Perfume Directory

Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia (2000)
by Guerlain


Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia information

Year of Launch2000
Average Rating
(based on 54 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerJean Paul Guerlain
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton

About Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia

Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia is a feminine perfume by Guerlain. The scent was launched in 2000 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Jean Paul Guerlain

Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia

Neroli, orange flower and jasmin. That sounds like a lovely combination of flowers, and it could be... But this is no 'hello birds, hello sky, what a beautiful day' kind of scent. The delicate neroli and petitgrain head has barely time to settle in when it's brutally assaulted by an indolic orange flower and, I would guess, jasmin sambac with their dominating crunchy dry undercurrents.

The heart of white flowers turns what could be a gentle orange cologne into a perfumey onslaught of indole, its rotting blast of tooth decay sharpened by tiny pricks of incense; these are flowers with attitude, and they bite!

Flora Nerolia is crude, yes; direct in its simplicity, undoubtedly; and it's daring, it couldn't give a damn about the rules. It overturns the structure of the floral by boosting up what is normally a polite modifier (which adds a little smoothness, or in larger quantities backbone to a pretty floral composition) until in the end the indole takes over and dominatinates like a thug.

Flora Nerolia brutally mashes up the gender codes and demands that we ignore them. You can't wear something as challenging as this and remain a perfume innocent for long, you're obliged to abandon easy gender conventions and cross into unknown territory. See it as a virago cologne, or as an old fashioned dandified floral from the pre-gendered age (if you prefer), but you won't find it easy to wear this as an ordinary cologne; that it is not.

It is extraordinary though, to find something as radical as this coming from a perfumer like Jean-Paul Guerlain - who struck me as a conservative, even establishment figure. It seems his inherent sense of rigour went completely over the top this time, leading him to produce a work that's closer in spirit to the iconoclastic oeuvre of Germain Cellier than his grandfather Jacques' romanticism.

Hardly surprising to see that something this difficult should have been culled since Jean-Paul left the helm, and that's a shame. It would make a natural jumping off point from the spiky woods if it were still around, and if a young buck were to dare...

07th September, 2017 (last edited: 20th September, 2017)

I never knew of the existence of the Aqua Allegoria line until long after Flora Nerolia had been discontinued. My curiosity overcame my reluctance to buy blind, and I snagged a tester on eBay. Since then it has been a yearly favorite for cool weather. I find it too heavy for summer use but in winter it is heavenly. The jasmine and orange blossom play off each other beautifully. I don't normally like soapy or indolic fragrances and this is both, yet I love it. The shower cream is also delightful to use.
12th December, 2011
This reminds me a lot of the original version of Narcisse Noir by Caron - smoky orange blossom and an animalic tang. Fascinating.
12th December, 2011
Finally got my hands on this one!!! A whole 125ml bottle of it! For years I had longed to get it as I remembered the smell from a small sampling I had got ages ago.
Now some people might say that there is an element of cat pee in it but that's part of the deal. Beside our house in the South of France, a neighbour had a hedge with white waxy flowers which turned into sticky seeds (choisya I believe) and that's exactly the smell you get. To me it's one of the stronger AAs, to be handled with care but it's definitely worth it. I believe Orange blossom is back in fashion but this one is a turbo blast of Eau de fleur d'oranger with almost a "frangipane" finish (the almond paste you get in Galette des Rois cake). Sweet indeed but in a sharp way.
07th June, 2011
A stunningly beautiful fragrance! I will never understand why Guerlain discontinues most of the Allegorias so quickly. I have been using my bottle sparingly for years because I can't stand the thought of not owning a bottle!
20th February, 2011
This Neroli is close to the real thing! I love wearing in during summer, because the fragrance lifts me up & makes me alert during heat-waves.
24th October, 2010

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