, which I find bitter-leathery and spicy in equal measure. The overall impression I get is of being wrapped in an old fur coat its both old-fashioned and luxurious.

I dont get any of the Christmas associations, but there is a stage of its development where I sense both the mealy, fluffy meat of roasted chestnuts and a sweet, liquor-like rose. Perhaps its that hint of rich fruited breads and baked goods that lead some to make the connection to Christmas. The green, mossy chypre notes also create a crisp, cold-air feeling, placing this perfume in the context of snow. Aside from the notes, there is a certain glow to this perfume - a radiant warmth like candlelight.

As time goes on, a licorice-like note creeps in, cloaking the fragrance in a velvety, sweet darkness. Think soft black licorice, not the challenging Danish stuff that tastes like salt. This note is a feature of the famous Mousse de Saxe, said to contain a heavy mixture of anise (or fennel seed), vanillin, geranium, and isobutyl quinoline (smoky, tough leather notes).

The Mousse de Saxe makes up a huge proportion of Nuit de Noel, and lends it its decisively dark green, mossy, smoky, and sweet flavor profile. A pre-packaged base, Mousse de Saxe is no longer made by Caron to the original recipe, although to their credit, they try to recreate it in order to keep their current parfums rich and full-bodied. But to my nose, there is a rich, dark, and melting softness to vintage Nuit de Noel (reminiscent of marrons glaces, as some have pointed out) that is just not there in the modern Carons.

The leather, powder, and geranium facets of the base connect Nuit de Noel to other hard-to-categorize fragrances like Habanita and Vol de Nuit. Part chypre, part oriental, all three of these fragrances are soft, boneless straddlers of several categories at once and contain a mystery of their very own that is difficult to unpack, to analyze. Mysterious and cool-toned, they leave behind a lingering impression of green moss, face powder, leather, and half-smoked cigarettes. The most slatternly women you could imagine, and the ones I most want to know.

Smelling Nuit de Noel parfum now a melancholic experience, though. Vol de Nuit and Habanita are still in good shape. But with oakmoss being severely restricted these days, the Caron bases can never smell as complex as they once did, and so when I smell my sample of vintage Nuit de Noel parfum, I realize that Im essentially smelling the air from a time capsule.
03rd March, 2016

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Nuit de Noel by Caron 1.7 Eau de Toilette Rare and perfect for Valentine’s Day!

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Vintage RARE Caron Nuit de Noel Eau de Toilette Original Formula 8 OZ. 65% Full

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❤️ NUIT DE NOEL CARON 1.oz./ 30 ml. Parfum Vintage. Black Baccarat Bottle

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Caron Nuit de Noel 1.7oz/ 50ml Eau de Toilette. New in Box. SEALED

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Caron Nuit de Noel 1.7 oz/50 ml EDT Spray New in box & Sealed."Discontinued"

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Nuit De Noel by Caron 1.0oz / 30ml EDT Spray For Women New In Box

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Nuit De Noel Parfum 2.0 fl.oz. by Caron. Black Baccarat Bottle. Sealed.

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