White Linen (1978)
by Estée Lauder

With its hair singeing blast of soapy aldehydes, White Linen has got to be one of the world’s most instantly recognizable perfumes. (Others include Angel, Fracas, Mitsouko, and Chanel No. 5.) It’s also one of the most aptly named. It’s so thoroughly bleached and laundered that no hint of dirt, color, or organic matter clings to it. Hence White Linen is the ultimate in anti-sex, a chemical chastity belt of impenetrable strength. I myself have always found it harsh and vinegary, and can never quite disassociate it from women of a certain age. On the other hand, it is unique, and in its soft, powdery tonka bean and sandalwood drydown, even beautiful. Ironically, were colored blue and labeled “_______ Sport” I could imagine it appealing to the same men who try to obscure every trace of mammalian masculinity from their skin by wearing scents like Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue or Acqua di Gio.

How I wish that I could find the male equivalent of White Linen, but encountering this in any circumstance is a delight. The aldehyde and citric accord in the opening lends an incredibly taut feel to the early bars of this fragrance. The wonderfully energetic mid notes evoke scenes of Edwardian ablutions in sumptuous Manor House settings, with crisp starched clothes laid out for the day ahead. This is an olfactory sorbet, cleansing the palate, then providing new, fresh tones for your own edification. A masterpiece.

White Linen is a beautiful, crisp fragrance. I love it's bright character (thanks to the aldehydes). And strangely, about an hour into it, it slighty reminds me of a churchy incense--but I've never heard anyone else say that about it! I just think White Linen is an intoxicating fragrance and I love to wear it.

WL is horrid on me-- all aldehydes and soap. It took 2 1/2 hours for it to settle down into something I don't want to scrub off, and even after four hours I just plain don't like it. I'm pretty sure I over-applied, but even with that consideration this is not something I would ever enjoy.

Another classic that undoubtedly deserves the label. White Linen is a beautiful feminine fragrance that is remarkably fresh and modern considering its date of introduction, yet it still is classic enough that it’s dignity and position is unassailable. It’s labeled a aldehydic floral but I’m not sure that the name applies because it has floral notes but it doesn’t really smell flowery – I get a pleasant rose that is not at all obtrusive, although it does properly place the fragrance in the feminine ranks IMO. I don’t get the lilac that is often mentioned. Primarily what I get is the fresh, soapy “texture” that is the hallmark of the fragrance’s reputation. It’s a disguised white floral / amber / cedar texture that is wonderful in the sense that it’s hard to get tired of it. White Linen is one classic that hasn’t traveled the path to obsolescence… thumb’s up, for sure.

My nose was awakened several months ago, just out of the blue, and I went from being indifferent (if not actually hostile) to perfume to being an avid sniffer of every scent there is. Before, I disliked having anyone "impose" their choice of scent on me, and found all scents registered the same. But with my new awareness I am overly sensitive to many wonderful nuances and subtleties, and can't help wondering what will happen next? (It might disappear as suddenly as it appeared.) Anyway I love White Linen, even though I did not expect to from what I had read about it, and the image I had of EL perfumes. But it is gorgeous, especially after it settles for a few minutes. It makes me feel beautiful and joyous. That said, I do not, and would not, wear it everyday. Just on glorious and wonderful days where everything is going my way!