Calèche (1961)
by Hermès

“Classic chypre” –those two words make it a certainty for me – I guess I’m easy. Calèche (Soie de Parfum) could easily be the paradigm for the sensual, sophisticated ‘60s chypre: It’s classic from the aldehydes in its citrus opening; to the indole laden jasmine that unites with the soft, elegant rose in the heart; to the rich oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar wood drydown with its soft, sensual powder overlay. Calèche doesn’t stop at being a paradigm for the ’60 chypre, it adds value to that already stellar category: Its cited relationship to #5 for example – a beautifully composed aldehyldic floral. And then there’s Hermès traditional quality and value that radiates from this creation – this is classic Hermès all the way. Calèche is a beautiful feminine chypre that boasts balance, refinement, classic development, good sillage, and phenomenal longevity. It is of its era, but that is no negative…

I liked the warm woody notes at the beginning but then over several hours the scent started to remind me of old linens stored away in a forgotten drawer for several years. Stays on for a very long time.

Caleche was released by Hermès in 1961 and smells like a perfume of its time. It is a classic elegant chypre fragrance that starts off with a more astringency than say 31 rue Cambon or Y by YSL. However, after 15 minutes so, the floral and dry citrus notes smoothly emerge and then it becomes clear why Caleche is considered a masterpiece by Guy Robert. As for comparisons, I think Caleche is smoother and more wearable than Jolie Madame, Miss Dior or Bandit but for a newcomer to chypre-land, Diorella, Y and 31 rue Cambon are probably easier to enjoy. In any event, I find Caleche to be a very confident, sophisticated perfume that is the epitome of French chic. Excellent sillage, by the way.

Here are Caleche’s notes, as gleaned from various perfume websites: bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, aldehydes, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, gardenia, iris, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar and vetiver.

Tested on paper from a sample my wife got as a gift several years ago when she bought a fragrance. The first spray remembered me an old perfume, in the line of Avon, my grandmother used when I was a child.

At top notes, some citric and fruity notes can be smelled (most lemon, also bergamot) plus some aroma that gave me the idea of "antique" or "old" (perhaps aldehydes). The middle note is floral, with roses and jasmine. Base note tends to woody notes (oakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood, plus vetiver), keeping the fresh citric floral first notes.

A classic fragrance, for daytime or office, all seasons. It don't seem to have a range of ages for use (it's like a cologne), although I tend to associate it with older women.

This scent is a fraternal twin to Chanel's #5. I know, it seems impossible, but listen: both scents share the following notes~ ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose/mayrose, sandalwood & vetiver. The Caleche incorporates a few others as well; such as iris and oakmoss, which add the dry crispness the aldehydes contribute in #5. After drydown, there is also a
striking resemblence to YSL'S Rive Gauche. A rich and womanly chypre. At any rate, after 45 years in production it's obviously a winning fragrance. Timeless!

My standby for many years, and my joy. The EDP lasts well, and it goes anywhere, any time.
I recall it took me to my first interview, and has a special place in my life that will never be ousted. Sillage softer than I'd like.

I love perfumes with a touch of hyacinth, and am surprised that this has none - but I can now see that it has been missed out!