This has one of those unique openings - chamomille tea, hints of bergamot, and a darkish rich rose with a good lashing of bitterness courtesy of the dyad of coriander and of an oakmoss, which in the days of pre-IFRA diktats was the real thing - with a few olfactoric brushstrokes a masterful - or mstresful - opening is created. Unmistakbale.
In the drydown we are talking floral business, which infuses the darker, harsh and intense opening notes with white florals - I get mainly lily-of-the-valley and a sweetish ylang-ylang, with jasmine and a very discrete carnation also present. The base adds a darkish patchouli that is not too harsh with touches of sandalwood, and it ends on a warm and well rounded herbacious woody-floral note.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity in my skin
The original version is a complex and formidable classic, an iconic scent for cooler evenings, and nowadays it is still very respectable indeed. 3.75/5.
Either u love it or hate it. This scent is not for everyone. I love it because it's different. It's powerful strong a little goes a long way trust me. A little spray here an there that's all u need. A scent that calms down to a wave of spice an musk luxuriousness that lasts. I call this my fall/winter fragrance but I wear this anytime of the year. It's a "dare to be different" kind of fragrance. I LOVE IT!!!
I remember this one from my childhood, because two of my older sisters wore it constantly – they let me try it, and I loved how it smelled on them and I guess because of that I still think of it as a “grown-up” perfume, even though I am a grown-up (mostly!) now myself. You know when you run in to somebody you really like – as a friend, not romantically – whom you haven’t seen in ages, and you talk and talk and talk and you find yourself thinking “I really like this person, they’re lovely, why did we lose touch?” That is how I feel about this perfume. Many, many, many, uggghhhhh MANY moons ago, I think I OD’d on this. I came across my two little miniature bottles of Aromatics Elixir (gifts with purchase from a long time ago) buried in my drawer, each with maybe a teaspoon of juice left in them, the dear little things, so I pulled them out and tried it again. They’ve each aged differently – the juice in one is much darker and has gone thick, almost like an oil, while the other is a bit lighter, but not as thick. I tried the darker one yesterday and the other one today, and while the darker one smells a bit sharp at opening, thankfully they smell much the same. I get the chamomile, the sandalwood, the incense and the jasmine straight up; herbal, woody, sweet – beautiful. It feels cool thanks to the oakmoss and clary sage, but warm as well because of the sandalwood and incense. It’s another one of those perfumes that could be too much because of all of the different notes, but it’s not, and that is obviously down to the skill of the person who created it. It’s smoky and sultry, spicy but also sweet, comfortable and familiar but surprising all at the same time. I’ll be wearing this, enjoying the spiciness, then it changes and I get a lovely waft of sweetness drifting up with the spice. For some reason, it makes me think of a long, slinky, yellow-gold silk dress, with a dramatic V-neck with vintage lace trim. I’ve never seen this dress before, but that’s what springs to mind. It’s a classy, feminine, almost old-worlde fragrance – I can’t help picturing a swarm of elegantly dressed women, circa 1940’s (complete with long strings of beads and those long cigarette holders), sitting around a table in a beautifully landscaped garden, enjoying an early champagne brunch. I’m thinking I’ll have to treat myself to a full bottle of this at some stage in the not too distant future. Welcome back, old friend – I’ve missed you.
Understandbly the love for this warranted. Even today it holds a mark high for a well constructed naturally fresh Floral Oakmoss savon. Beats the hell out of the floral musk muck of today.
Better though is the younger Vintage Genny,similar and it's richer quality unpasteurized butterfat content. A little "dirtier clean"
15th July, 2016 (last edited: 08th January, 2017)
This scent is so classic, so beautiful.....but unfortunately it's off limits at my office, because a coworker hates it with a passion. LOL So, it's only for evenings out or at home, because it's a strong one that you either love or hate. I LOVE IT!
09th February, 2016 (last edited: 30th March, 2016)