Reviews of Bois des Îles (1926)
by Chanel

This review is for the Parfum formulation.

Wow. Beaux never ceases to impress. What I smell is a scent that is integrated and very engaging.

I am first hit with a rich and voluptuous mix of notes that are gently blurred through the lens of a Beaux Aldehyde.

I detect a slight boozy note. I smell richly woven ylang, bitter almond, Grasse jasmine and sandalwood through woods and florals that make up this rich yet abstract image which this smell evokes. I think I can also detect a hint of incense?

Having experienced the EDT reformulation shortly after the original Parfum (as the Parfum now seems hard to source) I am only left wondering one thing. Why such an amazing and captivating scent, which could only show the house of Chanel in the best light, could be given such severe treatment. The current formulation is pedestrian and pale in comparison.

Where the original Parfum is voluptuous and elegant, the current EDT formulation is just another face in the crowd, it just happens to be wearing a 2.55 as it is trying to blend in and not say anything of any particular value.

In a world where fragrances tend to play like in-your-face rock music videos, Chanel's BOIS DES ILES performs more like a classical symphony from the likes of Beethoven, Bach or Rachmaninov. Some may even compare it to an opera. That this beautiful scent is nowhere near as successful as Chanel No. 5 borders on 'criminal'.

**** This review is of the EDT ****

Others before me have described Bois des Îles in accurate detail, and I see no need to retread that ground. I will say that to my nose Bois des Îles has much in common with its sibling Cuir de Russie, especially the prominent doughy iris root, the animalic civet, and the labdanum-tinged amber drydown. Perhaps I’m deluded, as I haven’t seen the observation made before, but I can’t escape the feeling that the two share some crucial DNA. I’ll even posit that whatever core features Bois des Îles and Cuir de Russie share account for the unparalleled sense of indulgent luxury they both express.

Bois des Îles is simply and without a doubt one of the most compelling wood-centered fragrances I know. I rank it alongside (the vintage) Santal Noble as the finest treatment of sandalwood that I’ve encountered. What more can I add? Only that this is a true classic, one of the few scents that every serious student of perfume must smell at least once in order to appreciate the full scope of olfactory art.

My absolute favorite perfume! Of course, my husband would say, "Every perfume you own is your 'absolute favorite'!" Maybe he is right. A favorite fragrance for each individual - and often fluctuating - mood. But no, seriously...this is a wonderful woodsy floral with perfect balance, and it's definitely at the very top of my list. I own many Chanel perfumes, and I find this to be the most wearable.

I had tried a sample of the newer formulation from the Les Exclusifs line and fell in love. Recently (maybe there is a god after all??) I found an older bottle of the EDT (a full and unused 3.4oz!! woohoo!) on ebay for less than $100. I'm comparing the two as I type, and I must say that the newer Les Exclusifs formulation is very similar but perhaps more flowery and less musky? The older bottle's color is definitely darker. The older formulation makes me think of my beloved Jicky with extra sandalwood and less possibility of offense due to civet overload.

Surprisingly I am enjoying the newer formulation a little more at the moment. Maybe it's because I had fallen too hard for my first whiff of the newer Bois Des Iles from my recent Exclusifs sampling. The iris is breathtaking in these newer formulations. One day I'll have to spring for one of those enormous 200ml bottles!

Definitely another must-have for me. Maybe I'm a Chanel Woman, after all. I think the ones I see most often and smell most often (No. 5 and Coco, primarily in my small twon) are just not "me", so I had given up. I'm so glad to have tried this and Cuir de Russie. I whole-heartedly agree with all those above who give a thumbs-up to this masterpiece. My only complaint (and maybe this is due to my sample being the EdT, is the longevity of each stage. I want it all to last a little longer, so I will be trying the EdP in the coming weeks.

