No. 5 (1921)
by Chanel

A rather antiquated opening of aldehydes and neroli which doesn't quite score with my nose. While the progression is expectedly complex, NO.5 grows so powdery that I get the impression of being in a cloud of talcum powder. Still I must say this is a sophisticated fragrance which should be experienced from afar because up close, the wrinkles start to show, revealing No.5's true age. But when the drydown appears I find myself eating my own words; now I know why screen siren Marilyn Monroe wore No.5 exclusively to bed...

*** This review is of the parfum, circa 2009 ***

This is for the EDT formulation, circa 2009:

At first spritz I get fantastic aldehydes infused seamlessly with neroli and bergamot. A peach note is there as well. The peach is peachy-fruit, not peachy-sweet/predictable. This is infused with a pleasurable iris note. Beautiful rich Grasse jasmine comes to the fore and lingers and permeates into the woods below.

Much later in the dry down I get a friendly and beautifully warm creaminess of sandalwood, vetiver, amber, oak moss, patchouli and nicely done vanilla. There are other things as well but I cannot quite tease them out. I can still detect that beautiful Grasse jasmine. I am really enjoying the character of the base, with the longevity enduring well into the next day.

This abstract scent is thoroughly enchanting and never tires.

If you are a fan of the Parfum formulation but until now, never understood how the two could smell of such different eras (Parfum 1920s, EDT 1950s/1960s), I strongly recommend a revisit. It’s clear that the EDT has been faithfully restored to the spirit of the original Parfum. I now consider this a long-term keeper.


This is for the Parfum formulation:

Sharper, richer aldehydes and neroli are immediate and engaging. The heady neroli and aldehyes are infused with a bergamot note. Rich Grasse jasmine begins to gain your attention and increases in richness. The neroli and aldehydes are seeping seamlessly through the jasmine and rose below it. The neroli and iris are still linking throughout.

In the dry down I get a similar experience to the current formulation of No 5 EDT (see above) but more tightly structured and richer. There is also a hint of the rich neroli experienced earlier. One difference though is that the longevity of the Parfum formulation on me is fleeting and am left wondering where this enchanting scent has gone.

I am grateful that this masterpiece has endured time and fad to be enjoyed today as it was intended.

When I was in my late teens I wore No. 5 eau de cologne (I think it was edc). It came in the simple, clear rectangular bottle with the black screw cap. It has always been my benchmark for how No. 5 *should* smell because that is the version I first fell in love with. Today's No. 5 edt and edp are only distantly related to that. Years later, I had a hard time getting to know No. 5 edt. I didn't get what was so great about it (compared to what I had known). Now that I've been able to separate my mind from past expectations, I find I love it. Or rather, it loves me now. The first few seconds are pure bliss. As it begins to dry down it goes a bit cold, metallic, and flat, but only for a minute or two. And I actually enjoy that stage, too, because it's interesting and brief. At times it has turned thin and sour, as AnnS noted. Lately, however, I find I find it warms up and sweetens, and I'm wondering whether that is due to diet and/or hormones. I've been told that jasmine will smell different depending on the wearer's diet - whether it actually smells different on the skin or diet/hormones affect the wearer's perception of the fragrance, I can't say. Personally, I have found that jasmine dominant fragrances do seem to smell differently at different times. Anyway, for whatever reason, the edt is now working for me. I've worn it to bed and awoken during the night wondering, "what is that incredibly sweet smell?" It was No. 5 edt long, long into drydown. It's a strange fragrance, sometimes it loves you, and sometimes it doesn't. I'm not as fond of the edp as it's a bit too powerful for me now, though I think it's lovely, too. I've noticed many people say they favor one formulation or another. For me, it's the edt. I will probably purchase the parfum at some point, which I'm looking forward to trying, and I've heard the bath/body products are divine-smelling.

Loved it when I was in college, but now it no longer suits me. It is very complex, with many notes. I love the scent when it comes from the bottle, but not on my skin.

This review is going to deal with the Parfum No. 5. I have sampled all the concentration so far - EdT, EdP and Eau Premiere, but I think the true, original formula deserves to be reviewed first.

First of all, I am very delighted to possess the parfum. It smells history (whatever this means). I do not intend to write anything ground-breaking about No. 5 since in its nearly 90 years of being everything has been said. I would just like to sum up impressions on it, sort of verification.

The parfum opens in a fresh, eau-de-cologne manner but definately thicker!, and I find it very delicious. It is lemony and clean, and since I recently smelled pure oil of ylang-ylang, I can say that there is ylang-ylang too. Not much later the jasmine-rose mix emerges. It is simply fantastic and gets dirtier with time. That is because of the jasmine. I do not know how a Mai rose (the sort used in No. 5) smells, it is said to be lighter than a Bulgarian rose. Going further towards the drydown the parfum gets more filthy. I find this stage at times stunning, at other times I am not very comfortable about it. But this can be the skin chemistry. The only disadvantage for me seems the sillage. After about 3 hours I am not sure whether there is still something of No. 5 on me.

Now I would like to say something about the colourful imageries about fragrances, in particular about No. 5. People say it smells of minks, pearls and so on... Well, this is a very personal interpretation, and do not expect, you will be covered with a mink coat after dabbing No. 5. Therefore I support a "neutral" kind of describing a scent. Comparisons with mink are truly amusing, but it does not contribute to your own perception! After all, the juice within the bottle is what counts. And since not many of us have had the opportunity to smell an absolute of Mai rose or real Sandalwood, I find it even more difficult to rely on a particular review.

What I can highly appreciate about No. 5 is that it seems to perfectly match the idea of Mlle Chanel - No. 5 is a clean (meaning not cloying) parfum spreading the smell of no particular flower - this blurred smell is due to the aldehydes. The second advantage is the highly acclaimed quality of the ingredients in No. 5. I blindly take it for granted (at this stage) and feel happy about it.

Last words - 5 stars for No. 5!

I am a big aldehyde lover, and am always very sad that I just can't make No 5 work for me - something in the drydown sours on my skin, particularly in the edt, which I prefer over the edp. The opening of the edt is glorious, and shows why No 5 is such a timeless and iconic classic. The edt and edp are different fragrances, though still with the characteristic No 5 scent. The edp tends to smell a bit more synthetic than the edt. I am able to wear the lotion and cream though, which keeps a sublte No 5 aroma without causing the problems in the drydown. Sometimes I layer the No 5 lotion with No 5 eau Premier, which works nicely. I highly recommend testing to find out which version works best. For me, thankfully, I can at least wear the eau Premier version which is great in its own right. Unlike others I am not turned off by the fantastic aldehyde opening, but just something in the drydown.