Aperçu (2000)
by Houbigant

Geranium and rosewood in this do an amazing job of making you believe you are smelling roses. This is reinforced by the cinnamon notes in both cinnamon bark oil and cassia bark. The actual florals, in the top note here, are white florals used with a delicate hand, and closely associated with citrus notes, which also exist in attar of roses. The capstone of the rose deception is in the addition of sandalwood, the final brush stroke in the simulation. The bergamot-oakmoss-patchouli triangle make of this s perfect classical chypre, worthy of Houbigant. As suitable for men as for women, if worn lightly. Sadly now withdrawn from the market.

If this is a reforumulation of the original, it was done in classic style, somewhat reminiscent of the premier Chypre by Coty. (I have the parfum.) Apercu is a gorgeous chypre, opening with a beautifully composed floral/green accord (if there is tuberose here I can't detect it) underpinned by soft woods and spice. Not a trace of powder, thankfully. It strikes me somehow as a scent that both the proper Katharine Hepburn and the outre Marlene Dietrich could have worn in the '30s, yet is also strikingly modern. Reminds me a bit of Tarantella but without the fizzy aldehydes. Sophisticated and timeless.

Being a huge fan of Quelques Fleurs (I personally believe it is one of the most drop dead beautiful perfume creations of all time) I had to try Apercu. And if they haven't done it again, Apercu is one of the most gorgeous chypres I have ever experienced. If the word sophistication had a smell this would be it. It does have a lot in common with Aromatics Elixir but there is a roundness and richness here... Where Elixir is sharp and edgey, this is poised and upright, graceful . If you love the Guerlain chypres, please please please allow yourself the chance to experience this world class fragrance.

Apercu is assuredly an underknown and therefore underappreciated classic from Houbigant. Apercu was first released about 80 years ago, and whether or not it was reformulated when it was reintroduced in 2000 is anyone's guess. My guess is that yes, it was reformulated to some extent. This is a chypre floral. Very easy to wear for a chypre. If you find Mitsouko a bit strange for your tastes (for the record, I don't, but many do) but are interested in chypres, this is one to try. It's similar to Jean Patou's 1000 but without that questionable (nasty?) undertone, and it's not as powerful as Clinique's Aromatics Elixir, another chypre floral. Apercu begins with shades of florals (rose, jasmine and a muted, well-behaved tuberose) and spices (oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, clove, cassis) and then mellows to a classic chypre heart. The drydown's end is once again that florally spice. Just beautiful. You can often find the pure parfum on eBay for a reasonable price. I was fortunate enough to snag an 8ml bottle for under $12.00, shipping included. Can't beat that. The EdP is also beautiful, which is good to know in case you can't get your hands on the parfum. Bravo, Houbigant, for another classic. I hope this one is around for a long time. It deserves to be.