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Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) (1947)
by Christian Dior

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Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) information

Year of Launch1947
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 303 votes)

People and companies

HouseChristian Dior
PerfumerJean Carles
PerfumerSerge Heftler Louiche
PerfumerPaul Vacher
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton

About Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior)

Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) is a feminine perfume by Christian Dior. The scent was launched in 1947 and the fragrance was created by perfumers Paul Vacher, Serge Heftler Louiche and Jean Carles

Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior)

The original 1947 Miss Dior in the black and white hound's tooth check was a brown leather chypre and this olfactory hue immediately sets it apart from its great congener and wartime rival Bandit. If Bandit (1944) is the scent of a black leather handbag filled with odds and ends - the scented accoutrements of a hard bitten madame in Occupied Montparnasse, Miss Dior can be the scent of the perfumed saddle of Epona - Celtic goddess of horses who, in Apuleius's bawdy and picaresque novel The Golden Ass, has a shrine in a stable adorned with roses.

I choose this archaic metaphor because it is - today, like Miss Dior - out of its time. There has been a slippage in our olfactory social conventions over the past seventy years and Miss Dior is a perfect example of how things have changed in a lifetime.

Leather chypre was once an odour that denoted femininity. Admittedly this was an embattled post WWII femininity struggling with destruction, shortage and widowhood, but at the time leather chypre was a very popular genre for women's scent. Because of changes that have happened in society since then, Miss Dior came to smell no longer feminine in the way it had; the effects of war ceased to touch people in the same way that they used to and women were no longer survivors who had to learn to appear (and smell) resilient in the face of catastrophe. Consequently, this tough but big hearted floral has, by today's olfactory standards, slipped much closer to the gender boundary - it smells to our noses much less feminine than it originally did. What it signifies today is much less clear cut, but still no less beautiful than it was back in the aftermath of World War Two. Let's take a look at what its saying.

Brown leather chypre, with a humid undertone of stable yard and horse. There's a liquid crystalline citrus accord with the tang removed, and a spicy pepper clove and coriander overtone, with a base of resins balms, vetiver moss and patchouli. As it unfolds the spicy leather softens to reveal a lovely rose-jasmin and lily heart, surrounded by iris, neroli, lavender, tuberose and a green accord.

It was robust and yet subtle, with the grace of a chestnut thoroughbred mare. But Miss Dior was no pushover; she was - despite the soft pink heart - a commanding floral chypre with presence.

In their excellent book Perfumery, Calkin & Jellinek declared Miss Dior to be 'an extraordinary balancing act between contrasting materials, [and] one of the most admired perfumes among perfumers [at the time].

By today's sensibilities, Miss Dior doesn't read like a feminine. But the prominent floral centrepiece means it doesn't smell masculine either. The closest comparison to extant perfumery would probably be Aramis - wearing his floral heart very much on his sleeve; and this illustrates the problem that the original formula of Miss Dior posed for the contemporary perfume market - it didn't meet the needs of women of today.

After the war ended in 1945, confidence returned and people's tastes rebounded towards something lighter and more optimistic. Perfume buyers no longer wanted olfactory leather armour to protect their vulnerable emotions, and perfumery was not slow to respond. Only a year after Miss Dior came out, a new perfume appeared that was to become one of the cornerstones of modern perfumery - L'Air du Temps, an abstract gardenia and carnation bouquet - not a chypre.

Miss Dior managed to cling on right up until the seventies, but gradually the chypre went out of style and was all but abandoned as a feminine trope, to be replaced by florals, orientals and more recently gourmands as the default signifiers of femininity.

Nowadays, women want (or are told they want) something less confrontational, more consumable. Because of what had become by the eighties the complete loss of its cultural relevance, Miss Dior had to be completely overhauled if it was to survive as a commercial product.

As a result, this one time market leader and critically acclaimed masterpiece was axed and completely reformulated; it had to fall in line with current demands or fall by the wayside. Consequently, what was once the reference brown leather chypre, and one of the greatest perfumes of all time is no more: what goes by that name today is nothing but a bunch of fruity florals.

*****
23rd January, 2017
Galbanum Aldehyde. Very sharp, very Aldehydic. I don't smell anything unique with this, it smells like many other aldehydic fragrances of the 40s-80s
14th October, 2016
The original Miss Dior was a soft, floral, feminine fragrance with a touch of high quality leather. I highly recommend the vintage original. I have not tried the new "Miss Dior Originale," so I have no idea how it compares to the vintage Miss Dior. Given the name, I expect that it is supposed to smell like the original Miss Dior; however, given IFRA regulations and reformulations, I rather doubt it smells exactly the same.

Dior has totally confused everyone with the renamings of "Miss Dior." As I understand it, the old "Miss Dior Cherie" has been reformulated and named simply "Miss Dior" eau de parfum now, much to the consternation of the "Miss Dior Cherie" lovers.