Chanel Bois des Iles

To be a well-rounded individual one should experience the classics. Certainly that holds as true in perfume as it does in any of the other art forms. One set of these classics are the five Chanels created by Ernest Beaux in the 20's. The most recognized is No. 5. Bois des Iles is one of the other four scents created and it is as much a classic as No. 5 is to my nose. It starts off with the aldehydes which are No. 5's signature. This similarity is so strong I had to take a look at the bottle a second time to make sure I wasn't spraying No. 5 on me. The aldehydes in the EDT strength are as long lasting as any aldehydes I have ever had and one's tolerance for aldehydes, if you find them annoying, will be tested. I love the fizz and pop of them and most of the time they don't last long enough for me so this is a pleasant experience for me. There then comes a beautiful group of florals which join in starting with jasmine, joined by ylang-ylang, lily, and finally a soft rose. As the heart comes alive the signature note of Bois des Iles is the gingerbread accord present here. This is gingerbread cake as it comes off quite moist because it is paired with an almond note, I think that is what makes me think cake. The real star to my nose, of Bois des Iles, is the sandalwood base. The sandalwood is mixed with vetiver and a very light musk to make this one of my favorite sandalwood scents out there. Some of that is because it is slowly revealed over the course of the development of this scent on my skin and when it makes its appearance it brings this scent home beautifully. The sandalwood is what remains and it lasts for a very long time on me even in the EDT strength. It's nice to know that sometimes when you experience the classics you truly inderstand why they are classics.

I'm coming from the Ylang country: madagascar!
Bois des iles is exactly the smell of a little paradise island: Nosy Be ..gorgeous

Very lush blend of sandalwood and floral notes brightened by aldehydes, fruit notes, and citrus, and then richly anchored in woody resiny musk. Vetiver and benzoin contribute some of that richness. There seems to be a bit of amber, too, but that isn't in the original pyramid, and may be a modification of the recent reissue in the EdT strength Exclusifs de Chanel series. This can certainly be worn by a man, especially as a special-occasion evening scent. The florals and fruit notes are very well balanced by the woods and the darker resin and musk notes. Ernest Beaux was a genius, and his work is timeless.

at the very first meeting it is heavy but after sometime and after wearing a few times it is somehow very tempting. Jasmin vanilla almonds and tonka all make an old rich powdery complex that gives you confidence.

Bois des Iles EDC and Parfum Comparison

Left Arm: Chanel Bois des Iles Parfum
Right Arm: Chanel Bois des Iles EDT

I applied a good sized dab of the parfum, and two very wet sprays of the EDT in an effort to equalize the two somewhat. What I noticed immediately is that the EDT had much more prominent aldehydes in the top notes. The aldehydes also are in the parfum, but are either much less in concentration, or are eclipsed by the strength of the rest of the composition. In the EDT, the aldehydes are very similar to No.5, if not the same. I think I remember reading somewhere that somebody thought BdI EDT was like a combination of No.5 and Coco. I think I can understand this comparison--the No.5 aspect is form the aldehydes, and the Coco aspect is from the spicy undertones, barely perceptible at this stage. In comparison, the spices and woods are immediately present in the parfum, and the small amount of aldehydes gives it a touch of brightness.

I think I really doused myself on both arms. Either that, or the development is slow to unfold. It took quite a while for the aldehydes to burn off (about an hour). In the process, the EDT really blossomed. I smell very ripe peach, brandy, dark rose, clove, vanilla. When I don't try to discern the separate notes, I get the "gingerbread" effect that people talk about. To me it seems more like a rum spice cake, but I suppose that is what gingerbread is, in a way. The EDT is not as woody as the parfum, and it has a bit of that sourness that I noticed in 31 Rue Cambon. Some sweet powder is also starting to come out.

The parfum is almost knocking me out, and so I think future wearings may demand a smaller dab, lol. I actually can still smell some of the aldehydes after 1 hour. But, I also smell a luscious sandalwood, vanilla, clove, dark rose, and only the tiniest hint of brandy and fruit. It does not have the same kind of "fermented" smell that the EDT has, and it is not as sweet at this stage. I don't get the gingerbread association as much, either.

I would classify the parfum as a sultry chypre in the same vein as Shiseido Feminite du Bois. I suppose I would also classify the EDT in the chypre family--only it reminds me more of Dior Dolce Vita, which has family similarities to FdB, but is much lighter in every respect. I definitely also see the resemblance to Coco, now that both the EDT and parfum have dried a bit.

