Azurée (1969)
by Estée Lauder

top: basil, jasmine, and citrus
heart: armoise, sage, spearmint, vetiver, and rose
base: patchouli, moss, and amber

I'm making my way through a set of Estee Lauder minis and it seems each is more fascinating than the one before. I'm now up to Azuree, and I can't believe how much I am enjoying this complex herbal citrus concoction.
Azuree is a wonderful sparkling green aldehyde-laden chypre launched in 1969, and she shares some DNA with several of her bell-bottomed siblings like Alliage, Cabochard, No. 19, Diorella and Miss Dior. There is a familiar bitterness in the opening, although in Azuree, this is also clean and citrusy, very smooth, and rather subdued. An interesting addition in this fragrance, are the herbal notes of sage and basil, as well as the earthy, herbal absinthe (armoise). To me, the base is a rather austere, oak moss, and vetiver. Just lovely.
I have seen many reviews reference the Mediteranean beach, for which this fragrance is named, and in it's complexity, Azuree does evoke a cloudy but warm coastal spot, with a flourishing herb patch of basil, mint and sage, of a sleepy walled-garden with flowering orange trees, and cool moss climbing an old stone wall. Transformative.

21st January, 2012.

I just tried this today at the department store. Except for some very, very minor differences; this is exactly like Lauder for Men. Maybe a touch more floral. Please see my review for Lauder for Men since it would be exactly the same for Azuree, pretty much. In any event, a very excellent nine stars out of ten!

18th November, 2011.

With its green bitterness, sparkling aldehydes and a remarkable citrus note, Azuree recalls immediately of other classics of the same genre such as vintage Cabochard, Bandit and original Aramis. Austere, extremely dry and potent with a slight nostalgic vibe. Androgynous leaning towards the masculine it does great both on a self confident woman or a man.

Due to its angular/edgy nature Azuree may not appeal to everybody but I definitely rank it among the most successful creatons by Mr.Chant. Personally I stuck with the "dominatrix" Bandit but, when it comes to leather-chypres, Azuree is still one of the best bang for the buck.

15th October, 2011.

Strange - this is Bel Ami that dries down to Bandit. I don't like Bel Ami and Bandit does Bandit better than Azuree.

The leather note here - and the one shared with Bandit - smells more like leatherette, as in a plastic or vinyl simulacrum of leather. This note is better supported in Bandits green, bitter and edgy structure. Here it smells more chemical than I'd like.

Its OK, reasonably priced, smells like it could be made by a niche house, and is better than just about any aquatic you care to mention. But then, smelling of nothing at all is infinitely is better than smelling of them.

I'm pleased I've tried it, but don't feel the need to buy it.

29th August, 2011. (Last Edited: 5th September, 2011.)

I bought this today and am totally thrilled with it. Had just bought another bottle of scent (Vetiver at Le Labo),and was definitely not minded to buy another, but then wandered in to Selfridges for a little mooch around. I took one siff of Azuree and I was smitten.

I can see that this perfume may not be to everyone's taste, it is a rather strong aldehydic chypre, but for me it has a glamorous and rich quality that I love. In many ways it's how I remember my mother's perfumes smelling - it has something of the golden era of perfumes about it. I can remember my mum wearing a fir coat, pearls and bright red lipstick, and although my version of grow-up womanhood is very different to hers, I shall wear it when I am in that mood and in that spirit. Azuree is quite unisex and would smell equally good on a man, I will probably keep mine for the autumn.

The bottle is good to look at as has been said, and I too thank Estee Lauder for keeping this on their books. For £35 for 60ml you can't go wrong.

23rd August, 2011.

Is this scent really supposed to smell like the Italian coast where Estee Lauder vacationed? I can't believe Estee stayed anywhere that stank this badly! Now, to be honest I have never smelled the original formulation. Maybe it was once a sunny little chypre. And God knows I do love my chypres! I can't get near this one without feeling anything but nausea and revulsion. I have read Tom Ford did the current reformulation and all I can say is - SHAME ON YOU, Tom!

1st May, 2011. (Last Edited: 2nd June, 2011.)