Chypre de Coty (1917)
by Coty

Not what I expected, to say the least! This, the classic chypre, the chypre that started it all, is rather plain, demure, and unassuming. If you're hunting this down for history's sake do not expect something dark, edgy, and complex, like Mitsouko. While well-made and not flawed, I find myself a little amazed that this is the fragrance that inspired the whole genre and thousands of perfumes along with it.

What does it smell like? Why, a chypre, of course - bergamot in the top notes, green-tinged florals in the heart, and a mellow, mossy base. Very light, fresh, and green. I'd be hard pressed to put my finger on what makes it any different from many fragrances just like it.

Totally agree with the reviewer who can live without Coty's Chypre.

When I was a student in 1964 had a summer holiday job at the Coty factory west of London. One of the jobs I used to do was to screw the tops on the eau-de-toilette bottles, of all the fragrances I worked with Chypre was the worst, it was brought to us in trays of 24 after working with the scent for 10 minutes I felt nauseous This perfume was very heady.

Unsophisticated I couldn't understand why people liked this "old ladies perfume".
But they did Coty's sold gallons of the perfume.

Well, I'm just going to say it. I don't get the fuss. Maybe it's just a case of 'mass hysteria'. I finally got a vintage sample & knew that once it touched my skin, my life would never be the same. But that didn't happen. All I could think was, "I've smelled better." Mitsouko & Miss Dior put me in awe & I'm sure my life would be empty without them, but I think I can actually live without the infamous Coty Chypre. Sorry Folks!

Lost, lost forever--the fragrance that started a whole olfactive family, the chypres. Created in 1917 and reportedly discontinued permanently in the 1980s, people can now only wonder how a chypre is supposed to smell. Actually, it is quite different and in many ways better than the new genre. This vintage sample I am wearing is difficult to deciper because, after so many years in the bottle, the notes are stewed together. The overall impression starts out green and spicy, sage coupled with bergamot. Then a big, round, floral heart emerges, with rose and jasmine, followed by a base with a huge dollop of oakmoss (now restricted in perfumery). The whole is well-sweetened with labdanum. Any perfumer who thinks he or she can make a chypre by putting together clashing notes has missed the point and should smell this mellow beauty. There are no sharp edges. The whole is warm, earthy, sweet, musty, smooth, and powerful. To me, it has a distinctly golden aroma, like dried fruit in the sun. Devastatingly beautiful.

I love these classic chypres and I guess they don’t get any more classic than this: This is the scent that created the chypre category. This is CHYPRE. Chypre by Coty was so successful in 1917 that "chypre" became the generic label for the whole category of perfumes, which are compositions are based, usually, according to Concord, on bergamot, patchouli, ciste-labdanum, and oak moss accords. These rich chypre notes are mixed with fruity or floral notes. The basic notes of Coty’s Chypre are those that I’ve met in so many classic scents; just to name a few of the multitude: Mitsouko, Acqua di Parma Profumo, Ma Griffe, Aramis, Polo, and even good old Tabu has a definite chypre tinge to its Orietalism.

Chypre opens with a strong civet and citrus / bergamot that is rich, a bit dirty and a lot captivating. I don’t get much of the fruit that is supposed to be in the top notes—just a stab of fruitiness that lasts a moment or two. With the mid notes the bergamot and civet diminish considerably and the deep scented florals join in a rich sensual accord that is supported by the moss and labdanum and patchouli from the base—purely classical and enticing. Of the florals, I can identify rose, jasmine, and orris. The middle does turn powdery—but not too powdery, and it’s a totally wonderful feminine accord that moves into the soft and discreet unisex dry down. This fragrance has a restrained sillage and an acceptable longevity. A totally impressive creation: Bring it back, Coty.