Now, about an hour and a half after application--the EDT is fading. It is wearing longevity-wise as 31 Rue Cambon does. And to be honest, the drydown also smells quite a bit like 31RC, only it is much less sour (a big plus for me). The parfum is still going strong, but is opening a bit more, and the dark floral aspect is more apparent. Still no gingerbread with the parfum, but it has a way to go. I think, though, the sandalwood and vanilla will play a larger part from start to finish in the parfum. In contrast, the EDT dries to fruit, floral and powder, with only a hint of wood.

I wonder which one Luca Turin reviewed in The Guide? I give the parfum 5 stars, but I am not sure I would give the same rating for the EDT. The EDT is almost a completely different fragrance from top to bottom--the aldehydes are challenging, and I am not sure they really "fit" the composition. I really love the soft drydown of the EDT, though....

Perfume transcends the intangible mystery of time. And just like the presence of the mysterious time traveler, it enters our life suddenly and disappears without warning. Perhaps this was why when I saw her I smelled a phantom breath of Bois des Îles: a perfume that silently entered my consciousness and whose beauty I was unable to appreciate years ago because of its antiquated aldehydic moments and the vagueness of its intentions.

Years later, my reflections on Bois des Îles have been refined and clarity is starting to bring me more pleasure from this jus treasured within the crystal cut flacon. Without taking away from its mystery I can enjoy it and indulge in discerning the notes as they lazily dance on my skin. First come bergamot and aldehydes, which take some time to fade away. They are oily and bring to mind the somewhat uric aspect of sandalwood, and the somewhat sharp (at first) nuances of heady ylang ylang. As the aldehydic cloud settles, Bois des Îles becomes deliciously warm, with the spiciness of dry ginger and nutmeg. Sandalwood embraces the perfume throughout its evolution. Although there are floral notes in the heart (namely jasmine and rose), ylang ylang is the only one that truly stands out. The others are blended to complement the sandalwood and ylang ylang (smoothing and rounding its sharpness) and bridge from top to base and the crisp-woody notes of vetiver. And in the final movement choreographed on my skin, the sweetness of vanilla absolute, tonka and benzoin feels like a silky caress of soft lips and warm sand.

One of Chanel's best fragrances ever. Deserves much more publicity than the (non-existent) promotion it currently receives. Every bit as fascinating as the No. 5 that clogs the Chanel counters in all department stores worldwide. More subtle, more flavorful, deeper, more attractive--and more flattering to wear, too.
I smelled the gingerbread right away. Sure, Bois des Iles is about woods and florals, but the effect, in its entirety is warm, spicy-sweet, like a faint breeze carring the scent gingerbread from the oven on a cold day. This is better than the sandalwood-gingerbread of Bulgari Omnia because it does without with the annoying black pepper topnote. Bois des Iles is superb sandalwood, a love-at-first-sniff experience for me. I cannot speak more highly about it.

This is a very beautiful, complex fragrance; very elegant, classy, and sophisticated; discreet and delicious: one of those fragrances that -- as others have described -- is hard to pick out any one note all are so beautifully blended. If you like woody florals w/ a little spice and if you love sandlewood, you have to try a sample of this at least (I think I got mine at luckyscents.com or try perfumedcourt.com they might also carry it. The absolute only problem is that it doesn't seem to last on me; although today, it did I can even smell it now -- maybe it's the subtley that grows on me ... it's a toss up for me now between BDI and Sacre Bleu (which to me is VERY long lasting; somewhat sweeter; stronger in general). Confused at this point!

The sandalwood here renders all others inadequate. Bois de Iles is truly, one of the prettiest olfactory creations from Chanel ~ or from anyone for that matter! Take a look at the listed notes...I dare your nose to single out any of the flowers listed, I honestly don't think you can do it! Why, you ask? Simply because BdI is supremely & seamlessly crafted. It is THAT FINE! Two thumbs up!

