Don't really know why this would'nt be sold as Unisex.
It's one of the Dark Green Galbanum vegetal bombs that's anchored with Moss Vetiver Oakmoss. A Peachy Citrus top has an acidic sweetness that almost goes Peach Orange Crystals bright. Through the centre is a stripe of something waxy where the Thyme a little dusty resides.
This is my kind of Sports Cologne
04th June, 2016 (last edited: 13th January, 2017)
Alliage (which is apparently now called Aliage, minus one L) is a perfect example of one of those filthy green 70's chypres that combine a lot of really unlikeable smells into something charismatic and somehow beautiful. At it's core, it's a chypre, so there's that green bergamot/galbanum/moss skeleton. The stars of the show are an upfront vinegar smell and jasmine fused with clove. It's sort of leathery as well, in that oily green chypre way, and there's a large slug of poopy civet in there, too. As the flowery clove and vinegar fade, a dusty sandalwood takes its place adorning the greens and the scent ends with a typical mossy chypre base.
Somehow, these vinegar/flower dirty chypres seem to smell fantastic on me - I find them quite masculine, though it's worth a warning that this is a bit of a challenging perfume. It's wonderful in its own filthy vinegar and poop kind of way, but I don't think this is going to be much of a crowd-pleaser. My only real criticism is that the concentration feels weak, like an EDT at best, leaving everything feeling unnecessarily quiet after a couple of hours. I would have enjoyed having the sandalwood/moss combination that comes in later be much more prominent, but I guess that's to be expected with the lower price point. That being said, I really like Alliage, so definitely still a thumbs up.
I made a point of tracking this down on a holiday to New York 2012, as it is almost unobtainable in the UK now. Purchased blind, as no tester available. I love this scent but it is just way too strong. Sillage about 1000 yards. I really have to be going outdoors to wear this, not one for the office. I still have half the bottle, which is a testament to how rarely it feels appropriate to wear a belter like this.
Estee Lauder's tribute to the scent of chrysanthemums in her creation of a sports scent for women, the first of that scent type.
Quite masculine in its chypre construction, it influenced the creation of Cartier's Must. It is a very green chypre with a tarragon note. Pleasant but undistinguished to my olfactory senses.
Its success, according to Roja Dove, was "short-lived."
Turin calls it a "powdery green" scent and gave it four stars. He notes that Lauder used a "ton" of galbanum to "make an anisic rose-and-vetiver fragrance feel dry and powdery.
Barbara Herman notes its "fresh and citrusy, with a forest backdrop of resiny pine, thyme, oak moss and vetiver.
Top notes: Galbanum, Peach, Citrus Oils
Heart notes: Jasmine, Rosewood, Thyme, Pine
Base notes: Vetiver, Myrrh, Musk, Oakum's
Alliage could serve as my reference green floral (or floral green), not because it’s the best one out there, or even because it’s my favorite (L’Eau de Ryokuei? Chamade? No. 19, anyone?) but because it embodies the crisp white flower and bitter galbanum accord in its simplest and most essential manner. It’s also one of the most potent of its breed, so that its archetypical green floral heart is hard to miss if you’re in the same room. To my own nose, Alliage is a bit too hard in texture, a bit too blatant in its structure, and more than a bit too loud to be broadcasting such a simple message. That said, Alliage will get the job done for anyone who wants a brisk, clean no-nonsense green floral perfume. I think it’s just as appropriate on a man as on a woman, though with the wallop it packs, I’d advise the men to go easy on the application.