The new version of Helmut Lang's EDP is quite close to the new EDC, just with a slightly more prominent presence of tonka, vanilla and heliotrope - less metallic, transparent and "abstract" than the EDC and a bit more warm, substantial, more balmy and sweeter, and in a way more "conventionally" cozy and clean. Yet, it still carries as well that particular sort of architectural, dusty feel of "gray", so the avantgarde factor which makes Lang's range so unique is here as well. If you had to choose between the new EDP and EDC, my advice would to be to go for this; it's not exactly the same, but is fairly similar, just richer and a bit more persistent. Sadly I can not give my opinion about the faithfulness as regards to the original version, as I've never tried it. As-is, I consider it a really pleasant, clean, well-built scent, a bit costly but unique enough to be worth at least a try (by the way, I agree with the similarity with Labdanum 18).
Synthetic yet cozy, the 2014 re-issue of EdP is soft, warm, and frankly, quite brilliant. It feels deceptively simple, but it’s clear that there’s a great deal of nuance. It strikes the perfect balance between powdery florals, semi-sweet musks, and balmy vanilla with just a touch of cinnamon. It’s like a creamier, more edible Labdanum 18 or a refined and less dramatic Musc Ravageur, yet it feels more accomplished than both through its seeming unfussiness. Furthermore, there’s an insinuation of a laundry motif created through the tiniest inclusion of soapy lavender that makes the scent feel abnormally clean—like a plush toy taken straight from the drier.
It sits close to the skin, but not so close as to be considered a skin scent—and I could see how it could potentially be over-sprayed. However, there’s nothing belligerent about it—no harshness to the synthetics whatsoever, and it somehow keeps from being cloying even when it feels like it should be. It’s pillowy and soft but it doesn’t feel juvenile.
Sadly, I never had the chance to smell the original, and I’m sure that some changes were made at some point (there's an ebanol-style sandalwood lurking in the base), but this is pure, powdery comfort. It’s probably too pricey as it stands, but it does what it does so well that I imagine it won’t be hard to rationalize the price. Total comfort in a bottle.
Got this as a tester bottle from Fragrance Outlet. Pretty good, allot of vanilla i think. Very clean smelling to me. Doesn't hurt my nose like allot of them do.
Helmut Lang EDP (Original)
Musc Ravageur's sister. No doubts. In my vision Helmut Lang EDP was Roucel's prototype for his much more hyped Musc Ravageur. Replace the cinnamon/spices combo of the Malle with slight yet spohisticated floral patterns, tame it down a little bit et voilà, here's Helmut Lang EDP.
Same dirty/clean vibe, same overall allure. Simply brilliant and undeservedly overlooked. Terrific!
Helmut Lang EDP (2014 Version)
The great news about Helmut Lang re-launching their whole range of fragrances, surprised quite a lot of us in the fragrance-sphere. Everybody was happy and concerned at the same time to discover if they messed up with these mythical fragrances and with much of my surprise, I've to say they didn't at all.
Current EDP is incredibly close to the original but, if I can dare, it feels almost better. It's slightly stronger and more balanced on the sweetness and, after all these years, still feels unique enough to gain all of my support and endorsement. I've to say that I found the original musk a bit more nuanced as it felt clean but maintained a certain dirtiness typical to this ingredient whereas the current iteration feels overall woodier and cleaner. Still top-notch stuff in my book.
05th May, 2012 (last edited: 07th November, 2014)
This is a brilliant fragrance and shamefully discontinued. It's another fine demonstration of M. Roucel's talent, and so much better than much hyped HL Cuiron...
Somewhat similar to Musc Ravageur, not that suprisingly. But I like this a tad better because it's not as loud. You know, musk scents are at their best when they wear close to skin without too overwhelming sillage.
HL Eau de Parfum is mainly a mixture of candyfloss vanilla and french herbs with animalic trace of jasmine-civet-patchouli accord. The overall impression is of high quality natural musk, or the cotton candy served in a heavenly funfair.
Long lasting pleasure.
This is marketed to women, but don't be fooled: It's based on HL Cologne (for men) but only with more intense concentration. Totally unisex and wonderful perfume in general.