Colormechris got it right in his review of this fragrance from 2011 - take away some floral elements and the gigantic slug of aldehydes, and you have Lauder for Men. Personally, I prefer Azurée. It has the
"Lauder base" that I so admire, it sparkles softly from top to bottom, and it also has a rather bitter, bad-tempered feel to it that suits me to a tee.
Brilliant work, and far ahead of it's time in 1969. A must for any serious fragrance fan.
12th October, 2014 (last edited: 15th February, 2015)
Azurée is a very dry aldehydic floral composition built atop an earthy, bitter leather chypre foundation. The aldehydes in Azurée are of the harsh, burning candle sort, and their extreme dominance no doubt contributes to the sharp, bitter impression that this fragrance makes after its first few minutes on the skin. I believe Michael Edwards classes Azurée as a “dry woods” (i.e. leather) scent in his Fragrances of the World compendium, so perhaps there’s some birch tar analogue or isoquinolone content to that bitterness as well. Once Azurée assembles its hard-edged green chypre core it stays running in place for several hours. It eventually mellows into a mossy leather and clean musk drydown, but nowhere in the progression does it become sweet.
Having worn it, I can see why Azurée never attained the popularity of White Linen, Pleasures, or even Alliage. With its persistent bitter edge and its dryness Azurée is not an easy fragrance to love. In concert with a heavy aldehyde content, Azurée’s austerity places it on a thin line between smelling like your grandmother and smelling like something a man ought to be wearing. No wonder nobody seems to know what to do with it. All that aside, I think Azurée is an interesting scent, and one with a unique character. I recommend anyone, male or female, who eschews sweetness in their fragrances or enjoys classic leather chypres to give Azurée a try.
The opening of this fragrance is bright and sparkling, like walking along a beach on a hot day. The leather is creamy, buttery and very pleasant. One hour later I take another sniff of the wrist - hang on I know that smell. It's Imperial Leather soap! Unfortunately for me, that's how it remained for the rest of the day. I can't for the life of me see how this is made for women, because it's definitely more suited to men. My husband is not the type of bloke to happily spray a female frag but if I could somehow decant it into an aftershave bottle I think he would use it.
Tania Sanchez gives it 5 stars and huge praise, but she also questions why no one mentions it. Maybe it's because some of us don't rate it so highly.
05th May, 2014 (last edited: 10th May, 2014)
Azuree has a lot in common with the big powerhouse chypres of the 1980s, with the big exception that it does not scream at you. It is more balanced and yes, more sophisticated.
On me it starts as a bitter herbal and evolves with a certain sweetness reminiscent of Aramis and Puig's Quorum to a pleasant dry leather scent.
Not outstanding in any way, but perfectly pleasant. As usual Turin goes way overboard and gives this "chypre floral animalic" five stars, when only three are in order.
I get none of the florals - it just goes from bitter green to a very slightly sweet overlay, to the leather, so for me it is an "herbal leather."
06th February, 2014 (last edited: 26th May, 2015)
Unique but hard to wear
Now and again I like to step out of my comfort zone to sample a scent that's "not me". Leathery fragrances are just that, with a vengeance! I've tested several, but never feel quite comfortable wearing them. I feel the way I would if I strapped on a pair of 4 inch high stiletto heels; play-acting a part that's out of my range.
So, long story short, I can't write a glowing review although I will say that Azuree is unique. Herbal, bitter opening that's hot and dry gives way to a mossy, very leathery finish. Imagine an old leather saddle, left out in the hot and dry desert air, rubbed with bitter herbs and left out a little longer. Sillage is massive and longevity--well, I'm sure it's massive, too, (my bottle is vintage, and the liquid is almost as thick and viscous as oil) but I couldn't leave it on beyond 2 hours. I can't imagine where I would feel comfortable wearing this fragrance; working in the barn? (if I had a barn); riding my horse? (if I had a horse). You get the idea. This is a bold frag for a bold personality. Definitely one for the man or woman who loves to stand out.
Pros: Long lasting, realistic leather notes
Cons: Too strident, bitter, and herbal, making it a tough wear"