Parure (1975)
    by Guerlain



    Parure Fragrance Notes

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    Showing 1 to 6 of 28 reviews.

    rbaker's avatar
    rbaker


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    Combining an attenuated bergamot with a spicy prune makes for a very unique opening, which leads to a distinctly dark-floral drydown. A beautiful rose initially, and further into the middle notes a gorgeous jasmine appears - delicious. In the further development the standout is the lilac: at times harsh and nigh smoky, it mixes with spicy tones and moss to a leathery base of distinction, that in the base is complimented by an oak moss that is quite restrained on my skin. Absolute superb quality of ingredients, smoothly blended whilst maintaining great structure and development, with good silage and projection. I get six hours of longevity. One of the most creative classic Guerlain perfumes and an unusual chypre.

    01st April, 2014

    JackTwist's avatar
    JackTwist
    United States United States

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    Superb leather herbal chypre

    One of Guerlain's most unique scents - it beings for me with a sweet leather accord, which is permeated by a dry, crisp herbal accord (the clary sage, which here resembles caraway seed) and then these two float over a dry, deep and fragrant rose for the dry down. A marvelous chypre.

    Released in 1975 and discontinued, according to the Guerlain site, in 1989, due to restrictions on material use, despite the Basenotes page stating it is in production.

    Gorgeous and unique bottle. Over the top stopper, meant to resemble ocean waves.

    The twelve ingredients: Bergamot, Plum, Rose, Jasmine, Lilac, Oakmoss, Galbanum, Clary Sage, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Leather

    Finding this for sale is difficult and costly, so do sample first, but definitely worth an investment.

    Pros: Unique among scents - leathery and herbal supported by rose
    Cons: It is discontinued since 1989, despite Basenotes stating it is in production

    05 June, 2013

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    I had read that Parure Extrait was starring a richer plum note than the EdT. However, I did not find this to be the case. Both my Extrait and the EdT are old stock (peachy color - not yellow) as Parure is said to be reformulated and thinned before its eventual discontinuation (it was only the EdT that survived longer). Having said that, I think the top notes of my Extrait are partly ruined (for the first 20 minutes), before a big dark rose takes over dramatically. Parure does remind me of the old vintage Nahema Extrait, which comes as no big surprise given the timing and the fact that Jean Paul Guerlain is both their creator. It is an absolutely stunning creation (it is so dark and brooding), so dense and complex smelling that I like to think of it as the 'Caron among the Guerlains'. I can see the often quoted reference of Parure being Mitsouko with plum instead of peach as well. However, I find Parure is much more a dark rose chypré than a fruity chypré.
    A few additional observations:
    - the 'leather note' is woven into the complex dark rose accord with oakmoss instead of an own note to my nose.
    - it's been said but true that the EdT and Extrait do not differ greatly in the overall picture. The Extrait features a big dramatic rose, which the EdT lacks to a great extent. On the other hand, this makes the EdT even more obviously chypré in comparison, also dryer and slightly more frugal and hence more straight-forward chypré (if I make sense or express myself clearly enough).
    - Longevity is very good, although this refers mainly to a naturally very long drawn oakmoss final. The progression time from top through Parure main heart accord is not even two hours (EdT) resp. three hours (Extrait), before the oakmoss drydown is the sole dominant player.
    - Parure is impossibly vintage and dated smelling (it's well a compliment, but a fact, too) no matter how
    well preserved or fresh your jus is. I think Parure is an absolute stunner when smelled outdoors - picture sunshine, fresh crisp spring air and the smell of nature's green returning after a long and harsh winter. Parure resembles both the dark and heavy side as well as the fresh, bright new life (the dark winter season finally making room for spring).
    Parure is an absolute treasure, a gem of times bygone and a very typical Guerlain, too, although very complex and dense (which prompted my Caron comparison) as such! As a chypré, I might find Parure better contrasted and therefore more interesting and appealing than Mitsouko. Still, albeit a totally different fragrance in nature, my favorite Guerlain chypré is Sous le Vent.
    A truly breathtaking perfume to experience!

    08 March, 2012

    systeme_d's avatar
    systeme_d
    United States United States

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    Vintage edt:
    An opulent chypre, with a dollop of plummy sweetness in an otherwise rosy heart. The drydown is a symphony of leather, a light touch of patchouli, and gorgeous, pre-IFRA oakmoss.

    It makes me purr with delight.

    26 October, 2011

    Ms Rochambeau's avatar
    Ms Rochambeau
    United States United States

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    To me, after to Djedi, this is the strangest Guerlain scent I've smelled. I agree with JaimeB in that there is a pervasive note of cinnamon that moves through the scent from beginning to end. In the beginning I get plum/cinnamon, in the heart I get rose with a more quiet cinnamon and in the dry down the faint leather finally comes riding in on the meaty oakmoss. I don't get any of the amber that was mentioned. I also agree with JessicaGrace that it fades rather quickly. I started out with a vintage 5 ml min of the EDT which left me frustrated that there was very little sillage and it disappeared too quickly to truly get a handle on it. I held my judgement until I could nab a small amout of the pure parfum, which anybody who has been looking for it knows is basically next to impossible. However I managed to find a few drops and It is so much richer and deeper. But eevn in parfum form it doesn't project that well and lays close to the skin. It's such an intriguing scent that it's worth it. BUT apparently "intriguing" is enough to get a scent discontinued in today's perfume world. I don't even like rose or plum notes, but I love this!

    17 June, 2010

    Sugandaraja's avatar
    Sugandaraja
    Canada Canada

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    Please delete this review - I had my samples mixed up! Sorry Parure.

    19 May, 2010 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2010)

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