Perfume Directory

Cabochard (1959)
by Grès

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Cabochard information

Year of Launch1959
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 305 votes)

People and companies

HouseGrès
PerfumerBernard Chant
PackagingAlix Gres
Parent CompanyDenz > Art & Fragrance

About Cabochard

Cabochard is a feminine perfume by Grès. The scent was launched in 1959 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Bernard Chant. The bottle was designed by Alix Gres

Reviews of Cabochard

I owned this decades ago. I liked it then. I haven't tried any modern version, nor will I seek it.

I recently tried it again, from a vintage sample. It has time-travel, top notes. I definitely remember this. Big galbanum and sage take the spotlight. Green, and nearly bitter. Dirt-dark jasmine and musty ylang in the heart. Orris and rose play old-fashioned games. Geranium is the wallflower here.

The base has a moss, woody, slight green, and leathery tinge. Slight musky, animal accord. Get your hands on vintage, to experience this. I'm sure the reform versions suck.
10th December, 2018
ad_scott Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Dusty leather, white flowers and an extinguished cigarette after the rain. It has a kind of fresh/damp/wet feeling to it. Different and unisex at a bargain price tag. EDT and EDP are almost identical albeit the latter has a stronger punch including better sillage and longevity.
07th November, 2018
There's a pretty big story behind Cabochard de Grés (1959), which is appropriate given this is a big, big perfume. Alix "Madame" Grés herself returned from a trip to India and imagined a perfume that captured her memories of the experience. Her first concept was assigned to Guy Robert, who came back with a light and airy tuberose scent that Alix loved, but her advisors said wouldn't sell in the mid-century market of strong "liberated women" chypres like Piguet Bandit (1944), and Estée Lauder Youth Dew (1953), so a second fragrance composed by Bernard Chant (future unofficial Lauder house perfumer through until the 80's) was commissioned with these bolder trends in mind. Alix Grés initially decided to release both fragrances under the names "Chouda" and "Cabochard" respectively. The former is Hindi slang for copulation (shortened from "bakachouda") while the latter simply means "headstrong". Suffice it to say that Chouda de Grés never saw market, but a lifetime supply was produced for personal use by Madame Grés herself, while Cabochard de Grés was the one everyone else was able to buy. I think this was probably for the best, as despite Cabochard following conventions of the day, it's specifics would later open a whole new door for men and women scent-wise, being a green-topped floral leather chypre that inspired nearly all of Bernard Chant's future output with Estée Lauder, and similar green things from Chanel, Givenchy, Dior, Jacomo, Revlon, Avon, and so many more. Cabochard was made for the smoking and drinking woman, the commanding woman that couldn't be tied down by a husband because she had things to do in her life, and wasn't afraid to crack a whip. Guys in modern times who love leather could certainly love this too, as it's of surprising quality given the palty prices it commands.

The smell of Cabochard really wasn't super ground-breaking in the leather chypre realms, as Caron Tabac Blonde (1919), Knize Ten (1924), Chanel Cuir de Russie (1924), Lanvin Scandal (1933), Alfred Dunhill for Men (1934) and MEM English Leather (1949) had all infused various degrees of nostril burn from light tanning aldehydes to full-on gasoline depending on the scent, but what Cabochard did differently from the rest of them was add a dollop of androgynous sharp green galbanum, a grassy top note that would come to dominate designer fragrances in the following decades, and mixed with aldehydes and leather, galbanum packs quite a punch. Much like we see with ambroxan and norlimbanol in the 21st century, the galbanum and leather combo was on display with moderation in Cabochard, then subsequently dialed up in a loudness war little by little as competitors emerged, but here, the hefty petrol green combo is at harmony with the rest of the composition. Galbanum and leather is obviously joined by hesperidic citrus notes which were also gathering favor at the time, with herbs like clary sage and tarragon finishing out the top. Rose, jasmine, geranium, all notes Bernard Chant would continue to abuse in future works are here in the heart, and despite this being marketed as a feminine for Grés, by the 70's it would be clear that Cabochard was more of the Ur-Aramis "Laudernade" accord than anything else. Ylang-ylang and orris also make a show here, but by the base we're moved into familiar chypre territory with mossy layers of dry woods and vetiver ontop a re-asserted leather note with just a smidge of castoreum. Cabochard still had to appeal to the ladies, so we're not drowning in the animalic castoreum like in Bogart One Man Show (1980) or Chanel Antaeus (1981), but it supports the moss bite and leather crackle nicely. Cabochard wears well almost year-round like most green leathers, but probably best in extreme heat or cold, where different sides of it's wild dynamic will show through.

