Perfume Directory

Poivre (1954)
by Caron


Poivre information

Year of Launch1954
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 104 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerMichel Morsetti
PerfumerErnest Daltroff
PackagingFélicie Bergaud
Parent CompanyAles Group

About Poivre

Poivre is a feminine perfume by Caron. The scent was launched in 1954 and the fragrance was created by perfumers Ernest Daltroff and Michel Morsetti. The bottle was designed by Félicie Bergaud

Poivre fragrance notes

Reviews of Poivre

Genre: Woody Oriental

I understand that Poivre was once a peppery carnation, but given that carnation is most often approximated by a blend of rose and clove, and that eugenol (the principal “clove” compound,) is now highly regulated, the current Poivre Parfum is basically a woody rose doused in black pepper. Unfortunately, the soapy rose at Poivre Parfum’s core rates among the most vile and impoverished I’ve encountered.

Indeed, in light of Caron’s own incense-laden, peppered rose masterpiece, Parfum Sacré, Poivre’s existence is inexplicable. Is it retained merely to demonstrate the brilliance of Parfum Sacré? Or is it offered as an alternative for those who admire the woody rose-and-pepper idea, but want something much less good than Parfum Sacré? Beats me.

The drydown, by the way, is simply putrid. Do yourself a favor, and avoid it.
23rd June, 2014
I bought this in extrait form in Paris and it struck me as the most masculine of the urn perfumes. Upon wearing it repeatedly, however, the clove overtook the floral aspect and it seemed that the fragrance was ill-blended. I persisted, believing that Caron intended for this fragrance to "unfold" rather than be the dentist office oil of clove it was. I was never able to smell beyond the perhaps floral sweetened clove to pick up the namesake peppercorn.

Inspired by the idea of the scent, and somewhat of a dabbler novice perfumer, I was able to create my own version of what I thought this fragrance should have been. Carnation absolute, tincture of star anise and white peppercorn, pimento essential oil, essential oil of black peppercorn, tons of jasmine grandiflorum absolute, exaltolide musk, true mysore sandalwood supported by sandalore, and then a careful hand at adding the aromachemical eugenol, which Caron tripped with. I found that eugenol was less medicinal, muddy, and sweeter than pure clove bud essential oil. I love the perfume I created. Caron's inspiration does count for something.
05th October, 2012
Bay Rhum - it's been around for centuries - a mixture of clove and bay that men have used for aftershave splash since barbershop days.

This is all it is - and it would be the most expensive bay rhum you ever bought if you succumb to Caron's pricing.

Try the very inexpensive versions Caswell Massey offers - the effect will be the same and your pocket book will thank you.
22nd July, 2012
Cloves! Clove gum, clove cigarettes (though there's no smoke in this scent), and yes - red hots as other reviewers have said. And the peppery floral note of carnation, too. Poivre opens with a spicy, peppery bang - a big red-gold wallop of scent, very vintage and lush in character.

For all its brass and trumpets at the start, Poivre's dry down is very mellow, warm and familiar. Soothing, even. Makes me think of cinnamon sticks (and again, cloves) in a kitchen spice cabinet.

It strikes me as quite unisex, and I think a man could wear it easily.

Neutral rating simply because it's not something I think I would reach to wear again. But if you are looking for cloves, pepper and spice in a fragrance - this fits the bill.

Hanunani - thanks to you for sending me a decant to try!
03rd November, 2010
(Review 2010)
Oh well, I got a sample of this with my Tabac Blond. Upon application I get slight shifts from clove and pepper to only clove, later clove and a hint of incense, but mainly clove as the main star. It is certainly nicely done and I can compare it with the essential oil of clove (bud), which I have at home, which is on the other hand CHEAP to buy.
Coincidently, one day after sampling this, we were invited to a bbq in the middle of the wood and in order to repel mosquitos I made a solution half clove oil and half almond oil (clove oil alone is too aggressive on the skin). It worked very efficiently, but also smelled very similar. Is this how you want to smell when wearing perfume? I also think it smells VEEEERY outdated.

(Review 2014)
Poivre has at least three faces. The first I encountered is described above. The second is the one I acquired from Caron in 2012/13 and I have to say it seems to have become more cinnamon-y and consequently sweeter at cost of the sharp clove-y bite. Quel dommage! I think of it as a perfect, nicely balanced perfume for the holiday season with medium longevity, however. The original Poivre was a rather different perfume. Think of it as Or et Noir with more clove-y and peppery bite! Nice, but in all three versions I find it lacks the Caron refinedess und uniqueness. One way, it smells like straight-up clove essential oil, or with sweet cinnamon thrown in or again rather similar to Or et Noir without reaching its class. My recommendation today is to get Coup de Fouet (the EdT version), which despite all other statements, is still available from Caron directly in limited distribution (it comes in the 125 ml Pour un Homme etc. flacon). Coup de Fouet's initial blast is quite something, energising and powerful. There is, at the benefit of the whole composition, a flowery geranium note in the mix. The drydown is rather longlived, albeit redux, mainly a clove affair, which becomes slightly tiring in the end, but worth the trip.
30th June, 2010 (last edited: 22nd June, 2014)
I have to admit one thing for this perfume!!!It's a clover-spiced dynamite!!!Long-Long lasting scent with deep warm aroma!The most unique and unusual woody spiced perfume i have ever tried!It deserves to be in the top five list of Oriental woodies of all time!!!
*I sampled this scent thanks to MiMi Gardenia *
28th May, 2010

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