No. 19 (1971)
by Chanel

I've given up trying to make sense of NO.19; it's just too temperamental for me. Fresh and green on some days, floral and powdery on others. And when the mood strikes, it's simply undecipherable. But through all these permutations it always retain a cool, immaculate feel about it. I love it. Maybe I've grown to appreciate this facet of unpredictability from such a fine 1971 classic.

Citrus baby powder. That's it...the only way I can describe it.

****EDIT 07/11/2009**** I would like to profusely recant the review above. I tested No. 19 in the most hurried, and for the most part without serious contemplation and thought. The review above was all about initial impressions and nothing really about the whole composition in itself, because as I've discovered recently, there are beautiful and notable facets to this scent.

I wanted to review all three with some substance to them, but unfortunately, my review on the EdP will be rather thin and from vague memory.

EdT: This was where my initial impression came from. Smelling its topnotes in the air and catching citrus-green astringent and powdery notes. Many are put off by Chanel's recent reformulation, I'm not sure if it was another reformulation when the color went from a hunter green to an almost fluorescent green. I am reviewing the fluorescent green one here. The galbanum makes so much of an impression in the beginning, leafy and stemmy--crisp notes that give the impression of a spring morning after the rain.

As the green notes fade, there is a slight warmth of rose which is quickly replaced by bright, high pitched notes of muguet and ylang-ylang sweetened slightly by jasmine. Mossy notes start to appear, supported by green notes of vetiver.

As we head towards the drydown, the clearest note of leather appears, cold but sweet if you can understand what I mean--nothing animalic about it if this is a way to put it.

Finally, a trail of clean but sensual musk appears to end the experience. I was thoroughly entertained by this experience. Not many seem to enjoy this incarnation, but I think it is certainly one of the greatest perfume artistry in terms of its evolution and expression. The gents can certainly wear this because of its barely gender identified composition. One could easily mistake this as an EdC, very abstract enough, and you could describe this incarnation as niche quality. Some say that it is ahead of its time, but really, I don't think the older formulation smelled this way. Those who have followed No. 19 since 1971 please comment.

EDP: As I said, this isn't from vague memory. The EdP, as I remember is much more assertive. In a way, it smells classy, but bitchy. She knows what she wants, and is a bit audacious. The transitions if I remember are not smooth. The notes announce themselves then recede into the background from one phase to the next. Overall it is deeper, much like the parfum, but I think it has a more powdery edge to it compared to the parfum, but definitely louder. I wish I could say more about the base, but I had stopped paying attention to the fragrance when I tested it. Smelling this version lets you understand what the next step would be in Chanel's perfumes--the creation of Cristalle, the freebird sister.

PARFUM: The parfum is the true expression of the fragrance. Neither too assertive or too clean, it is a subdued fragrance that is personal, the homage to Coco Chanel's own personal scent.

This review is for a vintage edition imported from France, before the color of the juice was made a faint green. It begins with its classic citrus green notes, but with a very warm but transient notes of hyacinth and aldehydes. A definite note of rose appears, soon joined by bright notes of muguet and ylang-ylang. Powdery notes of orris and narcissus are there, but do not try to take over the rose that sits perfectly at the center.

As the drydown appears, the vetiver is very apparent. Leather appears, but much warmer than the EdT. There is a slight trace of familiarity with Cuir de Russie's composition, but isn't as animalic. The final notes appear as sandalwood on me. I can't detect the musk at all.

Overall, this version is quiet and contemplative with a streak of sophistication and romanticism. Much like how I would imagine Mlle. Chanel would be. There is also a hint of melancholy, a hint of the unfulfilled, the desire to do much more--ambition that hasn't found completion. You also can feel the nostalgia, a mark of everything that comes right up to this point in this fashion house. On a personal and deep level, I too can identify with these notions.

I think the EdT should be a quintessential scent to be worn in the spring and summer. Its leathery nuances make it great for a dash of sophistication at the office and for intimate evening formals.

The parfum is great for romantic moods or for contemplation without wearing something overbearing but always in the background. It can be worn for all seasons. All three however, express such a different facet in a person they would like to bring to light. Choose one version to express who you are!

Exquisite. Nothing else to say.

This one grew on me. At first, I didn't like it. Then, I actually smelled a hyacinth bouquet and reintroduced myself to the fragrance and allowed it to dry down and settle. It starts off as a burst of green and hyacinth and turns into a splendid surprise as it settles down - fresh, bright, warm and comforting. Love it!

There are a lot of differing opinions on No.19. I've read that it's a fragrance for 'youth' and isn't kind on the middle-aged; I've also read that it's an 'older' women's perfume that isn't kind on the young. Generally, I don't hold with any age or gender stuff when it comes to perfume. I have an 85 year old neighbour and 19 smells perfect on her; I have a 35 year old friend and it smells equally perfect on her.
My Mum bought be this back from her holiday last year. (I'd asked for No.5 which I've worn on and off for years.) I'd never tried 19 on my skin before so thought I'd give it go. Not being a fan of 'green, fresh' fragrances I was expecting not to like it. At first sniff I thought it was too feminine (even for this 'gentleman' who covers himself in Angel) but No.19 has a sting in the tale. After the floral opening the woody smell comes forefront - it reminds me of walking through a forest after heavy rain. It IS fresh and green and although I couldn't for the life of me tell you the notes, No.19 has something devillish about it; it's a perfume of contradiction. I wore this last summer and had compliments from both women and - get this - other men!
I wouldn't wear 19 on those occasions when you really want to make an impression - out clubbing, to a party etc - or for those more 'intimate' moments. For those occasions, I'll stick to Angel or A*Men. However, don't get the impression that No.19 is without kick, it certainly isn't. Something in the composition gives the undertone real assertiveness. No.19 will never be a perfume I wear consistently but I'm glad it's in my collection. Somedays I feel really drawn to it. So girls AND boys, give it a try.

The best that I can say about No. 19 is that I appreciate it. I'm glad to have smelled it, for reference. I even tried to love it, like so many other people. But, I can't love it or wear it. The resin and powder are overpowering on me. But it helped me understand what green means.