This review is for the current Miss Dior (new) which is a patchouli and citrus heavy fragrance. It smells nothing like Miss Dior Cherie's various instantiations, and it smells nothing like the vintage Miss Dior. It is a totally different fragrance altogether, and I believe it should have been given it a different name altogether. In any case, this review is for MISS DIOR eau de parfum (new or current version).

I wore Miss Dior (the original) in the 1980s, and it was truly lovely--a very delicate and feminine floral. Eons later, or so it seemed, I tried Miss Dior Cherie and found it to be completely different from the original and not to my liking at all. Miss Dior Cherie was not even remotely similar to the original Miss Dior I knew and loved. Miss Dior Cherie was extremely sweet, fruity, and teeny bopper smelling---nothing like the original Miss Dior.

Then, I discovered Miss Dior Le Parfum a couple of years or so ago at a department store. Now, Miss Dior Le Parfum (allegedly a limited edition fragrance) is a very nice, sophisticated amber and rose parfum worthy of the name Dior. It is gorgeous and definitely worth owning, so I ordered a 100 ml bottle on-line. Unfortunately, instead of Le Parfum, what arrived was Miss Dior (new) eau de parfum, and I am rather disappointed in this one due to the heavy patchouli and citrus notes which completely dominate the fragrance from start to finish.

Of the listed notes, I detect neither rose, jasmine, nor musk Miss Dior (new). As others have said before me, Miss Dior (new) reminds me a lot of Chanel Mademoiselle and Chanel Coco Noir, two other fragrances that are not to my taste, either, thanks to the heavy patchouli and citrus notes in both of them.

Miss Dior (new) is obviously a high quality fragrance for patchouli and citrus lovers, hence the thumbs up, but I find it to be rather linear. Its linearity combined with the heavy patchouli and citrus notes makes it somewhat less than likeable for me. I do not mind linearity, per se. For exmple, linear amber and sandalwood fragrances would be more to my taste. It is the strong, linear patchouli and citrus notes that ruin this fragrance for me.

Four small sprays on me last a solid six to eight hours before it turns into a skin scent. Projection and sillage are amazingly outstanding for the first four to six hours (I wish many of the fragrances I adore had this good of projection and sillage). I find it clings to clothing literally for days and days. This is a superior fragrance for patchouli & citrus lovers. The patchouli in this is quite clean, too. This incarnation of Miss Dior smells young and expensive, 'tis true, but it is not for me.

I think Miss Dior (new) is best used on cold days/nights. I do not think it is truly office friendly. It is best used for evenings out. Even two sprays are a bit much for day time use in my opinion.

Fragrance Quality: 10/10
Fragrance: 6/10
Projection: 9.5/10
Sillage: 9.5/10
Longevity: 10/10
28th April, 2016
Salutation.

A sophisticated and luxurious scent that evokes images of the epitome of feminine elegance and style, the whisper of fine silk in motion,opulence of cashmere and magnificent furs.Yes MISS DIOR.wonderful memories are associated with this fragrance. Legendary,Ladylike,Stylish,Classical,Unforgettable, Romantic,Generous and truly Timless.

It is classified as a luxurious,gentle floral fragrance that immediately diffuses from the skin because of its aldehyde nature.top aldehyde notes,a expertly bouquet heart including carnation,lily, jasmine and neroli and a warm mossy base of woods with labdanum creates a harmonized blend that is both fresh and sensual and also utterly feminine.

MISS DIOR is in the true sense of the word a ladylike's fragrance.I would recommend this fragrance out on a Dinner date or a Romantic evening.The fragrance can be worn year round especially in the Autumn/Winter. In conclusion a wonderful choice for a real lady.DIOR means CLASS.

Sillage?Great.

Longevity?Remarkable for a EDT.

8/10
09th July, 2015
Barbara Herman describes Miss Dior as "bruised flowers on a base of leather, moss, and patchouli, sliced with something sharp and green." It also has an animalic "dirty" note that makes it extremely daring and interesting for its time.

Dior always wore Coty's Chypre, which has a healthy dose of the tar noted Castoreum. It was this that inspired Miss Dior. Information provided by Roja Dove.

Top notes: Gardenia, Galbanum, Clary Sage
Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose, Neroli, Narcissus, Orris, Muguet, Eyelet, Carnation
Base notes: Patchouli, cistus-labdanum, Oakmoss, Ambergris, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Leather, Castoreum

The original is a masterpiece of florals emerging from dark, animalic, leather. The re-formulation smells like a lightly floral spice scent. Like night and day. Seek out only vintage.
20th October, 2014
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
A gorgeous combination of galbanum and jasmine, both on an aldehyde blanket, make for a lovely traditional opening. Later on a balanced, soft patchouli is added that at times takes on a leathery note and gives the whole scent its chypre character. There is always elegance present, ands the quality of its components is unquestionably top-notch. Good sillage and projection with five hours of longevity. The newer reformulation is less dense, less rich and less complex, but still a respectable product.
04th September, 2014

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