My review is for the vintage formulation. Well, testing this historical Caron's pearl on skin you can catch immediately what an artistic, temperamental and natural creation actually means. Yes, a really botanical (multifaceted) hyper classy and lush piece of aromatic artistry. I detect by soon an unbelievably majestic almondy-minty eliotrope flanked by a touch of decadent bergamot, by a "carnal" (I mean realistic, rooty, indolic, grassy, lymphatic, "fragrant" and musky) mimosa, white resinous patterns (opoponax?), soapy fruitiness and vanilla allover encompassed by a dust of woody-musky talk (with accents of violet powder) and powdery tonka. To be sincere I'm not able to "isolate" the black currant while I detect a sort of undistinguished balmy soapiness with fruity accents. There is also something prickly under my nose (black pepper?) seemingly associated with eliotrope (with more than vague Etro Heliotrope's nuances- in a less almondy way) and resinous dissonant "white/yellow" floral pollen. I detect too a sort of "chamomile-like" (the typical mimosa's feel) pollen presence (resinous and vaguely waxy) and this is the main trait of the aroma joined by a sheer eliotropic presence. The outcome is majestic, royal and exotic in a hyper luxurious way (yes a la Mitsouko or Chamade). Caron Farnesiana is pure olfactory poetry.
23rd November, 2014 (last edited: 01st January, 2017)
Caron Farnesiana EDP - this is pleasant, but is less gourmand than the parfum concentration. The opening is more powdery and floral, with a more noticeable retro thing. Then the powdery part goes, the mimosa shows it's almond nuances and is joined by a pleasant vanilla and opoponax base. It's lovely, but i still favor the marzipan wonderfullness which is the parfum.
The vintage early version of Farnesiana is a botanical majesty: a powerful, realistic, opulent, classy floral scent, with warm, earthy pollen flowers (mimosa, heliotrope, jasmine), at the same time carnal and raw, but soapy and aristocratic, with a base of irresistibile vanilla and tonka. Not much else: a tight, compact, rich bouquet, colourful and invigorating like a nap in a flowers' shop, inebriating and romantic, dark and deep, classic and almost conventional but with the greatest quality standards, and a wide and rich harmony of notes. As Turin correctly notes in his Guide, surely a powerful scent – I've applied a tiny bit on my wrist, and it's like if I bathed in it. I do not know the subsequent formulations of Farnesiana, which I am given to understand are quite bad (not a surprise), but the vintage version is breathtaking, surely deserving its place in the Olympus of great neoclassic floral scents. Finally, a perfect drydown: long-lasting, cozy, soapy and discreet, velvety and still elegant and aromatic, just more plushy and light. Marvelous!
A perfect blend of mimosa and heliotrope -soft, warm, vanilla-like and only slightly sweet. One of Caron's best- this one from 1947.
Other reviewers have found notes of: Begamot, Jasmine, Lilac, Musk, Almond, Anise, Opoponax, Violet, Muguet - but I only detect the two above notes and they are enough for me.
A very feel good scent when all is right with the world or when you intend to change the world by wearing it.
Mimosas, with their beautifully fragile yellow flowers and their powdery sweet scent, have always been one of those plants whose only sight and smell are enough to lift my mood. The opening of Farnesiana finally made me understand why many people, when asked about mimosa scent, say “it stinks”! Here, the initial blast of green, almost mentholated notes and a sweet, crunchy bergamot note come along with the pungent, slightly putrid, wet cardboard undertones of mimosas and its close relative, cassie fragrance. The result is an interestingly shifting, plasticky smell that reminds me of …dolls’ skin. In a few minutes, though, the mimosa issue is over, to give place to the most delicious almond- anise- heliotrope accord, so often found in fragrances but never perfectly balanced as it is here. The drydown is dominated by the sweet, cool powderiness of opoponax and vanilla. My only concern with Farnesiana Eau de Parfum is its relatively poor longevity, only a couple of hours on my skin, although a feathery sillage hovers much longer on clothes. A tender, elegant fragrance, ideal for end of winter and early spring days.