My over all impression is one of superior blending. No one note stands out. They are all superbly balanced. Old-fashioned, to be sure, but in a very good way. Certainly feminine, but not in such a way for a unisex appeal to be discouraged.
The rose, jasmine, muguet, carnation and the honeysuckle swirl together in a non-competitive melange.There are grounding oak moss, civet and lavender here, but they are extremely subtle. I am not reminded of a cocktail in scent, but in the mixing. It certainly impresses with its quiet beauty. Something I'd imagine Audrey Hepburn to be comfortable with.
The Beauty Encounter link to the side on this page is non-operative at this point in time, indicating it is truly discontinued. Very worth searching for. One asks oneself what are these modern perfumers thinking, and their audiences as well, when something this fine can be discontinued, and thousands of nonentities flourish.
09th December, 2016 (last edited: 17th January, 2017)
I only tried the Ma Collection version of Cocktail, but originally there were two or three different versions: Cocktail Dry, Cocktail Sweet, and I'm sure I've read of a middle sweetness version too. I'm really not sure which version the Ma Collection version was - it wasn't overly sweet, but definitely wasn't dry either.
As with most of the original Patou perfumes, I find they are so complex it is very difficult to identify individual notes. The best way I can describe Cocktail, is that I found it very similar to Caron's En Avion, but without the sandalwood, and with an added sloe gin note.
Cocktail was quite odd in that when I wore it sometimes I really didn't like it very much at all, but on other occasions was very fond of it; however, it was never one of my favourite perfumes.
It's a hot summer night in 1930. You are at an outdoor event, being hosted in a large veranda, on a grassy lawn. You look amazing in a bias cut silk dress, and shimmering bracelet. The waiter is pouring champagne cocktails. Everyone is relaxed and laughing. The mood is light and airy. Around you , the honeysuckle "clutters up the vine". You dance with whoever asks you. A perfectly elegant night, with a hint of something casual.
This is unique..perfect for a dinner party; and whatever comes after!!! Vintage Vogue has it exactly right.
When I first reviewed Cocktail I felt I had discovered an absolute winner among the Ma Collection fragrances of Jean Patou! I hugely enjoy this light-hearted citrus-fruity (honeysuckle I learn from the reviewer below) opening and its chypré notes joining in the heart. It's fizzy like a self-made Gin Fizz at a summer party, refreshing and enjoyable! Try Roja Dove's Diaghilev, which has a related vibe and feel, although slightly 'heavier' towards the drydown. However, the drydown here with the sweet and rich florals mixed with the civet creates an accord not as offensive as what Mona di Orio comes up with (Nuit Noire) but, still, I can't enjoy this. This review is for the EdT!
31st July, 2011 (last edited: 29th November, 2011)
I have a vintage sample, so some notes may have deteriorated over time. This is an odd floral chypre, of the old school. It may have a fruity tone in it, but not the modern fruit shampoo...more a riotous bold fruit note snaking around in a garden of sharp astringent flowers. No one has mentioned it, but I also detect rose. A sharp green glassy rose. I don't want to be too judgmental of this sample, but it's hard to imagine who this scent would fit. It's a mite sharp and angular for either day or night. It needs to relax and have a cocktail!