Cuir de Russie (1924)
by Chanel

I love the complexity of Chanel classics and this is no exception. Greener and more floral than contemporary favorite Cuir Pleine Fleur, CUIR DE RUSSIE is a gloriously beautiful leather-inspired scent which finds a rightful place among such illuminaries as Chanel No. 5, Guerlain's Shalimar, Lanvin's Arpège and Patou's Joy. It seems to me the 1920s was indeed a golden era for fine fragrances.

I do not know how the original smelt but this is so good I only feel safe enough to wear it for him.

I'm forever grateful to my friend Jimmy for introducing me to this fragrance. It is really quite special. It has a deep, sensual warmth that gives the feel of slipping into a fine leather coat. The musk, leather and spice definately entice. Want to buy a reserve bottle in case the rumors are true that they will stop making the perfume and only offer the EDT.

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel has all of the history that Guerlain does as a House and it also had its early 20th-century genius of scent in Ernest Beaux. In 1924 he created Cuir de Russie, what was daring about this was he chose to use leather as the center of a women's scent for the first time and created a classic. Flash forward to 1983 and Jacques Polge takes over at Chanel and looks to revive this Ernest Beaux classic as one of "Les Exclusifs". Cuir de Russie had to be reformulated because the birch tar that Beaux used in the original was no longer allowed as an ingredient. The beauty here is Polge shows he is up to the task of restoring a masterpiece to life by understanding how to hold the previous structure. At the top there is a burst of aldehydes and jasmine that tickle the nose. They are like an amuse bouche for the nose as the animalic business of Cuir de Russie comes in straightaway as the leather comes in and stays at first underneath the jasmine and then in combination. There is a moment of pure olfactory bliss as the sweet jasmine and the sweet animalic leather reach a balance that is just magic to my nose. It is a fleeting moment as the leather takes over the heart of this, rich and supple. As this develops further into the base I get a little of the clean lines of cedar, some warm amber and a hint of vanilla but mostly it stays leathery and gorgeous. I've had the opportunity to compare the original Beaux composition with Polge's and outside of what seems to be a slightly more intense leather phase in the heart Polge's reformulation is a smashing success at recreating a masterpiece of perfumery. One could only wish some of the other Houses would treat their classics with such respect.

Reviewers' descriptions of this scent always alarm me and I keep sniffing my wrist to try to make some connection - plastic? manure? danger? naughty? improper? urinous?! Huh. Well, these sensations do not apply to my bottle of Cuir de Russie, anyway.

As a vegetarian I should be repelled by the thought or smell of leather, and am; this thankfully smells like no leather I have ever encountered.

It does smell rich, warm, sensual and wonderful. It evokes the same feelings in me as Hermes Amber Narguile. It is beautiful - and I feel wrapped in a cloud of privilege and pleasure when wearing it.

OMG!!! What have I been missing? Chanel used to really not excite me...not even No. 5, but now,it seems my chemistry and/or my nose have changed. I absolutely adore this intoxicating and perfectly blended leather chypre...and it loves me!! Who would have ever thought? Unfortunate that it is now officially Spring and this is definitely a Fall/Winter scent. What a rich, wonderful ride she is. I am definitely buying a bottle. Need to try the EDP and extrait, too. I only have a small samples of the EDT... I can not expand on the wealth of information and kudos other reviewers have so eloquently stated. I can't stop smelling myself...help!!