Fleur de Feu (1949)
by Guerlain

This is a rare and discontinued parfum extrait from the post-war 40's created by Jaques Guerlain. It is presented in a tall crystal bottle paying homage to the skyscrapers built in that era. This is a well blended floral with a unique guerlinade base and is meant to evoke the fiery flowers of an island volcano. It starts with a rich carnation note that give it its fiery quality. To my nose it has notes similar to nahema's rose and chamade's ylang ylang. Although the spicy accord of carnation is prominent I also detect aldehydes and jasmine in the composition. The middle note is a luscious powdery orris that is reminscent of Liu. But where Liu edp goes to a sweet powdery drydown Fleur de Feu becomes deliciously warm and caramelized gourmand, it is not cloying or foody but comforting like the feel of warm cashmere in the cold - I think the base has notes of patchouli, vanilla and tonka bean.