Notes: (contrary to what the Basenotes notes pyramid says, gingerbread is not an actual note in Bois Des Iles)

Top: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, peach;
Middle: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, ylang-ylang, coriander;
Base: vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin, musk.

This review is of the EDT.

Created by the legendary Chanel head perfumer Ernest Beaux, a Russian immigrant, Bois Des Iles (Bdi) makes a strong case for importing Russians brain power and creativity! Bdi might be the best of Chanel, and one of the finest fragrances created. It’s a masterfully composed and perfectly balanced woody-gourmand fragrance. It makes most recent Chanels look like an embarrassment to the Chanel fragrance catalog. And yes its got that gingerbread/donut note thing going on, although I cant see anyone wearing this perfume perfection to a giggly carefree Dunkin’ donuts date…its far too suave for horny high-school first base encounters.

The most surprising thing about Bdi is that its more of a sandalwood fragrance than many fragrances that claim to be constructed around that note. From the more-cedar-than-sandalwood fragrances like Santal Noble, Tam Dao, etc., the cloying sweetness of Trumpers Sandalwood to the spicy sweet attack of Original Santal, Bois des Iles shows them all up with its superbly blended sandalwood note. A sparkling and smooth citrus (and slightly fruity) accord opens Bdi, and the medicinal yet cool vapors of sandalwood make one exclaim “Eureka! I found wood!”. The sandalwood is lent a comforting softness and approachability by a deft use of a floral heart.

Bois des iles is also (suprisingly) a very adept gourmand. It has a lingering "gingerbread" accord which is most prominent in the middle floral notes. It’s strange and captivating at the same time and is probably the result of a collision of the lingering ‘wood, the sweet florals and coriander. This spicy sweet accord inconjunction with the smooth sandalwood is woody nirvana. Its somewhat similar to Lutens Santal de Mysore, but unlike that fragrance, its less loud, more restrained, and far better balanced, i.e., the spices and (turkish) sweets dont bury the sandalwood six feet under. The cool sandalwood returns to the forefront in the base, and alongwith the vetiver, extends the longevity to way past the 7 hour mark.

If you like fine classic fragrances and/or are interested in experiencing one of the more impressive sandalwood fragrances on the market, Bois des iles should be at the top of your list. It also smells surprisingly contemporary - Ernest Beaux had set out to create a fragrance that bestowed a feminine character to the traditional masculine domain of dark woods. Little did he know that almost 80 years after its creation, this classic fragrance’s gingerbread note would represent the upper echelon of perfumery amidst the plethora of fruity, aquatic, and “gourmand” juices. Ah yea, that gingerbread note…..no, I can’t imagine Ted Kennedy wearing this one.

Woods and florals with just a hint of spice. looking at all the notes, I expected it to be much spicier, but instead is a very feminine white fragrance. I cannot see the resemblance at all to No 5, and I also find the longevity poor on my skin, but still well worth the price tag.

another really great perfume-yes this is such a loveable,fantastic and uncomparable perfume-this is classical chanel.Hors concours-very well balanced,the ingredients perfectly mixed and put together-from the opening to the drydown you feel like in heaven!It is so difficult to explain what you feel when you spray it for the first time.....floral,woody,a bit spicy....and so enjoyeable and comfortable-Whatever you take from Chanel-this is hot perfumery and on a high high level!Congratulations for the relaunch-Bois des iles is a unisex perfume-very exquisit and luxurious!

Bois des Iles—woods and florals exquisitely blended, creating one of the most elegantly constructed and beautiful perfumes I’ve encountered—reduce the perfection a tiny bit and turn up the masculinity somewhat and you have something fairly close to Égoïste. Exquisite! Classical! And classically Chanel.

Along with Egoiste my sandalwood based fave.

I think this one is similar to chanel's no.5 but more spicy and complex. A bit more on the dry side as well, I much prefer this one to no.5

Bois des Iles is captivating. It's Matisse's Fen'tre à Tahiti. Amazing. Unsurpassed.

