Fleurs de Rocaille (1933)
by Caron

Yet another super classic floral bomb, with a lot of jasmine, lavender and heliotrope; earth, pollen, aldehydes, sumptuosity and femininity at its best. Slightly honeyed, and increasingly soapy as minutes pass - a floral, rich, powdery and slightly metallic kind of soapy. A hint of citrus at the opening, camphoraceous resins and benzoin on the base. Can't get any more classic than this, in a totally good and compelling way: a safe, confident, classy, well-aged and even kind of austerely majestic floral chypre for elegant ladies (and men). Perhaps unoriginal (or a bit washed-down in the current version), but a solid one.

7,5/10

This is the only scent that reminds me of Estee Lauder's White Linen. White Linen is my signature scent. Fleurs de Rocaille is like a softer more summery version of White Linen to me. I do find it lasts on my skin, although on others I see it does not. It does rate good comments when I wear it and I always have a backup bottle. When I first smelled it it was like stumbling on a golden smell I'd looked for for a long time.

I agree, this perfume is 'done right'.

The opening of Fleurs de Rocaille is very aledhydic, though on my skin the aldehydes only last a short time, giving way to almost bittersweet floral notes (which remind of me heather and gorse). After 5-6 hours it is still very strong, and becomes very animalic: I have seen some fragrances (most notably Kouros) described as having an almost urine note, which is definitely evident in this stage of Fleurs de Rocaille; maybe it's a type of musk. It's not unpleasant, but definitely animalic.

Apart from the aldehydic notes which only last 10-15 minutes on my skin, I can't compare Fleurs de Rocaille with perfumes such as Chanel No5 or Arpege, as I have seen a number of online reviews doing. Fleurs de Rocaille is very elegant and sophistcated, and certainly not dated.

Do not confuse Fleurs de Rocaille with the newer Fleur de Rocaille, which is a much more modern and in my opinion, not very pleasant floral fragrance.

I don't know where people are getting aldehydes in this...this is a straight up floral blend,
appropriate at all times and nice in warm, even hot, weather. Never too cloying

Initial review for the reformualation: Very light, undistinguished floral medley of rose, jasmine, violet, lily of the valley, musk, cedar, sandalwood, oak moss. Luca Turin describes it as "a carnation floral, so prim and proper it feels almost disapproving." He gives it an "adequate" rating, while his co-author, Tania Sanchez tags it as "disappointing."

I agree. This modern reformulation of the original 1934 creation is dull and lifeless.

First Edit: Just bought a one ounce unopened vintage bottle and the scent is an entirely different experience than the reformulation. A burst of sharp muguet and carnation announces itself and eventually quiets down to a medley of "honeyed" wildflowers. Delicious. Seek out the vintage in the rectangular bottle with painted flowers on the stopper top.