Givenchy III (1970)
by Givenchy

This review is for the 2007 reissue. Unfortunately, the notes listed for this on the tester (and in other sources) are just a skeleton of the 1970 version. Whether any of the other original ingredients are present is very hard to say, as I never smelled the original; but it is just possible that Givenchy had some reason to give just the bare bones of the notes, and that not all of the original pyramid was eliminated. I certainly hope that is the case. In any event, the 2007 juice is still beautiful, and while it doesn't have a great deal of longevity, it is quite lovely while it lasts. It preserves the chypre character, right down to the oakmoss, which is commendable, because it is now restricted under EU rules. This version is available only in EdT. Whatever the answer to the question of reformulation, this is a very good scent — a definite "thumbs up."

I'm thrilled that Givenchy III has been reissued. I'm also very happy that the list of ingredients on the label includes oakmoss.

Givenchy III's animalic component is quite subdued but is strong enough to categorize it as is a dry floral/animalic chypre.

The opening is a green combination of galbanum, aldehydes and some dry fruit notes and bergamot.

The heart is a white floral centered around jasmine with notes of muget, rose, orris, carniation and jonquil.

The base is an excellent warm, woody and mossy patchouli/oakmoss with some amber, betiver, castoreum and myrrh.

This is a fine chypre for both men and women.

What a nice surprise it is to find an old-school green Chypre re-issued. I must assume that the formula was changed to compensate for oakmoss (and/or other) restrictions. Still, it emerges relatively unscathed. Notes are as follows:
Top: aldehydes, galbanum, peach bergamot
Middle: gardenia, jasmine, jonquil, carnation, rose, lily, orris
Base: amber, patchouli, oakmoss, myrrh, vetiver, castoreum
On the whole, I like Miss Dior better, and so I wish it the same luck with its reformulation. Givenchy III is soapier and less sweet. It opens with an unmistakable blast of galbanum plus a big slug of aldehydes. Then it moves quickly into a pleasnat spicy floral accord with peach floating overall. As it wears, it displays the delightful, drastic development of this genre, moving gradually away from sharp, green top notes toward its smooth amber base. The addition of vetiver makes the base tangy and clear, rather than sweet and full of labdanum. If Miss Dior was too heavy, earthy, and sweet for you, give the cleaner, more sparkling green Chypre of Givenchy III a try.

On me it always smelled like smoke.

After an intensely aromatic opening the newly revived Givenchy III drifts into an unusually dry, herbaceous, yet indolic white flower accord supported by a firm woody-mossy base. The enduring aromatic notes color the bold chypre structure a dusty green that’s not too far removed from the great Mitsouko – that is if you could imagine Guerlain’s classic without a trace of its trademark peach. In fact, I’d happily recommend Givenchy III for men who love chypre scents but are afraid that Mitsouko will leave them smelling somehow “feminine.” (Not a problem for me, but I know it is for some.) Regardless of gender, Givenchy III is a great chypre fragrance, and I welcome its reissue as reassurance that the fragrance industry is not yet irredeemably degenerate. My only complaint is that it's oddly short lived on my skin.

Sexy, confident, elegant (but dated - not that being "dated" is always a bad thing with the identikit sugary fragrances around).