Fleurs de Rocaille (1934)
by Caron

Very light, undistinguished floral medley of rose, jasmine, violet, lily of the valley, musk, cedar, sandalwood, oak moss. Luca Turin describes it as "a carnation floral, so prim and proper it feels almost disapproving." He gives it an "adequate" rating, while his co-author, Tania Sanchez tags it as "disappointing."

I agree. This modern reformulation of the original 1934 creation is dull and lifeless.

02 May, 2013

For the duchesses' symposiums at Court. I don't exactly remember whether Al Pacino was talking about Fleur or Fleurs de Rocaille in its notorious Scent of Woman but i'm sure about the identity of the fragrance i tested and this one is the older Fleurs de Rocaille, a fragrance which an older seller gave me as a gift as soon as i purchased nearby its decrepit shop a 100 ml Marte Arte Battistoni for €25,00. So lucky am i, and so patient as an olfactory investigator ready to rake the old decrepit shops around the world. I tested the one in the old packaging far different from the modern niche one and i'm almost sure it was the vintage, vintage version. What to say? Absolutely hard to wear nowadays with its old-school cologny vibe but timeless for sure. This is an ethereal fragrance, celestial, cool, conservative and gentle as a natural whiff carring out a victorian garden floral early riser aroma. I detect the otherworldly aldehydes airy/powdery touch for sure, perceive the bergamot, the lemony vibe, the astringent herbs and obviously the complicated floral bouquet with all those "magistrally stuffy" nuances of ylang-ylang, muguet, rose/jasmine and violet. Many other sharp floral nuances (carnation and geranium overall) whirl over the woody (sandalwood-cedarwood) base and the juice holds on to be sharp (despite hints of perfectly balanced rounding amber/musk providing faint soapiness/powderiness) and natural till the end. I do not detect a sweet or mellow fruity presence in the blend for sure. Probably a minimal hint of civet closes the round in order to bind its action with a vintage connection of aldehydes, hesperides and patchouli. I have this extremely classic fragrance in my collection now and i'm proud of it.

29 November, 2012

Long ago I actually bought this perfume. At that time I felt that it was fresh & complex, distinguished!

But I began to dislike the lily of the valley note that seems to become acidly metallic on my skin....nooooooo, not for me....

23 June, 2012

I have been wanting to smell FLEURS DE ROCAIILE since I watched Scent of A Woman in the 1992. Nearly 2 decades later, I have finally acquired a little of it in parfum extrait.

Quite simply, this is an aldehydic floral done right. There is a slight animalic tone to the opening but nothing I would describe as 'poop'. Perhaps the vintage version is much more animalic? Anyway kudos to Ernest Daltroff for achieving such a fine balance. On some days, the rose or the carnation gets a little more airtime but often it graces the air like a refined floral bouquet. I find it timeless and quite elegant, just perfect for a lady.

07 September, 2011

The classic icon of a stylized bouquet of rock garden flowers says it all from the electric blue tulips to the lip stick pink daisies, a multi faceted floral/amber parfum of immense beauty & complex construction. My recently opened flacon of 'extrait' from the early fifties has kept remarkably well, like a genie locked in his lamp this golden hued amber juice yearns to be liberated from it's crystal prison with the sole purpose of bestowing fragrant wishes upon those who would seek to sample one of Caron's most treasured jewels.This Ernest Daltroff creation is a sumptuous affair receiving similar recognition & acclaim also afforded to many of his earlier works including 'Bellodgia, 'Narcisse Noir' & 'Tabac Blonde', a symphonic opus masterly constructed with high quality absolutes, essences & raw materials all cleverly fixed & bolstered by powerful synthetics considered novel and innovative even 10 years after the launch of Chanel's No.5 & Arpege by Lanvin. I appreciate the floralcy in Fleurs de Rocaille, violette, lilac, lily of the valley and a gorgeous spiced carnation/rose effect similar to the theme in 'Bellodgia', no animalic undertones detected apart from a slight hint of civet, drying down with a warm lactonic ambery base counter balanced by cool cedar & sandalwood. Fleurs de Rocaille could be perceived as being dated, slightly stuffy and reserved by some, I have found this Grand Dame from Caron thoroughly charming and deserving of it's place in classic perfumery.

27 August, 2011

(Pure Parfum Review)

Rose Perfeccion!

Hints of jasmine, carnation, rose, violet and lily of the valley are evident, but everything is so well blended, it's like being in a victorian garden.

This scent is a delicate, powdery floral, a great example of high quality French Fragrances.

On my skin this is more ylang-ylang and violet than carnation or jasmine.

My only regret is that this fragrance wears VERY close to the skin, but at least the scent doesn't disappear.


Fleurs de Rocaille is an absolute masterpiece.

26 January, 2011