Mitsouko (1919)
by Guerlain

This is a review of the parfum.
There is no other parfum that reduces me to the inability to form complete sentences.

Long, sharp shadows
Mounds of soft moss
Damp stones under dark clouds
Cool, yet inviting flesh
Freshly dug orris, still damp with earth
A dark glance beneath a darker lace veil
Tart threads still attached to a fresh peach seed
Mezmerizing smoke curling from kyara

...words fail me further when my husband wears it!

Oh dear. Luca Turin notwithstanding, I just cannot wear this, much as I respect it. it is just too much peach or else the vanilla-peach accord is too much for my skin. Alas, I like the idea of Mitsouko more than the thing itself.

I agree, Mitsouko is God. But, I am a guy and wear it often and know others who do as well.

I tried this after reading of a short story in which identical twins could only be told apart by their fragrances - one wore Shalimar, the other Mitsuoko. I was a little wary after finding that Jicky smelt absolutely old lady on me, rather like trying on a stolen crimplene wedding dress. Surely this old frag would be the same? Yet it smells wonderful on me - the childlike note of parma violets counterbalances the maturity of it, and every time I smell it on me I feel a little giddy and minxy. A great scent for a sophisticated yet naughty occasion; think Mae West or Monroe on the grating.

This is a weird fragrance.

I tried both the edt and edp out of historical curiosity and when applied too much with the applicator from the vial or spritz it on too much you get bombarded by oakmossy, bookish POWDER. Lots and lots of cloying powder. The edt turns straight to powder. Headache inducing. I've washed it off twice it got too cloying. However despite this it is also intriguing. On the skin it does melt into the old Guerlinade with perhaps some spices and that's rather nice, no one can say that's a bad smell, it smells somewhat like baby powder and dried peaches I guess.

I guess the trick must be extremely light handling, otherwise you turn into your grandmother or great grandmother complete with blue hair, painted on eyebrows aquamarine eye shadow real quick. Not to say that it's feminine per se, it's just got that old lady je ne se quoi......cultural association more than actual scent. Heed this warning specially for those fellow straight men wanting to steal supposed great scents from the ladies and use them as unisex. This is sweet in a different way than many modern male colones, you just got to like a little bit of powder when used in moderation, otherwise it's pretty much incense, dried fruit and Guerlinade. Too much and you're feel self conscious. It is weird. I did not get the famed peach note that everyone was talking about at first. All I got was a bit spicier version of Vol de Nuit minus perhaps iris. Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko and Vol de Nuit are all somewhat related somewhere in their composition, perhaps in the base. Mitsouko is perhaps the best one though, with Vol de Nuit being behind.....

However the more I smell the edp version, the more I pick up on the warmth. Actually smelling the small decant vial I got I pick up on perhaps the middle notes, there's a note there that reminds me ever so slightly of dried apricots, so I suppose that is the peach note. It is a lurking fruit that's for sure. I need to actually wear it out and see if people react to it or I can get over the slight sinus headache I get from wearing it. Certainly a mystery, it really does skim the line between love and hate....

So guys if interested in this, I would be really hesitant in application, perhaps only small dabs on wrists and neck, or spray on just on your jacket. Being said I got my eyes on Sous le Vent.

I love this and have recently started wearing it. I think of it as similar to Opium and Coco, a lovely wintery evening perfume.