One of the few fragrances that make me go weak in the knees. I have a parfum from the 70s that is pure heaven. Grab one if you can.
Perfect for women and men.
The current formulation of Diorella may suffer from the same lack of depth as all contemporary chypres (such is life after real oakmoss, and we might as well get used to it), but it still has a lot going for it. It's built like a brick house, it's wearable, and it seems classic rather than dated.
That unmistakeable opening accord of weird sour lemon-lime soda ( Emergen-C packets, really) Is one of the most distinctive I know in perfumery. I also love the play between the notes of citrus and overripe melon and the funky jasmine and bitter carnation, all held in tension against a backdrop of vanilla and musk. This tension between floral and edible gives Diorella its wonderful structure.
Every time I wear Diorella, I smell something new, and I end up furtively sniffing my wrist all day. It's crisp but not forbidding, and these days it seems like nobody wears anything like it. I love this as a warm weather/work/daytime scent, but these classics also always feel dressy enough for evening.
*And* it has just the right amount of sillage--and it lasts.
I suppose Diorella is considered one of the paramount achievements of modern perfumery, from what I read. Although not uncommon, here in Asia it proved difficult to find, so I got a bottle when I traveled to Europe.
I like the current edition. A floral chypre, yes, with citrus and somewhat fruity. But much more than this of course. It is long lasting and changes course throughout its development.
It includes a kind of stale odour which can even be described as body odour (BO), and I have pondered that this might be due to an indolic jasmine, but I don't know of course. Thus the fragrance has an interesting combination of 'freshness' and 'staleness'. I actually prefer the current edition since I have also tried the vintage, but found it to be too 'stale'.
In my opinion it is completely unisex, it doesn't smell much feminine to me.
Genre: Fruity Floral/Chypre
I'm not going to describe Diorella in detail - others here have done it better than I could. What I will say is once it gets past its rather abrasive green-tinged opening, Diorella morphs into a fruity floral fragrance that puts all of today's trite, synthetic, teeny-bopper fruity floral scents to shame. Here the rounded, realistic fruit notes, translucent honeysuckle, and crisp carnation bloom over a brillaintly judged musk and moss base, which through its animalic touch makes this a sophisticated, grown-up women's scent.
Perhaps it's the melon note, but something in Diorella reminds me of another Roudnitska masterpiece: the profoundly beautiful and posthumous Le Parfum de Therese. Le Parfum de Therese is at once more suave and suggestive than Diorella, but the two are clearly sisters. While Le Parfum de Therese was formulated for Therese Roudnitska's private use, I can see Diorella as another venture along similar lines, this time "safer" to accommodate public consumption. At any rate, it's another wonderful scent from one of the greatest masters.
For those who have never experienced Rochas' 1949 classic, Moustache, Diorella will seem like a unique scent. It's not. It's a copy of the earlier Rochas masterpiece.
Lemons, oranges, limes, soured and just to the point of rotting, but not quite there yet. This gives it a typically French "dirtiness" that makes it a ball game all in itself.
Diorella presents a rounder, lighter version of Moustache, and dries down to a warm chypre, which Moustache does not. The Rochas has one note, but it did get there first.
I was going to give Diorella a neutral review due to its lack of originality, but thought better of it since I do want to encourage readers to experience this scent, regardless of whether the source be Rochas or Dior.
Truly unisex in my book and a Dior winner.