DRY, like Campari. A bracing, soapy, thin and fairly linear scent. The coriander is more dried coriander seeds than the fresh green leaves, although overall this is the definition of a dry, green scent (but note I have never smelt Vent Vert...). There are better chypres than this out there, but I am glad I have this in my collection. It's a fine scent for daytime, whether for work or weekends when you want to feel brisk and no nonsense.
06th April, 2013 (last edited: 20th November, 2013)
CORIANDRE – Couturier – 1973 [floral/herbal chypre]
Another totally unique scent, blending herbals, florals and chypre notes into a light, warm, sophisticated and intoxicating blend. The unique blend of coriander and angelica, mixed with Bulgarian rose, wafting over a gentle chypre base, has to be experienced to be believed. A dry, spicy delight. One of my very favorites and a birthday gift this year for every woman – and man – on my list.
Top Notes: Coriander, Orange Blossom, Angelica
Middle Notes: Rose, Geranium, Lily, Jasmine, Orris
Base notes: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Civet
Top notes: Aldehydes, coriander, orange blossom, angelica
Middle notes: Violet root, lily, jasmine, rose, geranium
Base notes: Sandalwood, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss, vetiver
Coriandre must be one of the most daring fragrances of the 70's. Nothing comes even close to it. It has a "dark green" quality that remotely reminds me of Jean-Louis Scherrer. However, Coriandre is a little lighter and somewhat brighter. Also, the aldehydes are much more noticeable. Coriandre shares quite a few notes with Empreinte by Courrège as well (coriander, aldehydes, rose, jasmine, patchouli, oakmoss and sandalwood). I vividly remember a shocking advert for Coriandre showing a very dignified lady sitting on a chair with the right sleeve of her blouse half ripped off. This is the image I associate with this EDT. Dressy and decadent. Coriandre is a true work of art.
Unfortunately this fragrance comes across smelling like heavily perfumed soap on me when I first apply it. At least, it makes me think of soap more than anything else. On the one hand I don't fully dislike this fragrance, and there is definitely something about it that almost makes me want to give it a thumbs up and a slightly higher rating. On the other hand though I'm left with a feeling that this is a bit of an overly "stinky" perfume. It might be nice on some people, but I probably wouldn't make this one my signature scent.
Coriandre was my beloved signature fragrance throughout the 1980s, ever since I first smelled it (and immediately bought it) at an airport perfume store in Nairobi. The bottle was a 4 oz. atomizer, $27, and I felt very decadent for spending so much on perfume! (Needless to say, I've come a long way since then!) I was saddened when I smelled the dismal reformulation last year; this excellent fragrance has been ruined. However, as of this writing, the earlier version can still be found in cylindrical 1.1 oz. atomizers, both in small independent perfume shops and on the Web.