Muguet (Lily of the Valley) can be sharp and true, as in nature, or softened with other florals to become easier on the nose. Truists for this scent, like those for vetiver, often side with the sharp and true, although there are many softer versions available.
This is pure muguet, starting sharp and metallic, then muddling with other florals, and settling down to its single muguet note.
For those who like this truist approach, Diorissimo is for you. I prefer the softer approach - Caswell Massey's Lily of the Valley/Coty's Muguet de Bois.
Top notes: Calyx, Bergamot
Heart notes: Muguet, Jasmine, Lilac, Boronia, Ylang, Rose, Amaryllis
Base notes: Rosewood, Sandalwood, Civet
The bottle is spectacular, a Baccarat crystal vase, topped by bronze flowers with a gold wash.
Diorissimo is one of my favourite floral perfumes: lily of the valley is joined by touches of jasmine, ylang ylang and green notes to create an all time classic. I prefer the Parfum and Eau de Toilette strengths: the newer Eau de Parfum has definitely been altered and isn't nearly as fresh smelling. The now discontinued Espirit de Parfum was lovely, as were all the beautiful bath products.
I have seen several comparisons between Diorissimo and Caron's Muguet du Bonheur, but I really not see the similarity. To me, Muguet du Bonheur is far more a jasmine perfume, whereas Diorissimo is predominantly lily of the valley.
Genre: Green Floral
What can I say about this beautiful and timeless floral scent? Diorissimo can seem simple at first. Its composition is crystal clear and light as a veil. Yet beneath its silvery surface runs a gentle current of animal warmth that endows Diorissimo with an uncanny, mysterious depth.
Perfectly balanced, cunningly constructed, and utterly compelling, Diorissimo defies description in mere words. Wear it, be happy, and make those around you happy too.
I was recently sent a sample of Wild Hunt -CB I Hate Perfume, which I could only see as an anti perfume. That later made me realise that in the world of anti perfumes Diorissimo is the grande dame.
Diorissimo is a brilliant essay in scent matching, a very well realised excecution of the waxy, lemony, lily type scent of Muguet, even with the undertone of sharp green foliage properly correct in there.
But, is it a perfume?
No. Not as I understand it.
Like the smell of stale ditch water in WH, the smell of Muguet is a copy of nature, which simply reproduces what is there and doesn't add anything new.
Its a very well done piece of craft work. But as a artistic creation it fails.
As Coco Chanel said, women (or men for that matter) should not smell like a flower.
I give it a neutral rating for the quality of excecution (of the original formulation.)
Its a pity that such a great talent as Roudnitska should have spent so much time on his hands and knees sniffing Lily of the Valley plants in pursuit of such an endeavour, rather than creating another masterpiece.
09th November, 2013 (last edited: 04th June, 2015)
Love this! So feminine and so springtime.
This was my first fragrance after I finished college and started my first job. A man I worked with said "that's not for a young girl you need something for a young girl". To me, Diorissimo screams young Victorian girl. Men were so chauvinistic back then. What was I suppose to wear at 23? Tinkerbell? Little Lady from the children's department. I ignored him and kept wearing this until I used up the entire bottle. By then I was on to Shalimar and other things.
A few years ago I smelled it on someone and once again fell in love. It still makes me feel very young heart and just screams springtime which is my favorite season. The lilly of the valley is very strong and may not be everyone's cup of tea.
Usually wear this in the early spring and summer.
Pros: Beautiful floral that smells young at heart.
Cons: Almost too floral to some but not me.