Asja (1992)
by Fendi

1st try not sure, nice but a little clovey.. cloves seem to make scents too serious/somber to me. 2nd try smells sweeter, nice. 3rd try compared w/ Coco, has perfumy metallic offputting element, & too much clove. I like the packaging tho, quirky, goes with the foodiness of the spice blend, & protected from light.

Incense spilled on an old, alcohol-stained Indian rug. I really feel they went wrong with this one, but, as always, perfume is so subjective.

The name "Asja" announces the presence of an Oriental like a banner waving. Fortunately, it lives up to the big expectations of its name. Here is a spicy Oriental that manages to smell expensive and restrained, different from so many others, even while sharing notes with them. Cinnamon (along with vanilla) give it immediate likeability. There must be more spices than this, perhaps clove (one of my favorites) but far less heavy-handed than the dose in Coco (which I love.)
The fruit is divine: raspberry, apricot, peach, and bergamot. What a successful combination of aromas. All of it is accomplished without ending up smelling like a fruit salad. Asja is classy, like a glass of wine cordial, or a fruit liquor, with an "aged," blended, "fermented" characteristic that makes it simultaneously strong and mellow.
This fruity, spicy Oriental shows great restraint in terms of sweetness. Maybe that is what makes it unique. The bottle is gorgeous, a work of art, like black and gold laquored rice bowls.

Dear plum of my heart! Here in the cheery orchard where you exude a certain sensuality and a definite love of life! Here where the ornate murmurs of plum blossom in Japanese gardens are overtaken by the warm and sultry ripeness of Mediterranean nights! Are you too obvious? Surely not! Let us be friends! (de Charlus).

Faithful to its name, Asja is all you could expect from a classical old-time oriental, but has a modern, up-bit twist that will make it adored even by those who typically dislike Orientals.

Rested on a sound foundation of all that could make a perfume an oriental - patchouli, musk, amber and clove bud absolute – Asja brings light and sparkle to this theme by using a well-balanced heart of a floral bouquet consisting primarily of carnations, and topped with a mouth-watering fruity accord.

Asja opens with a seductively luscious fruity notes that are sweet without being cloying and fresh without being flat or one-dimensional. The top not is engaging and inviting, and truly states what the perfume really is: a beautiful and rich, yet not overpowering Oriental, that is fruity and floral and not in the least cloying.

The eugenol theme (eugenol is the main constituent of clove buds and carnations) that characterizes this composition through all of its layers is pervasive but does not overpower the blend, and is not medicinal or sharp as you may expect:
There is something about the overall first impression of the top notes that brings to mind a rich, full-bodied mulled wine...As applied on the skin, a freshly-cut carnation flower emerges, immensely sweet and fresh, thanks to the addition of the round, rich and luscious fruity notes of peach and apricot, and a hint of citrus freshness.

The carnation heart is sweet and floral, and is rounded by exotic, fruity-floral notes of ylang ylang and a rich, subtle rose. It is also backed up by other spices that slowly emerge as the perfume develops on the skin: primarily Allspice Berry – the exotic large peppercorn-like spice, bold and interestingly dry and multi-layered. Allspice smells a lot like a pumpkin pie spice – a combination of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg.

The eugenol note at the base is dry and sweet at once, like clove-bud absolute, which is much more subtle, refined and feminine than the essential oil. The accord at the base is especially rich and lovely – the orient at its best: patchouli, a hint of dry spices, amber, musk, honey and vanilla, and perhaps even a hint of dry moss.

Asja is a real treat, and an easy-to-wear Oriental. It is sensual, stimulating, soothing and comforting all at once. It’s a perfume you could wear everywhere for any reason (just take care of the doses) – you will enjoy it as well as others around you!
It somewhat reminds me of the charming and un-demanding Cheap and Chic by Moschino – just like it, Asja is a little flirty and mischievous, and begs for being enjoyed without hesitation or a second thought – just put it on and have fun!

Top notes: Carnation, Apricot, Peach
Heart notes Carnation, Clove bud oil, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Allspice berry
Base notes: Patcouli, Amber, Musk, Clove bud Absolute, Honey absolute




Floral-Oriental
Top Notes: Fruits, citrus
Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, Egyptian jasmine, ylang-ylang, cinnamon, nutmeg, mimosa
Base Notes: Sandalwood, musk, vanilla, amber

I have been wearing Asja on and off since the early 1990s and absolutely adore it. It has some of the same qualities as the Fendi signature scent (the original one), including a fruity-sweet top and a balsamic base. But instead of the powerful waft of patchouli that makes Fendi signature what it is (and renders it pretty much unwearable for me), Asja instead is defined by a brilliant blending of sandalwood, cinnamon and nutmeg perfect in its spiciness and prevented from coming on too sharply by milder touches of mimosa and ylang ylang. Classified as a floral oriental, Asja is mysterious and thoroughly opulent. I would easily rate it as one of my top five Oriental fragrances of all time.