Cuir de Russie (1924)
by Chanel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel has all of the history that Guerlain does as a House and it also had its early 20th-century genius of scent in Ernest Beaux. In 1924 he created Cuir de Russie, what was daring about this was he chose to use leather as the center of a women's scent for the first time and created a classic. Flash forward to 1983 and Jacques Polge takes over at Chanel and looks to revive this Ernest Beaux classic as one of "Les Exclusifs". Cuir de Russie had to be reformulated because the birch tar that Beaux used in the original was no longer allowed as an ingredient. The beauty here is Polge shows he is up to the task of restoring a masterpiece to life by understanding how to hold the previous structure. At the top there is a burst of aldehydes and jasmine that tickle the nose. They are like an amuse bouche for the nose as the animalic business of Cuir de Russie comes in straightaway as the leather comes in and stays at first underneath the jasmine and then in combination. There is a moment of pure olfactory bliss as the sweet jasmine and the sweet animalic leather reach a balance that is just magic to my nose. It is a fleeting moment as the leather takes over the heart of this, rich and supple. As this develops further into the base I get a little of the clean lines of cedar, some warm amber and a hint of vanilla but mostly it stays leathery and gorgeous. I've had the opportunity to compare the original Beaux composition with Polge's and outside of what seems to be a slightly more intense leather phase in the heart Polge's reformulation is a smashing success at recreating a masterpiece of perfumery. One could only wish some of the other Houses would treat their classics with such respect.

Chanel Cuir de Russie parfum

On first application from a dabber sample, I smell what seems to be strongly chemical leather tanning compounds. This type of leather scent is very refined, and has a sort of "new car" edge to it. Mingling quietly with the leather are light florals, some powder, and hints of manure, hay and antiseptic (castoreum) which gives a horse stable quality to the leather. Also lurking below the surface is some smoke which smells like tarry, plastic resin. It is not unpleasant like some fragrances that smell like burning plastic, but this is probably the birch tar note which gives a slight petrochemical slant to the leather. I am pretty sure there are some aldehydes also, as I smell some very faint soapyness. By far, though, the smoky tar note is the most prominent, and separates CdR from the more castoreum-heavy leather scents which are evocative of leather horse tack and saddles. Despite the barnyard quality of the castoreum, the birch tar makes the fragrance seem more industrialized, such as the smell of a freshly made pair of gentleman's boots or fine ladies' gloves.

The florals take on more of a supporting role in this fragrance in the beginning and middle stages. I am almost sure there is some iris in CdR, as there is a faint powder note which increases through the development. There is also a urinous note that becomes more intense. It seems to be very much a part of the leather, but could also be a sharp, indolic floral such as jasmine. As the parfum unfolds slowly during the middle stage, I also notice a creamy and spicy wood accord that reminds me of a similar accord in Bois des Iles or Egoiste. It is not a particularly recognizable wood, but is soft and warm, somewhat like sandalwood mixed with subtle amounts of cinnamon.

In the drydown, the floral and powder become much stronger, and the leather is mostly faded. The soft and spicy wood persists also, but the powder is the main note. Although there is really no overt leather note at this point, the floral and powder continue to evoke the memory of leather. The sharp white floral note seems most instrumental in maintaining the leather sensibility--it has been present throughout the whole development of the fragrance, and has morphed in character depending on the varying contexts of the other notes. In the drydown, the floral note is considerably softer, having lost much of its urinous edge. In the late drydown, CdR is mostly sweet vanilla, powder and perhaps a sweet musk, with a whisper of the floral and creamy wood notes still remaining. The leather is completely gone at this stage, about 4 hours after application.

With a fragrance like this, I fail to understand why Chanel tries to limit distribution. There is nothing particularly dated nor any age/gender limitations. CdR is a beautiful, classic, well-composed scent that seems appropriate for any age, man or woman, and probably any occasion, too. I am not a leather fragrance collector, but I think if I could only have one leather fragrance in my collection, CdR would be it.

Not everyone can wear Cuir de Russie! I have been wearing it since the 1960s when leather, wool, and being a lady with a naughty side was a plus! I like the woodsy expensive leather smell it has....it is my signature scent and I wear it daily! This scent is rare and unique.

I find Cuir de Russie to be MORE feminine than Caron's Tabac Blond, or rather elegant, civilized and understated. I could envision Catherine Deneuve wearing this in Belle du Jour, but never Tabac Blond, for instance. This is a soft leather with a soft floral veil, a beautiful skin scent that wears like a quiet, luminous atmosphere. I would enjoy wearing this anytime , anywhere. Beautiful and appropriate without being boring or necessarily conventional. My very favorite leather fragrance to date.

deep and warm fragrance.
Very sensual and feminine.

Stays a loooong time on the skin.

It is a perfect fragrance rich and wonderful...

I think Vibert says it perfectly about this fragrance having a perfect balance of glamour and danger.

I feel it's tipped more towards danger, adventure and a love of masculine things (horses and their saddles, cigar smoke, classic citrusy cologne). I heard this was even MORE animalic originally... Wow, I can't believe this was the kind of scents worn by women then... and can only imagine the kind of wonderfully classy and adventurous women that would wear them today.

I wouldn't mind wearing this, but it personally feels strange to smell like this just from a bottle because the scent is so very very authentic smelling to me. I feel like I'm wearing some kind of costume, that is damned convincing but if I were to be brutally honest with myself could not wear more than once a year. Unless you are an equestrian outdoorsman with royal blood lineage, expect this scent to make a (potential over-) statement.