Bois des Îles (1926)
by Chanel

This review is under revision.

Perfume transcends the intangible mystery of time. And just like the presence of the mysterious time traveler, it enters our life suddenly and disappears without warning. Perhaps this was why when I saw her I smelled a phantom breath of Bois des Îles: a perfume that silently entered my consciousness and whose beauty I was unable to appreciate years ago because of its antiquated aldehydic moments and the vagueness of its intentions.

Years later, my reflections on Bois des Îles have been refined and clarity is starting to bring me more pleasure from this jus treasured within the crystal cut flacon. Without taking away from its mystery I can enjoy it and indulge in discerning the notes as they lazily dance on my skin. First come bergamot and aldehydes, which take some time to fade away. They are oily and bring to mind the somewhat uric aspect of sandalwood, and the somewhat sharp (at first) nuances of heady ylang ylang. As the aldehydic cloud settles, Bois des Îles becomes deliciously warm, with the spiciness of dry ginger and nutmeg. Sandalwood embraces the perfume throughout its evolution. Although there are floral notes in the heart (namely jasmine and rose), ylang ylang is the only one that truly stands out. The others are blended to complement the sandalwood and ylang ylang (smoothing and rounding its sharpness) and bridge from top to base and the crisp-woody notes of vetiver. And in the final movement choreographed on my skin, the sweetness of vanilla absolute, tonka and benzoin feels like a silky caress of soft lips and warm sand.

One of Chanel's best fragrances ever. Deserves much more publicity than the (non-existent) promotion it currently receives. Every bit as fascinating as the No. 5 that clogs the Chanel counters in all department stores worldwide. More subtle, more flavorful, deeper, more attractive--and more flattering to wear, too.
I smelled the gingerbread right away. Sure, Bois des Iles is about woods and florals, but the effect, in its entirety is warm, spicy-sweet, like a faint breeze carring the scent gingerbread from the oven on a cold day. This is better than the sandalwood-gingerbread of Bulgari Omnia because it does without with the annoying black pepper topnote. Bois des Iles is superb sandalwood, a love-at-first-sniff experience for me. I cannot speak more highly about it.

This is a very beautiful, complex fragrance; very elegant, classy, and sophisticated; discreet and delicious: one of those fragrances that -- as others have described -- is hard to pick out any one note all are so beautifully blended. If you like woody florals w/ a little spice and if you love sandlewood, you have to try a sample of this at least (I think I got mine at luckyscents.com or try perfumedcourt.com they might also carry it. The absolute only problem is that it doesn't seem to last on me; although today, it did I can even smell it now -- maybe it's the subtley that grows on me ... it's a toss up for me now between BDI and Sacre Bleu (which to me is VERY long lasting; somewhat sweeter; stronger in general). Confused at this point!

The sandalwood here renders all others inadequate. Bois de Iles is truly, one of the prettiest olfactory creations from Chanel ~ or from anyone for that matter! Take a look at the listed notes...I dare your nose to single out any of the flowers listed, I honestly don't think you can do it! Why, you ask? Simply because BdI is supremely & seamlessly crafted. It is THAT FINE! Two thumbs up!

Notes: (contrary to what the Basenotes notes pyramid says, gingerbread is not an actual note in Bois Des Iles)

Top: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, peach;
Middle: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, ylang-ylang, coriander;
Base: vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin, musk.

This review is of the EDT.

Created by the legendary Chanel head perfumer Ernest Beaux, a Russian immigrant, Bois Des Iles (Bdi) makes a strong case for importing Russians brain power and creativity! Bdi might be the best of Chanel, and one of the finest fragrances created. It’s a masterfully composed and perfectly balanced woody-gourmand fragrance. It makes most recent Chanels look like an embarrassment to the Chanel fragrance catalog. And yes its got that gingerbread/donut note thing going on, although I cant see anyone wearing this perfume perfection to a giggly carefree Dunkin’ donuts date…its far too suave for horny high-school first base encounters.

The most surprising thing about Bdi is that its more of a sandalwood fragrance than many fragrances that claim to be constructed around that note. From the more-cedar-than-sandalwood fragrances like Santal Noble, Tam Dao, etc., the cloying sweetness of Trumpers Sandalwood to the spicy sweet attack of Original Santal, Bois des Iles shows them all up with its superbly blended sandalwood note. A sparkling and smooth citrus (and slightly fruity) accord opens Bdi, and the medicinal yet cool vapors of sandalwood make one exclaim “Eureka! I found wood!”. The sandalwood is lent a comforting softness and approachability by a deft use of a floral heart.

Bois des iles is also (suprisingly) a very adept gourmand. It has a lingering "gingerbread" accord which is most prominent in the middle floral notes. It’s strange and captivating at the same time and is probably the result of a collision of the lingering ‘wood, the sweet florals and coriander. This spicy sweet accord inconjunction with the smooth sandalwood is woody nirvana. Its somewhat similar to Lutens Santal de Mysore, but unlike that fragrance, its less loud, more restrained, and far better balanced, i.e., the spices and (turkish) sweets dont bury the sandalwood six feet under. The cool sandalwood returns to the forefront in the base, and alongwith the vetiver, extends the longevity to way past the 7 hour mark.

If you like fine classic fragrances and/or are interested in experiencing one of the more impressive sandalwood fragrances on the market, Bois des iles should be at the top of your list. It also smells surprisingly contemporary - Ernest Beaux had set out to create a fragrance that bestowed a feminine character to the traditional masculine domain of dark woods. Little did he know that almost 80 years after its creation, this classic fragrance’s gingerbread note would represent the upper echelon of perfumery amidst the plethora of fruity, aquatic, and “gourmand” juices. Ah yea, that gingerbread note…..no, I can’t imagine Ted Kennedy wearing this one.