This one crept up on me. I got myself a 2 ml sample of the EdT because I wanted to explore some of the classic Guerlain fragrances. I did not expect to really love it, but it did sound interesting, and I thought it might help me understand what a chypre smells like.
On the first try I did not even know whether I liked it or not. Compared to most of my (rather Chanel heavy) fragrance collection, this one smelled a little odd, a bit difficult, slightly off even. It did, however, smell interesting, not generic, and certainly not boring, and somehow I kept going back to that sample to try some more.
It took me a few wears to distinguish and label the different notes I smelled. I definitely get peach. It's not a bright and sunny peach, but more of a mysterious dark peach. I also get a little of the jasmine and some subtle woods in the base, but neither of these notes are the star of the show.
The real defining note for me is what I've been lovingly calling the Guerlain funk. In the case of Mitsouko, it's a stale-flower-vase-water funk; vegetal, fuzzy and cool. It gives this fragrance a deep dark, murky green feel. This might sound unattractive, but it isn't. Combined with the dark gold sparkle of the peach, it transports me to a shadowy pond in a enchanted forest, where frogs just may transform into princes.
And by the time I used the last of my 2 ml sample I felt sad that I would now be without this fragrance, so I bought a full bottle.
I have the sneaking suspicion that I'll continue to like this more the more I wear it.
This review is for the 2014 EDT, which is reputed to be among Guerlain's better reformulations. I also have a 2015 EDP, and can't recommend that one - it has a sour note, and might have been among the batch issued prior to Guerlain's 2015 Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue production halt due to a problem with one of their shared ingredients (that issue was resolved, and production resumed in 2016). The 2015 suspension involved only the EDP and parfum extrait concentrations of those fragrances - not the EDT.
Mitsouko EDT, while of course lighter and thinner than the parfum, is true to its heritage and actually smells more like my vintage juice than the 2015 EDP (referenced above). The EDT is fresh, crisp and well delineated, and it even has a little of the bite we associate with oakmoss (though modern Mitsouko contains only a fractionated version of that restricted ingredient). So I agree with those who say that 2014 was a very good year for Mitsouko EDT.
I really want to like this. It doesn't smell at all how I expected. It has a lovely woody clove scent that i love, but I can't get around another prominent note that smells perfectly like freshly opened band aids. This is the edt version, so that might make a difference.
It's bright and sunny. I smell peach and ginger and mace and honey. Even so, I would keep it for spring and summer. It's got a little spice to it as it opens up, and while I wouldn't call this a night scent /for me/, I tend to wear masculine perfumes at night, so this might be deep enough for someone who prefers florals in the daytime.
Mitsouko edt is a fun, interesting fragrance, reminiscent of a leather handbag filled with lotions and other secrets, with some bright fruit and sweet flowers, peach and jasmine, I gather.
17th April, 2016 (last edited: 18th April, 2016)
Unbelievably multi-faceted and ever-evolving during the course of a single wearing, and different to my nose every day I wear it. It seems like everything affects it, and tilts it one way or another along a burnished gold spectrum: the temperature outside, the time of year, my mood, the alignment of the planets, what I had for lunch :). Even though some days it's not for me, it is simply without peer and worthy of its pedestal. A treasure.