Aromatics Elixir (1971)
by Clinique

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique manages to simultaneously fascinate me with its complex mix of rose, patchouli and synthetics – and at the same time I find it unbearable. I hate it. I think I love it. It smells so encroaching and stifling. It smells soft and sensual. What was I thinking? Why don’t I own a bottle of this yet? What am I trying to convince myself of?

AE has many long time fans (Burr gave it 5 stars; Turin did also) and supposedly it also has a twin brother scent (Aramis 900 is supposed to smell like an EDT version of AE – I cannot confirm this). Nonetheless, I feel a deep seated and hard-to-ignore respect for the fragrance. But…is this enough to push me to wear AE? I must admit, the answer is no.

Yes, AE has rose. And patchouli. Along with a host of other florals and elements overall combining to create a crisp, almost toasty chypre effect. Fascinating! But the overall scent is heavily doused with a large amount of energetic synthetics – acetonic, or like a whiff of mineral spirits mixed with a freshly painted wall. Later, I came running back to sing its praises when a co-worker wore it as her signature scent and knocked me out (in a good way) with her sillage (all around the office when she walked through the front door). I want to smell like that! On her skin it’s filled with a bit more airspace, my nose has the pleasure of creating a bit of beautiful background music, from the scent. On me the strength of the floral and wood combo and the volume it plays at, around in the air quickly becomes uncomfortable - like a week-old, scruffy beard that’s growing out: scratchy, cloying in the heat, sensitive. Combined with the above average longevity and tenacity of the scent to skin, the combination is scattered…a tangled mess of accords.

Bravo to Lauder (Clinique’s parent company), the perfumer, the late Bernard Chant (who’s creations Aramis & Devin, I adore) and to all of you who can wear AE with success. Not me. I am reminding myself that, with a wardrobe as full of bottles decants and samples as mine, I don’t need to convince myself to love AE.

I had such high hopes for this one, and I was really trying to keep an open mind, but this is flat-out nasty on me.

The top notes are promising. A spicy rose note emerges and promises to bloom, but instead it shrivels, smelling like mashed and dessicated rose petals, musty and dark and dry. In the heart the patchouli comes forward, together with a soapy quality that gains in strength as the rose fades even more, becoming quite acrid and soapy in the base.

The sillage and longevity are just okay, but not satisfactory - about three hours on me. Thankfully this won't be a regular on my shelf anytime soon, so it's not my problem...

I find this dull and lifeless and acrid. No thanks!

Way to heady for my current tastes. Longevity and sillage are amazing, so great for those who love this fragrance. Brings to mind Estee Lauder Private Collection. Not for the faint at heart!

Parfum review:

I had great hopes for this one but, for a ‘70s scent, the disappointment came as no surprise. Unfortunately, Aromatics Elixir just doesn’t work on my skin. All I get is an extremely pungent chamomile and patchouli combination that reminds me of a horribly out-of-date perfume. There’s a vague hint of floral notes, in the composition, as well but this is overwhelmed by the two dominant notes.

I really wanted to like this one but my skin chemistry just wouldn’t allow it. Its only redeeming quality is its longevity and sillage, but that’s not even enough to prevent me from giving this one a thumbs down.

I absolutely love the simplicity of the bottle, though.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Aromatics Elixir is "the" perfume, and is far beyond from many ordinary market frags. It is a "love it or hate it" fragrance which does not suit everyone. Reading other reviews, I felt lucky to be from the ones who has the needed chemistry to pull it off. Every time I wear this I get compliments.

AE does not smell green or floral to me at all. What I smell is pure quality incense (a mix of chamomile, frankincense and myrrh, with that distinctive note of oak moss) which is very soothing, comforting and enveloping like a warm blanket.

As AE is very concentrated; use it sparingly or it is guaranteed to give you -and people around you- a headache regardless of how much you love it. Also always keep it in a cool and dark place as -due to its concentrated composition- it tends to go bad more quickly than mostly synthetic, lighter frags with a higher alcohol+water content instead the natural essential oils.

Truth in advertising: Aromatics Elixir starts out green and floral with a bracing dose of aromatics adding their rasping accent to the principal accord. It grows steadily more floral as it develops, but the green and aromatic notes persist as counterpoint behind the flowers.

The whole composition remains crisp and dry, with a clean yet earthy “outdoors” quality that reminds me of freshly cut hay. A sharp, almost peppery woody accord in the foundation adds depth without threatening the balance with excessive sweetness. Nice stuff, and no wonder that its managed to survive for decades.