*** This mini-review is of the vintage parfum ***
Wearing Must de Cartier is an experience not too dissimilar to eating a Blumenthal signature dessert. They both boast layers after surprising layers of blissfully rendered ingredients.
The blending is smooth and I find any attempt to decipher its multiple notes a futile if not particularly useful exercise. It smells sweet in a bitter-almondy kind of way, rich but not heady, featuring warm ambery depths interspersed with subtle floral and resinous nuances.
Comparisons to oriental scent cousin CK Obsession are apt though the Cartier arrived on the scene four years earlier, prowls closer to the skin as a parfum and contains one key element that in my mind makes all the difference: civet.
Can a man wear this? Absolutely. But in all honesty I'd rather enjoy it up close and very personal on a woman.
This magnificent fragrance can be described in one word: PERFECT!MUST de CARTIER is classified as a luxurious scent and one of the sexiest,sophisticated and original scents ever,that it reminds me a classic movie star with hypnotic eyes like Ingrid Bergman or Audrey Hepburn.this sure makes people heads turn. Rich,Deep,Heavy,Oriental,Complex, Intoxicating, Strong,Timeless and Wonderfully Sexy Deep scent.
It is unique combination of fruit notes like peach, pineapple,lemon and also aldehydes,flowers like rose,jasmine,orchid and ylang-ylang with musk and leather and a hint of amber and a dose of civet make a glorious combination and it is unforgettable.in fact a base of varm vanilla,precious wood,amber and civet brings an air of sensuality to this feminine fragrance.
This one is a definite keeper.It is not a scent for the shy wallflower types,but the best for a assured, grown-up woman sure of her sensuality.MUST de CARTIER is an irresistible secret weapon just a small spray of this can ignite quite an evening. must have for any Special night and a must in every woman's closet bewitching.MUST de CARTIER and OPIUM and HABANITA MOLINARD are a lethal triangle in a femme fatale collection.
Longevity?Amazing on my skin.
Cartier's Must is an attempt to build an oriental fragrance on the basic formulations of Shalimar and Alliage, according to Roja Dove. Guerlain's Samsara in 1989 was to similarly refer to Must in its attempt at a modern oriental.
Top notes: Bergamot, Tangerine, Lemon, Peach, Rosewood, Galbanum, Mandarin, Neroli
Heart notes: Jasmine, Leather, Carnation, Ylang, Orris, Orchid, Rose, Jonquil, Lily
Base notes: Musk, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Tonka, Civet, Benzoin, Amber, Opopanax, Oakmoss
I found it to be a sharp, harsh oriental, as I found Samsara to be - two peas in an unpleasant pod.
Turin agrees with me, gives it only one star and dubs it "Russian chocolate," and not the good chocolate either. He dubs it "so indigestible that you could use it as an appetite suppressant…a dreadful thing."
Avoid this one.
The citrus-galbanum in the opening blends soon with a nice dark-green floral mix; I get mainly nice jasmine and a less convincing rose, but overall it is a nice blend, that is given a touch of musky spiciness further in the drydown. The hopes are high, but, alas, is soon collapses to remain very close to my skin from then on. The base sees a rather bland vanilla added, and the rest of the development is rather generic and faint, with a total longevity of about five hours on me. This is not bad, but not more than neutral.
I've owned both the vintage and the current formulation, and I can't recommend the newer version. The vintage opens soft and velvety and continues to deepen as it evolves. The reformulation is sharp, citrusy, and then settles into something that resembles the vintage notes. Overall, the newer one lacks depth. Go vintage!
A complex fragrance, so smoothly blended that I can't pick out individual notes. The woodiness is balanced by the florals, and the earthy base keeps it warm, subtle, and sensuous. Great sillage and longevity (over 12 hours)