Cabochard is a must-buy for fans of petrol leather from any part of the gender spectrum, and wears rather masculine in the 21st century but likely seemed unisex even in 1959 due to the high amount of green notes. A CIS-gendered heterosexual woman can still very much pull off Cabochard given that she's the boss in the office or head artist at the local tattoo parlour, but otherwise this is way too butch for the "fruitchouli floral" mall scent crowd associated with modern perfume concepts of femininity. Guys who own Aramis (1965) will get a kick out of knowing that it was a re-tooled Cabochard with rounder florals and moss, with a higher dose of aldehydes, and wearing Cabochard side-by-side with Aramis will reveal it to be stiffer, greener, more bitter, and ironically more intimidating, so therefore more "masculine" than Aramis outside of the higher presence of rose and jasmine, which these days are stuffed into a lot of masculine fragrances from the niche segment anyway. Eau de toilette is the way to go for a more terrifying top and greater sillage, but the eau de parfum will last longer whilst glowing closer to the skin with a heavier floral bass riff. Vintage will have higher animalics and oakmoss, but modern is tamer but still damn good. Like most virile leather chypre scents, there's no "right" time to wear Cabochard, so headstrong ladies, gentlemen, and kind folk will just have to take their chances with it. If the 60's through 80's green chypres were a bordello, 1959's Cabochard de Grés is the head mistress. She may not be as spry or loud as those under her keep, but she's the one you should fear most. Absolutely riveting stuff!
21st September, 2018
Cabochard’s a green, twiggy, russian leather, with an attractive hint of spicy floral like geranium or carnation. I find the leather to be similar to the petroleum type of my favorite, Knize Ten. Underrated, perhaps, and surely a bargain these days. Man or woman if you like Bandit, Aramis, so on and so forth… Russian Leather, yes!
08th January, 2018
It's not the same as the original but still better than most of the sickening sweet perfumes today. I love Cabochard in all of its iterations.
17th November, 2017
Cabochard is a perfume classic made for talented and mysterious Madam Gres by Bernard Chant, the maker of famous perfumes such as Aramis by Aramis or Aromatics Elixir by Clinique. Inspired by her journey to India and her stubbornness, the perfume got its name - “headstrong”. It appeared on the market in 1959. In a time when lifestyle magazines were launched and the main question before every night out was: what perfume to give to your loved one? Middle-class men and women began working on their scent wardrobes and the perfume finally got the place it deserves, not only as a means to smell nice, but also a way to express personal style and identity.

When I talk about perfumes I often talk about character. That particularity is seen in fragrance notes from top to bottom and it clearly states who it is with every minute or hour on the skin. I’ll say it right now, Cabochard has character. And lots of it. Actually, to say that Cabochard has character is like you said the sky is blue, and the best cake in the world is cheesecake. That is a given. It was built like that, from the very beginning. Cabochard's basis is the classic chypre base of oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, and musk. Then come floral essences of jasmine and rose, enriched by upper notes of green galbanum, juicy ylang-ylang. But above it all is the leather. That dark, dominant, animalistic leather that harmonizes other notes and enthralls them the to its will. The beauty terrifying and seductive at the same time. I immediately thought of Galadriel from Lord of the Rings saying “In place of a Dark Lord, you would have a queen! Not dark, but beautiful and terrible as the dawn! Treacherous as the sea! Stronger than the foundations of the earth! All shall love me, and despair!” But the magic of Cabochard comes with a price. When you get used to chypre leather perfumes, you will never wear anything else. All other perfumes will lose its appeal.

The perfumerists of that time loved to experiment with isobutyl quinoline, the scent note of skin. Their experiments gave us top perfumes like Bandit by Piguer or Cabochard. When I have isobutyl quinoline on one tester and Cabochard on the other I realize how magical the perfumist job is. Yes, I feel isobutyl quinoline in the perfume but there it has a completely new character. Soft, rounded, almost eatable. Like cocoa - creamy and a bit spicy. Different from Bandit. Different compared to anything else. Its own and stubborn. Completely Cabochard. So, don’t let the trend of fancy perfumes that offer nothing and want everything get to you. Defend your right to top quality stubbornly. When novelties disappoint you, you’ll always have perfume classics like Cabochard to return to and who will never fail you. The only question is….will you fail them?
04th November, 2017

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Vintage CABOCHARD Gres Eau de Toilette 1 oz 30 ml - Free Shipping

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Gres Cabochard Paris Glass Stopper Parfum Bottles France (2) Empty 1 OZ Vintage

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~ Cabochard Perfume ~ GRES ~ 3.3 oz / 100ml Eau de Toilette EDT ~ Unboxed

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CABOCHARD GRES PARIS PURE PARFUM PERFUME 30ml/1oz RARE

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GRES Cabochard EAU DE PARFUM PERFUME SPRAY 50 ml 1.69 FL. OZ. Sealed in Plastic

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Gres Cabochard 6.9 ml 1/4 oz Mini Eau De Toilette EDT parfum perfume Jan19B

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Vintage Collectible 1960s Cabochard Gres Glass Perfume Bottle Paris Velvet Bow

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❤️ RARE Vintage Glass Bottle GRES CABOCHARD Parfum Perfume,Glass Stopper☆☆☆☆☆

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CABOCHARD Women Spray Perfume 30 ml / 1 oz Parfums Gres Eau de Toilette 75% Full

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PARFUMS GRES CABOCHARD EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 3.4 OZ BOXED

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NEW SEALED CABOCHARD PARFUMS GRES PARIS EAU DE TOILETTE NATURAL SPRAY 3.4 FL OZ

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Cabochard EDT Splash Parfums Gres 2 fl oz. Vintage 1980's 95% Full

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Cabochard by Gres, Paris;  Eau de Toilette Spray; 1 fl. oz bottle; 50% full

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CABOCHARD by Parfums Gres Eau De Toilette Spray (Tester) 3.4 oz/100 ml Women

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Cabochard By Parfums Gres Eau De Parfum Spray 3.4 Oz

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