Ma Griffe (1946)
by Carven

Ma Griffe is an excellent green chypre that I have been familiar with for years – I had a couple of aunts who wore this. I don't believe that the modern version smells as good as the one I remember – those reformulation issues, you know. This latest PDT version of Ma Griffe is still very nice, though. It opens with a strong aldehydic green – I get no florals in the opening, and I find the accord very refreshing and bright. It immediately settles down and soon the gardenia and jasmine emerge carrying with them their strong indole notes, and the indoles are definitely welcome in the mixture. The heart notes are quite floral but they manage to present themselves without becoming at all flowery. Of the florals, it is strongest with gardenia and ylang-ylang, and here, especially, is where the modern version of Ma Griffe isn’t as good as the original. Except for the assertive indoles, Ma Griffe is a rather delicate fragrance. It still has superior longevity, and remains charming and unique. (Edit of March 10, 2008 review.) 163

To me, this scent reminds me of my mom's friend who back in the late 50's was a model for Dior. She was a lovely woman and every time she came from France to visit, she would bring my mom a bottle of Diorling and Ma Griffe. My mom wore Me Griffe all of the time. I remember it to be a very pleasing, clean kind of a scent and never "over bearing". Things were different back then and I am sure that Ma Griffe has been changed from its original formulation.

I read White Oleandar, in which Astrid (main character) idolizes and befriends a wealthy, elegant, old world sort of beautiful prostitute next door. Olivia (this prostitute) wears Ma Griffe, and what it means in the novel is profound. Fitch makes the scent seem almost magical. Ever since, I have wanted Ma Griffe (along with Penhaligan's Victorian Posy, the perfume Olivia gave Astrid) for my very own. So when I saw this on the internet at the bargain basement price of $21.95, I had to have it.

I have heard it has been reformulated for the U.S. market. This is the version I purchased. Even though I hear the original is much better, I am very pleased with this one. At first, I wanted it only for my collection, but now I wear it all the time. This has been my experience.

The bottle is very nice, much nicer than the picture on the internet. In reality, The liquid is a very faint green with a green glass platform that makes the entire base reflect green. It is glass while the top is plastic, and in the center of the cap is an encased riveted gold rod with a C (for carven) on top.

The smell was a bit surprising to me. It is woodsy, mossy, a tad soapy... as if you were in the woods somewhere on a rich estate in Europe sometime in the distant past. Think Atonement (movie or book).Then it dries to a softer, more powdery fragrance... less sharp, more intimate and refined, like the Victorian Era. The base smells like a secret. I'm really not sure if I could explain it any other way. In a few days, it was a new favorite.

I'm not sure if this has happened to anyone else, but I'm extremely sensitive to smell. For some reason, the smell of this sharpens color for me in the sun. I can see color in a much more vivid, observant light on a sunny day, although it seems to have no effect on me indoors. It also calmed me down quite a bit. I had been stressed all day, and when I put this on, it all melted away.

A great thing about this scent is the fact that it has all natural fragrances of "essential oils", which means it won't give you a headache. You know that feeling you get when the person next to you has on way too much cologne? This won't happen with this scent since the ingredients are natural: you won't repel people, even if you take a bath in it. Well, maybe if you take a bath in it. But you get the idea.

Also, the boyfriend likes it. He can't smell me enough when I'm wearing this:] And why do we wear perfume, other than to attract other people?

This scent is also nice in every situation, every age, every setting. It's subtle yet unforgettable, elegant, and independent in a demure and relaxed, unoffensive sort of way. To me, it says the wearer is completely comfortable being exactly what they are. Ma Griffe in french means "my signature". And this is exactly what this scent is.

This smelled like a mens bathroom on me. I'm not even joking, this was the conclusion of more then one. It was horrid. It actualy made me choke throughout.

It would smell cinnamon & good for about 5 seconds & then go back to that sage & aldehyde mess. I ordered a vintage bottle, it might be off, but pee & cheap cleansing products is not a classic to me.
I will try this again though!

This one took a little while to grow on me. At first sniff, I thought it smelled like some cheap hairspray I used to use in high school. Somewhere on the 4th or 5th wearing, though . . . WOW!

I purchased a small decant just to try but I think I'll be getting a full bottle soon. Very green and fresh on me, with good persistance. A nice change of pace from the fruity florals that seem to dominate my workplace. So old it smells new again.

This scent conjures up vivid memories of my grandparents beach house, so how could I not like it? Delightful childhood summer memories aside, though, it's a bit too powdery on me. Obviously, this is a summer scent for me, but a spritz in the air can evoke warm weather even when it's cold out.