Perfume Directory

Calèche Eau de Toilette (1961)
by Hermès

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Calèche Eau de Toilette information

Year of Launch1961
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 285 votes)

People and companies

HouseHermès
PerfumerGuy Robert

About Calèche Eau de Toilette

Reorchestrated in 1992.

Composed by Guy Robert in 1961, Calèche is the first women’s fragrance from Hermès. It is a very feminine woody, chypre floral, whose name refers to the horse-drawn carriages that are emblematic to the house.

Reviews of Calèche Eau de Toilette

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
In the original formulation the opening is a citrus l-based mix in lemon, orange, mandarin and a good dose of neroli on top of it. In spite of an Initial assumption to the opposite, this is not a refreshing citrus mix, but a bit darker and settles.

Most prominently, however, is an aldehyde that is very sharp and crisp initially, and makes its mark not only during the top appearance of the top notes, but throughout Calèche’s whole longitudinal development.

The heart notes are a floral potpourri: I get a lot of muguet, a bright and elegant rose, and an ylang-ylang that manages an intense creaminess that is nonetheless neither thick nor cloying. Iris and jasmine underscore the importance of traditional floral underpinnings in the extensive drydown, and whiffs of oleander round it off. Clearly the florals are at the core of the matter in the longitudinal progress of this olfactory journey.

An incense note, enforced by coumarin and oakmoss - the latter neither harsh nor loud but fitting in well - mark a turn to darker regions, enhanced by a bit of amber and musks in the background, whilst a tonka impression adds more sweetness to what the floral basked already provides - but still steering clear from being too heavy. Towards the end woody notes appear - cedarwood mainly on me. Apart from a dimly glowing vetiver in the back room the base is not such a bright affair. For the second half there is an civilisedly sumptuous powderiness accompanying the mix.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst this deliciously rich and complex scent for evening outings in spring and autumn is of classic and confident elegance and grandeur. In all its richness it never ceases to be refined. The only drawback is that the sheer load of ingredients - all of excellent quality though - makes and appreciation of all the details nigh impossible. Overall 3.75/5


02nd December, 2019
Finally I found an open bottle at the duty free. Calèche is a nice powdery vintage floral with a soapy, itchy feel. I like the good performances it has, without being too empowering.
11th January, 2019
Calèche hails from a time when a word like grandeur could be used to describe a perfume and it wouldn't be written off as empty rhetoric.

Guy Robert's original formulation was a grand opulent chypre, the like of which has long since disappeared from mainstream perfumery.
Two reasons for that are : 1) this sort of quality is not cheap to make, and 2) a perfume of this stature needs to be worn by someone whose age is greater than their hip size.

Smart, beautiful and classy, Calèche had everything going for it - except that most precious quality these days - youth.

****
23rd December, 2018 (last edited: 30th May, 2019)
The opening of this reminds me of Chanel No. 22. A slightly feminine-leaning fragrance, but something I feel like I could pull off, a woody, aldehydic floral. It develops in more of a foodie/gourmand direction than No. 22, which stays woodier. This one gets a bit of a cinnamon roll vibe, which isn't great, and makes it a less attractive alternative to No. 22.
18th July, 2018
An incredibly sharp aldehyde. This smells great and I can tell it is vintage, from the 60s. There is a floral note of ylang ylang, jasmine, and iris. It's mostly an aldehyde, but the floral is a nice balance.
15th September, 2017
Took a whiff of this Feminine and thought "This is a contemporary Equipage with Adelehydes and softer Leather."
I see from others reviews they have witnessed the same.
Lots of similarities. Beautiful and classic Hermes finesse. Must try the Vintage as apparently there was a reform in the 90's.

August 2018

Vintage has a Rosey Sandalwood drydown like it's younger cousin 70's Rive Gauche. Yes, 1970's Rive Gauche had a plonk of Sandalwood. I know because I wore it at that time.
15th May, 2016 (last edited: 08th August, 2018)

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