Another masterpiece from Vincent Marcello (who gave us Yatagan and Z-14), this bitter, green scent is the epitome of 70s chic. Rich beyond belief and yet austerely green and piney, this scent is unlike anything that came before or after. This was the signature scent of a much-loved aunt of mine; as she got older and couldn’t smell it on herself, she wore more and more of it (and she was a perfume, cologne, powder and lotion kind of gal) and the sillage was nuclear. Estee Lauder scents are never known for their subtlety and this is the prime example. Used in moderation, however, this is pure genius. This is from a time when Barry White, Helen Reddy and KC and the Sunshine band were charting, but this chic lady eschewed the glittering disco ball for a Halston Qiana caftan and a Dubonnet on the rocks.
I love the opening. Green floral. Very classy but BIG. And it has tenacity- it lasted for hours, which is unusual for my skin. The drydown turned to baby powder, however. I had to scrub.
Private Collection is one of those few fragrances that I can honestly describe as timeless. It could have been done in 1923, 1953, or as it happened, 1973. It’s not merely a classic, but a classical structure: a soapy, green aldehydic floral on a dry chypre platform. It’s stately and reserved, yet just short of stuffy, perhaps because of the keen, bitter edge lent by its prominent galbanum note. The opening burst of powdery greens and aldehydes peels back partway to reveal a clean jasmine and narcissus accord as crisp as a starched, pressed collar. Private Collection runs a linear course once the green floral chypre heart coalesces, the major developmental event being the emergence of a dry, yet rounded rose from among the other floral notes.
Like many of Estée Lauder’s offerings, Private Collection is potent and enduring. It projects well off the skin for several hours before settling down into its moss, white musk, and wood foundations. Cool, clean, and almost entirely bereft of sweetness, Private Collection is utterly genderless, and used in moderation it would make a great alternative to conventional “fresh” men’s scents.
This is for the vintage pure perfume
The opening is way too green for my taste, razor sharp and dry, and even though there are flowers in the background they never really make an entrance. There is some sweetness in the hyacint and the honeysuckle but overall this is a severe green chypre, all business. Not my cup of tea, but I will give it a thumbs up for the sophistication and the undeniable quality of the ingredients. If you are a lover of green scents, this may be just what you are looking for.
02nd June, 2014 (last edited: 04th June, 2014)
An intense, bitter, green opening that is quite stunning. I'm usually not a fan of green scents as I find them usually too light and airy, no substance. This is quite different.
There is a rich depth to the initial green, citrus notes - a generous dose of galbanum.
The heart floral notes (jasmine, narcissus, rose, something called reseda) are richly blended and beautifully balanced.
The dry down to pine, oak moss, musk, cedar and amber is subtle and powdery.
Very complex and Lauder's own persona private scent for years before she allowed its release.
One of the very best floral chypres available.