Parure (1975)
by Guerlain

I tried an old bottle of Parure, and I have to admit, I don't smell all of the notes that are supposed to be included. The plum is particularly weak, so I'm not getting the correct impression of a fruity Chypre. However, the oakmoss is particularly elegant in this sample. The fragrance starts off with a pinch of citrus and then a nice, dry combination of oakmoss and vetiver. A gentle leather comes in, but that is where the development ceases; from here on out, it merely fades in a pretty manner. This sample smells decidedly vintage, so I couldn't see it succeeding in today's market, but that doesn't mean I don't like it. Indeed, the quality of the Guerlain ingredients shines. This old bottle of Parure is better than many brand-new samples I have tried.

This went on lovely on me, all delicate fruity florals. Dry down, however, was a tragedy. The whole delicate balance fell into a sharp, medicinal powdery tangle, much like medicated foot powder.

Very nice. It is still available as eau de toilette (bee bottle like Apres L'Ondee). Lovely, soft, grown-up.

Parure
Since 1919, Guerlain had sought to create a new Mitsouko, in other words another outstanding flowery-fruity chypre. Jean Paul Guerlain strived to accomplish this in 1975 with Parure - although according to Luca Turin, it's more an oriental fragrance, if anything. While Chamade is romantic and introvert, Parure has an outgoing theme of luxury and elegance. You don't wear Parure to show your feelings, but to show yourself, and Parure indeed means 'finery' or 'jewellery'. The fragrance starts with a Mitsoukoishly dark and noble mix of bergamot, oakmoss and spices, but ends in balsamic plum, rose and wood. Also its bottle, made by sculptor Robert Granai, is among the most luxurious of the Guerlain presentations, with a 'slightly outrageous stopper', according to Jean Paul Guerlain, inspired by a glowing sea view sunset. Because of low demand, Parure is no longer in production.

Family: chypre, fruity. Top notes: bergamot. Middle notes: plum, lilac, rose, jasmine. Base notes: oakmoss, spices, wood.

head note : bergamot
heart notes : plum, lilac, rose, jasmine
base notes : wood, earthy forest note, spices

Kim Cattrall (Sex in the City-Samantha) wears this, and it would seem like a very good choice for her. Parure is a very sophisticated scent, and is one of the Guerlains that shouldn't be allowed to wear until you're at least 35 ;-)! Initially is is fairly sharp, which I would put down to the bergamot, but quickly deepens into a very warm, intense, mouthwatering plum, combined with a heady dose of (primarily) lilac and jasmine. It has a great staying power and works fabulously on its own, or it can be layered with soliflores for a "calmer" scent – I use Aqua Allegoria Pivoine Magnifica with it!

Oh dear. There's something in this that just doesn't work on me. Ah well, we can't have everything.