Perfume Directory

Azurée (1969)
by Estée Lauder

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Azurée information

Year of Launch1969
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 142 votes)

People and companies

HouseEstée Lauder
PerfumerBernard Chant
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Azurée

Azurée is a feminine perfume by Estée Lauder. The scent was launched in 1969 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Bernard Chant

Azurée fragrance notes

Reviews of Azurée

Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold floral/aldehydic/musky leather-patchouli prominent (green) accord with an herbal-bitter dry foundation and a sort of waxy (yes, like aromatic burning candles, a la Clinique Aromatics Elixir) soul. The Aramis classic's feminine counterpart (on the side of a more "unisex" Cabochard), finally brighter (muskier) and equally sophisticated (with a retro aldehydic/hesperidic mossy classically chypre architecture). I agree on that, if compared with White Linen, Pleasure or Alliage, Azuree is the most assertively complex and hard to wear of all. The initial aldehydic assault is heartbreaking and more than vagualy "stuffy", with a quickly "rising up" angular/crisp bergamot-patchouli's connection, a "burning candles waxy vibe", a green/herbal angular presence of forest resins/dry woods/musks and a prominent victorian pungent jasmine. Amazing opening under my "neo-victorian" nose with the vivid myth of Windsor Castle's aristocratic ceremonies. Patchouli is by soon bold and kind of "Royal" a la Floris while jasmine is sort of "acid" and spicy (likewise in Aromatics Elixir I vividly notice an old-school deliberately "retro/grandma" kind of mystic/incensey/waxy background). Overall the floral presence follows this "massively retro" glorious decadent style and the aldehydes/bergamot/ylang-ylang's co-work enhances this dominant "fat" and exotic/spicy effect, ideally in the middle between Aramis Classic, Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir and JHL. A musky ylang-ylang is a key element with its charge of subtle sophisticated "cultured" (Grand Madame's) bold exoticism. I have to say that anyway Azuree exudes a basically fresh and bright leather-vibe (despite its spicy/earthy/floral/aldehydic complexity). The leathery presence (finally refined and surprisingly smooth) jumps up gradually bright and light (and going on along the journey more and more markedly as for Aramis classic, just more florally, graciously and subtle), even in here supported by oakmoss, structural patchouli, musk, a tad of frankincense's austerity and a finally warmer/spicier ambergris-presence. The overall effect is still musky/green, classically "chyprey", dusty and dry (un-sweet, woody). Another glorious pillar of old-style classicism in the same league as Cabochard, Aramis and further giants from a disappeared "manneristic" era. Projection is more than good on my skin, longevity is in the average.
13th July, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Wow! The harshness of the initial aldehyde blast is nigh breathtaking and made me feel that this is quite umplesant, but soon the freshness of the bergamot becomes more evident and the top notes finish of much better.

The drydown - in a somewhat predictable pattern - enters a floral phase, with jasmin, not infrequently found in the heart notes of this house, and an unusually subdued ylang-ylang, which displays limited sweetness and is not the creamy and intensive variety, but is more of the lighter and slimmer type. Orris, cyclamen, and a crisp patchouli- both on the terse side - ensure that the tartness of the opening is not lost throughout the later phases of the development on this olfactory journey.

The base peters out in the aroma of a somewhat stolid white musk impression, a weak amber and a somewhat perfunctory oak moss, but - unlike in many other of Lauder's creations - remains on the hasher side, just the harsh side is attenuated with time.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

A fresh, and times unpleasantly synthetic spring composition, which for long stretches is not bad and quite stimulating in its crispness. At times predictable and at times solidly executed, it is just between mediocre and positive in the score - the good performance carries the day here. 3/5.
18th May, 2017
Wow, what an unusual powerhouse of a perfume. I can't decide if I can wear it or not... but I love it. I especially love the little sample-sprayed paper strip tucked in my purse -- smells like rich spicy leather, such a treat when I open my bag. On me, it's a little much. I feel like I'm convincing myself that I can wear it, but honestly it's a little strong, a little manly for me. However, I can see that maybe in 10-20 years (age 50 or 60) I might be ready for it -- not that it's for "old ladies" but it certainly takes a certain kind of confidence to pull this off the way it deserves. In the meantime, I'll keep trying it... it's pretty incredible.
30th April, 2015
Colormechris got it right in his review of this fragrance from 2011 - take away some floral elements and the gigantic slug of aldehydes, and you have Lauder for Men. Personally, I prefer Azurée. It has the
"Lauder base" that I so admire, it sparkles softly from top to bottom, and it also has a rather bitter, bad-tempered feel to it that suits me to a tee.

Brilliant work, and far ahead of it's time in 1969. A must for any serious fragrance fan.
12th October, 2014 (last edited: 15th February, 2015)
Genre: Leather

Azurée is a very dry aldehydic floral composition built atop an earthy, bitter leather chypre foundation. The aldehydes in Azurée are of the harsh, burning candle sort, and their extreme dominance no doubt contributes to the sharp, bitter impression that this fragrance makes after its first few minutes on the skin. I believe Michael Edwards classes Azurée as a “dry woods” (i.e. leather) scent in his Fragrances of the World compendium, so perhaps there’s some birch tar analogue or isoquinolone content to that bitterness as well. Once Azurée assembles its hard-edged green chypre core it stays running in place for several hours. It eventually mellows into a mossy leather and clean musk drydown, but nowhere in the progression does it become sweet.

Having worn it, I can see why Azurée never attained the popularity of White Linen, Pleasures, or even Alliage. With its persistent bitter edge and its dryness Azurée is not an easy fragrance to love. In concert with a heavy aldehyde content, Azurée’s austerity places it on a thin line between smelling like your grandmother and smelling like something a man ought to be wearing. No wonder nobody seems to know what to do with it. All that aside, I think Azurée is an interesting scent, and one with a unique character. I recommend anyone, male or female, who eschews sweetness in their fragrances or enjoys classic leather chypres to give Azurée a try.
09th June, 2014
The opening of this fragrance is bright and sparkling, like walking along a beach on a hot day. The leather is creamy, buttery and very pleasant. One hour later I take another sniff of the wrist - hang on I know that smell. It's Imperial Leather soap! Unfortunately for me, that's how it remained for the rest of the day. I can't for the life of me see how this is made for women, because it's definitely more suited to men. My husband is not the type of bloke to happily spray a female frag but if I could somehow decant it into an aftershave bottle I think he would use it.
Tania Sanchez gives it 5 stars and huge praise, but she also questions why no one mentions it. Maybe it's because some of us don't rate it so highly.
05th May, 2014 (last edited: 10th May, 2014)

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