Joy (1930)
by Jean Patou

The Platonic essence of "old-fashioned women's perfume." Your choice whether "old-fashioned" means classic or dated. One things is for sure: they don't make 'em like this anymore. Becausee most people don't want 'em like this anymore. Which is, perhaps, why I got 30ml EdP of "the world's most expensive perfume" for 5 Euros. I can't help but smell a 40+ conservative high-end designer clad society-lady within these vapors. It would truly seem out of place on a young 21st century woman, in the way that Vintage Tabarome would seem like an olfactory oversized suit on a 20-year old bachelor. These may only be conventions, and the perfumista will ignore them - but conventions are pretty powerful, after all.
It is a brilliant perfume and I cannot add much to the descriptions. A peachy aldehydic top, which I find better-tempered than Chanel's. A perfect heart of blended florals - indolic jasmine, noticeable muguet and rose (as well as Ylang, orris and orchid) and slowly emerging spicy sandalwood and musk. A pronounced civet note hovers above it all from the opening, to slightly recede into the floral mix, adding some raunchiness to the bouquet of innocence. Add the wonderful art deco flacon (though the current incarnation has plasticized the stopper) and you have one of the all-time greats of 20th century perfume culture.

Absolutely drop dead gorgeous, huge and simply heartbreaking floral bouquet. There is nothing like it. I do wear feminines, but there is no way I could pull this one off. I wouldn't even try. Shame though...

There's a patient wisdom to "Joy", as if it's cozy, aldehylic rosiness is like a ray of sunshine through the gathering dust of a fallen empire. Its name would imply ecstatic bouyancy, but in fact, this scent feels more quietly optimistic and reflective than jump-around happy. It's clearer than the decadent orientals dripping off flappers of the 1920's and seems appropriate for evening wear and both a work and home environment---a clever understanding by the house of Patou, considering the financial conditions surrounding its time of release. "Joy" reads like a fresher, airier version of "Chanel No. 5"; where the latter evolves into a creamy-sweet girliness, "Joy" mimics a sun rising and warming dawn---sparkling, free, renewing. Upon first application, the aldehydes tune like an orchestra, then slowly---perhaps, even wih a dash of melancholy--welcome rising notes of slighty castille-soapy-creamy warmth, a hint of summer bouquet, then rose emerges. The rose note is sweet, velvety, without ever evolving into a blood-metallic aftertaste found elsewhere in similar notes. Slightly powdery, but with a shimmering crispness; it's cuddly, womanly but not flamboyantly so--referencing early morning relaxing, that following a shower. Finally, "Joy" dries down into a sheer, animalic softness that's neither too much nor too little carnality. Lovely, lovely and not in the least bit dated, "Joy" is the perfect andecdote to the blues; it tries to "cheer up" while respecting the significance of pain, tragedy and dissapointment. A thoughtfully arranged, sparkling gem.

I won 3 baby packages of Joy on ebay. Two were the eau de toilette, & the other one was full of a darker juice & labeled eau de JOY.
I put the eau de toilette on my right hand & the eau de JOY on my left.
The right hand is brighter, sharper, & lacks the depth that the left hand has. It's as if I had two different brands on as apposed to two different versions of the same perfume.
The dusty, cat booty is what the right hand is all about. & the left is an almost fruity, dark jasmin, & rich civet where the on the left the civet was demanding & loud, very much an old fur jacket.

Very interesting & lovely. Sexual, dirty, yet refinded. Like a wild romp in the coat room at a friends black tie event.

I had much higher expectations from "the most expensive fragrance in the world". To me it doesn't seem to be dated at all, it's really a timeless perfume. It's fruity, flowery and cheerful. The woman who wears it is optimistic, happy and enthusiastic. It's not bad, but I expected it to be a much more sophisticated and elegant fragrance. Maybe if I hadn't known it was classified as one of the greatest fragrances of all time, I would have rated it as positive. Maybe my expectations were too high...

On me, Joy smells like a dewy, fresh, early spring day, where I was raised, in the Midwest. For about fifteen minutes, until it vanishes, anyway. I find it extremely romantic, and lush, in an old-fashioned, high-fashion way.

Because it reminds me of spring in my childhood state, it always inspired me with a pleasant and joyous feeling of nostalgia. I finally found out that it contains a strong note of lily-of-the-valley. That would explain it.:-)

That being said, I love the way it smells-- beautiful and old-style glamorous. But, I cannot wear it. I wear Orientals well. Soli or floral bouquets just disappear. (sigh)

Thumps up, for women who can wear it.