Perfume Directory

Le Feu d'Issey (1998)
by Issey Miyake


Le Feu d'Issey information

Year of Launch1998
Average Rating
(based on 123 votes)

People and companies

HouseIssey Miyake
PerfumerJacques Cavallier
PackagingGwenael Nicolas
Parent CompanyShiseido > Beaute Prestige International

About Le Feu d'Issey

Le Feu d'Issey is a feminine perfume by Issey Miyake. The scent was launched in 1998 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Jacques Cavallier. The bottle was designed by Gwenael Nicolas

Le Feu d'Issey fragrance notes

Reviews of Le Feu d'Issey

totally original scent. effervescent, fresh and zesty but not the boring generic citrusy way. also, very different than the eau d issey which has way less charisma. r'there was nothing like thata available where i live, and i find it sad it is gone.
18th December, 2016
When I think of Issey Miyake, I think of the grim calone-driven horrors you find in department stores. So when a friend sent me a sample of this, I was a bit taken aback as to why he thought I’d be interested in smelling it. This couldn’t be further removed from the kind of scents Miyake puts out today. Although I don’t personally like the smell, per se, it’s a brilliant composition with what I swear is the most generous dose of sandalwood I’ve smelled from a mainstream release.

It opens with a orange-peel rose infused with a bizarre herbal accord. Underneath is a rich, milky sandalwood and cedar. The combination of all those main notes is both jarring and yet somehow perfect. It strikes a meticulous balance—and one that stays suspended for its entire lifespan. But as the fruity / rose opening eventually fades, what remains is a milky wood with just enough of a trace of the opening to serve as a reminder. It lasts a really long time as well.

Even though it’s not quite right for me personally (there’s something a little vomity about fruit and milk up top that reminds me of Vraie Blonde), this is a wildly original scent that’s overflowing with comfort once it gets to the base. I’m shocked by how much sandalwood is in this scent — it’s positively booming. Le Feu d’Issey is so unique and perfectly rendered that I can’t help but wonder what went wrong with the brand that they ditched this and kept the ghastly windex that currently haunts the scent wall of low-end department stores. If fruity, rosy, creamy scents are your thing, this is one of the best I've smelled in that style.
08th June, 2015
I despair for the human nose and for the reviewers on this page.

Le Feu is a vile, vulgar, putrid scent - one of the worst I've ever encountered. Redolent of that horrid Guaic Wood and Anise.

It is a sharp, green, herbaceous mess - one of the few I've run to the bathroom to scrub off.

Top notes: Bergamot, Coconut, Rosewood, Anise
Middle notes: Jasmine, Rose, Milk , Caramel
Base notes: Cedar, Sandwalwood, Guiac Wood, Vanilla, Musk

LT must be nuts giving this horrid thing 5 stars and calling if a milky rose. There's no milk, no rose, the ingredients list must be a joke, since most of these would give a softening effect, but don't.

I am so glad this had been discontinued. It should never have been born in the first place.
11th July, 2014 (last edited: 26th May, 2015)
Genre: Bender

Alternate Notes:

Bergamot, coconut, rosewood, anise, jasmine, rose, milk, caramel, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, musk. (


Bergamot, coriander, pepper, rose, tuberose, lily of the valley, carnation, cedar, guaiac wood, amber. (Pere de Pierre)

Some extinct perfume legends turn out to be disappointing on acquaintance, but the much touted, much lamented Le Feu d’Issey delivers the goods. The by-now-famous yeasty “warm bread” note is evident right from the start. At first the most clearly recognizable accompanying notes are a strong toasted coriander seed and a pungent, dry herbal bouquet. All are supported by a smoky wood accord that approaches Bertrand Duchaufour’s Timbuktu and Dzongkha in mood, and which may likewise contain a heavy dose of cypriol. In fact, in retrospect I find it hard to imagine that Duchaufour did not have Le Feu d’Issey somewhere on his mind when he composed Timbuktu and Dzongkha. The Miyake makes no obvious use of incense, but as fish fins to amphibian legs, its austere, dry, smoky, wood skeleton feels like the evolutionary platform upon which the later scents were built.

Moreover, just as Timbuktu and Dzongkha turn surprisingly toward florals in the course of their development, so too does Le Feu d’Issey. Where Timbuktu would employ karo karounde blossom and Dzongkha peony and iris root, Le Feu d’Issey (perhaps even more daringly,) uses tuberose. In such spare, dry surrounds, tuberose takes on a startlingly novel character, shedding all traces of heady tropical languor in exchange for a medicinal air that no other perfume I know has yet revealed. As the tuberose comes into focus the smoky woody backdrop sharpens and intensifies, as if to compensate for any indulgent floral sweetness with pepper and cedar. Indeed, it’s only in the tuberose’s wake, and well into the drydown, that any trace of conventional oriental vanilla or balsamic sweetness emerges. What remains of Le Feu d’Issey after several hours is a warm, soft skin scent of vanilla-seasoned sandalwood, light amber, and musk.

While it’s convention to mourn Le Feu d’Issey as a brilliant one-off gesture, a masterpiece that left no progeny, and an evolutionary dead end, I believe it does in fact have a significant legacy. Besides Duchaufour’s dry incense compositions – Bois d’Ombrie and Sienne l’Hiver alongside Timbuktu and Dzongkha – there are the equally dry and smoky vetivers, including Encre Noire, and Sycomore. In my estimation all of these may owe Le Feu d’Issey for their mood, if not their actual contents.
19th June, 2014
Opens with a gorgeously sharp, peppery rose similar to Rossy de Palma by L'Etat de Libre d"Orange or Noorolain Taif by Thameen which are the only two fragrances I have smelled recently that come close. After the rose came the pepper, mango fruity smell. Men stopped me in the street to ask what it was. At the time a unique scent. The light version is horrible, like sweet plastic and absolutely nothing like the original, very milky and sickly.
23rd March, 2014
My favourite sent of all time. It has seen me meet my husband, be proposed to, get married and have my children! To me, the scent is a warm, cashmere blanket wrapped around you. There are the smells of a beautiful Parisian boudoir, or exclusive boutique as it is a mix of lots of beautiful notes. It is as if Jacque was wandering around a fabulous Christmas market and was writing down the various scents he found- pepper, fresh dough, spices, coriander from the giant paella, and when back to his lab didn't wont to leave anything out! In many ways, it should not have worked but ohh it really so does. It develops wonderfully on the skin and has none of the acidic, cheap filler smells now associated with many of the new, popular scents. He must have been devasted when this was dropped, but perhaps not surprised, as it is a grower and perhaps that first sniff is too much, I think for me it was but I left it for 1/2 and hour as I wandered around a departures lounge, then I fell in love with it! Discontinued, blooming extortionate to buy (if you can find it) but oh, oh, so worth it. If you have the chance have a scoosh and savour it! X
17th November, 2013

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