Reviews of Youth Dew (1953)
by Estée Lauder

Back in the fifties, the name “Youth Dew” may have conjured up hope – a magical potion in a bottle, perhaps. These days, it smacks of desperation. I imagine middle aged women spraying themselves with this in an attempt to cling to the last vestiges of their fading beauty. Or Countess Bathory bathing in the blood of virgins.
I bought this untested because I liked the sound of the ingredients, but unfortunately, they are put together in such a way that they do not like me. From start to finish, this perfume is soapy. It’s not particularly unpleasant, but it’s not particularly nice either. There’s a sharp burst of citrus that (as Ron Burgundy says in Anchorman) stings the nostrils. After a while this is replaced by a spicy carnation scent (the clove), with a dollop of sweetness (the vanilla) and a lot of soap.
I don’t get any of the gorgeous, mulchy earthiness you normally get with patchouli-based scents. In fact, with the patchouli, citrus and peach, I was hoping it would be a little like Mitsouko, but it just doesn’t even compare.
Youth Dew may be a classic fragrance, but it just doesn’t work for me.

25 years ago, if I encountered someone wearing Youth Dew I would have to leave the room IMMEDIATELY, else vomit within a few minutes. I am not making a joke, I actually vomited TWICE from someone wearing this fragrance. Later on, I found I could actually wear it, but VERY, VERY sparingly....just the TEENIEST drop, wrists ONLY. I don't love it and I don't wear it, but at least it doesn't make me vomit any longer!

My mother has always loved Youth Dew and many people would get this for her on Christmas. She'd spray a little on with each package she opened and by the end of the day she'd have about a bottle on. Youth Dew has some marvelous ingredients in it and is very spicy, the kind I usually like, but I have just been Youth Dewed out.

Very spicy scent, very strong and a bit much for me. Gives me a headache after 30 mintues. Not for me, but I would think if you like Opium you would also love this.

I was given a bottle of Youth Dew when I was 12, in a gift packet after working in a runway show. At 12 I was *far* too young for something so intense, and in the hot climate of Austin Texas it was just too much. I should try it again as an adult and see what I think.

With its dark juice and dense composition, the name Youth Dew seems a bit out of place - unless the dew drop smells of civet, and adorns a wild narcissus in the middle of winter. The opening of Youth Dew reminds me tightly knotted woolen yarn, soft, warm and inviting - yet you can’t find the end/beginning and start knitting yet!
As it settles on the skin, it starts opening up, one bit at a time. As the citrus wears off and the spices soften by woody undercurrent, bit by bit the floral heart starts to emerge until reaching a peak – where narcissus and ylang ylang dance to the indolic rhythm of the civet base – sexual to a degree that borders on the impolite, so you need to hold on with self-conviction and dignity. But even the luscious of flowers decompose and return to earth, this time made of muddy puddle of earthy patchouli and vetiver which gradually softens and mellows until finally reaching a delicate dry down phase that is vanillic and surprisingly reminiscent of Chanel no. 5.

This is the review for the pure parfum – a limited edition in a beautiful, frosted flacon with a delicate frosted flower stopper, filled with the almost black juice this leaves an unforgettable impression!
I find Youth Dew to be very suitable for winter, and can’t imagine wearing it in any other season and being able to keep my olfactory bulb intact. The indolic heart and the earthy base surprisingly reminds me of sticking my nose into a narcissus, inhaling the scent that smells so delicate from afar, and so deadly from nearby; inhaling it along with the some rare raindrops that clanged to the petals; All this after spending the whole afternoon jumping in puddles after the rain stopped…

Top notes: Citrus and Spices
Heart notes: Narcissus, Ylang Ylang, Cloves, Rose
Base notes: Civet, Patchouli, Vetiver, Vanilla

p.s. I am giving it only a neutral rating because I don't think it is as original as it is considered to be. Tabu by Dana preceeded it by 20 years; And a similar famous perfume - Opium (20 later) is superior to it in composition. I do appreciate it highly for its breakthrough in American perfumery and the impact it had on women.