I was never able to fall in love with No. 19 in its ubiquitous EDP format. It came very close to what I like, but always struck me as a slow fade from bright green to dull green that, while technically adequate, lacked the panache required to draw me in.
Then I tried the parfum. What a game changer - it's awesome! The parfum concentration places the legendary topnotes alongside a rich dollop of iris and vetiver, while a heavier helping of that galbanum/moss mix are amplified by Chanel's signature creamy base. The end result is a perfect mix of green and rich. All told, it's almost like a vetiver perfume with a really complex soapy green iris support system.
I really love the parfum (and, for the record, the Poudre version, which goes the opposite direction and amplifies the brightness instead of the richness and also improves greatly on the EDP). Please do try the parfum version - it's worth tracking down.
Among the green floral fragrances still with us, Chanel No.19 is a marvel. Where many 60s and 70s green florals have either fallen out of production or been reformulated beyond recognition, No. 19 remains with us, and recognizably itself. I see this a balancing act, one that keeps its appeal broad enough to remain on Chanel's endless mainstream counters in every major department store. It's fresh but not girly, green but not soapy, assertive but not loud, and classy but not pretentious. It once had a leather base (likely supporting the oakmoss that it no longer contains), but in its modern incarnation it dries down from a carroty orris to a powdery musk--a textbook no-nonsense phantom chypre that also covers some of the same ground as a niche iris.
Although I appreciate the story behind No. 19, I don't really understand the "icy," "bitchy," and "heartless" descriptions of its current formulation. To me, it's refreshing and wearable. Maybe I'm not easily intimidated, or maybe I just don't recognize the stony-hearted wench in the mirror.
Rarely can a perfume be so daringly flirtatious and yet as cool and tingling as Chanel No 19.but cool and tingling doesn't mean citrusy in this case.far from it.amidst florals.it's a paradox as it doesn't smell flowery either.in fact this novel formula doesn't recall any exciting smell in particular and we would be hard pressed to pigeonhole,it's that independent. Sophisticated,Rich,Cool,Confident,Classic;Impressive and Very French.
It's a little strong at first but the dry down reveals a soft,smooth woody with hints of moss and leather and a powdery floral overtone that emphasizes,fulfills the personality.it's the scent of a sassy,chic woman who knows her own mind comforting and evocative as well as classic and avant-garde.it's classic that manages to feel modern at the same time,and it's best suited for women of strength and character.a must try for floral green lovers.
Longevity?Superb on my skin.
I own a small amount of vintage juice from the 1980's. What a marvelous scent! As a dry chypre, it is quite suitable for a man to wear.
The signature green note of No. 19 is announced through galbanum, which adds a nice touch to the citrus opening. Among the floral notes, rose and iris are prominent, but all the florals are very attractive in the mix. Never sweet. Restrained and dry, with hints of wood. Very elegant and classy. Dry-down has lovely light musk, salty-minty moss and hints of leather. Yet I must stress that the scent is never heavy or dense, and wears very well through the day.
Chanel's last creation, with perfumer Henri Robert, was almost as big a hit as her iconic No. 5.
Robert, as Roja Dove tells us, tempered galbanum, bergamot and neroli with orris. The chypre base of sandalwood, oak moss, leather and musk, similar to Robert's nephew's Caleche, tempers the muguet, rose, jasmine and hyacinth.
Turin calls it a "green floral" and gives it four stars. He says it may be one of "the cruelest" of the hard scent motifs. He notes the "silvery hiss of its nail-polish-remover beginnings to its poisonously beautiful green-floral heart." "Haughty and immune to sweetness, with a somewhat antiseptic air…."
Barbara Herman notes its "diluted, earthy, vegetal transparency" with "incredibly subtle leather and woods." Appropriate for "the evil witch from Snow White."
One wonders why such an austere, cold, hard, unforgiving scent is praised by anyone, let alone the olfactory experts, and why it was a hit.
My impression was that of an effervescent dry leather, which disappears almost instantly, leaving nothing in its wake. An emperor's new clothes scent - praise is for Chanel, afraid to be found wanting in taste, to say, it's not very nice at all.
Top notes: Galbanum, Neroli, Bergamot, Hyacinth
Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose, Muguet, Orris
Base notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Leather, Musk, Oak Moss