Bois des Iles is a nice balance between cold and hot; like My Sin, this fragrance is an acquired taste. Very dry. Makes me think of silver. Some fragrances, like Guerlain’s Mitsouko or Lanvin’s Arpege, make me think of gold. Bois des Iles is like cool silver warming in your hand, or a cool silver necklace warmed by your neck. It isn’t as sharp as My Sin, nor does it have that animalic tang of My Sin. Frankly, of the two I prefer Bois des Iles. The sandalwood kick is pretty strong and exhilarating. As with My Sin, the florals in Bois des Iles get lost on my skin, but I do smell that aldehydic ping, a little citrus, a little spice, a little musk, and a lot of woods. This is available in EDT and parfum strengths. This review is for the EDT. Interesting note: Lanvin’s My Sin debuted a year before Bois des Iles was released and was formulated by a Russian perfumer, Madame Zed. Chanel’s Bois des Iles, released in 1926, was developed by Ernest Beaux who was also Russian and who said that his inspiration for this fragrance came from a Tchaikovsky piece he had seen performed in Moscow. A definite connection between old Russia and these two fragrances. Glad to have the classics back.

In 1926, Ernest Beaux, a Russian parfumeur, created Bois des Iles for Mademoiselle Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. As if this true masterpiece of parfumerie were not enough, he had previously created the coveted, greatest-selling scent of all time, Chanel No. 5. He described Bois des Iles as " ... a whisper of sandalwood, tonka bean and vetiver somewhere between bitter almonds and gingerbread." Monsieur Beaux led a revolution in fragrance when he introduced aldehydes in perfume. Aldehydes are organic chemicals that have a powerful diffusive effect. In effect, aldehydes intensify and magnify the essences into which they are blended. The result is an opulent head note of jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang previously and perfectly exhibited in Beaux's prolific, enduring masterpieces such as Chanel No. 5. I am a 45-year-old man who, as a consumer, both relishes and studies fragrances. In 2003, untested, I ordered a new flacon of Bois des Iles after researching and reading all that I could find about the fragrance. To say that I found my signature parfum would be understatement. Bois des Iles is perfection from first sniff to drydown. As much as I revere Chanel No. 5, Bois des Iles is a softer floral with, perhaps, softer wood and that magical, ever-so-slight note of gingerbread that keeps one's nose magnetized as the scent envelopes the most fortunate wearer. Opulent head notes of rose, iris and coriander burst silently from the precious flacon like the pressurized gases in a great champagne. Within the first hour of wearing Bois des Iles, top notes descrescendo like darkness over the earth, from east to west, and the most magical, powdery, floral personality rises like the sun the next morning. A bitter almond and gingerbread note blend so utterly perfectly into tail notes of sandalwood, vetiver and tonka bean. With the perfume, as opposed to the eau de toilette, the richness of the powdery floral notes endures ... and endures. There is something so timeless, arresting and perfect about Monsieur Beaux's creations of the 1920s including Chanel No. 22 and the skyscraping white floral, Gardenia. Today, Jacques Polge continues the work Beaux and Mademoiselle Chanel began. Monsieur Polge's creations such as Coco and Coco Mademoiselle are more great testaments to fragrance as art and fashion. We can only hope that he will build further on such perfection.

I'm having a hard time finding words to describe this fragrance -I just know that it is by far one of the most beautiful and outstanding scents I've ever smelled. It's exciting, daring, provocative, and confident. The aldehydes in Bois des Iles seem to be present mostly in the drydown, and they're not powdery as much as they are warm. I smell lots of balsam, and definite fresh sandalwood, and green, dewy leaves. I think this is my favorite fragrance of all time. It just seems to fit me, and it makes me feel utterly fabulous! I feel like I've always been searching for it...and I've finally found it. Oh - I'm so in love!

This is one to seek out. It begins with bracing wood notes, a slightly medicinal smell that reminds me of a cold winter wind. Its heart is warm and sweet, with jasmine and vanilla like a fire in a log cabin. Bois des Îles is complex and so simple at the same time, a really beautiful fragrance from the greatest fragrance house ever. It's a shame this isn't more readily available.