Normandie (1935)
by Jean Patou

Jean Patou's Normandie (1935) strikes me as a beautiful medium somewhere between Guerlain's Vol de Nuit (1933) and Arpege de Lanvin (1927). One of my friends swears by Normandie as an autumn and winter fragrance. Frankly, I like it in the warmer months as well. If you have any desire to own this lovely, get it now while there are still a few bottles available online. Part of the esteemed Patou Ma Collection reprisals, Normandie is classified as an oriental-ambery type. The carnation, jasmine and rose are all in the forefront, while the back notes consist of amber, vanilla and woods. This is a lady-like and restrained fragrance, not one which races ahead of you into the room. No, this one floats in with you, enveloping you in a sillage of sophistication and restraint. Normandie is powdery in the final act, but not in the way that, say, Rive Gauche is powdery. It's powdery more in the line of Vol de Nuit or even Caron's En Avion. Normandie is as fashionable today as it was decades ago when it was released to celebrate the maiden voyage of the transatlantic liner of the same name. If anyone from Patou is reading this, please, please return Normandie to your regular line-up. It deserves no less than to be placed in the same category as Joy and 1000.

A wonderful, soft, ambery oriental which is usually paired in my own mind with Balenciaga's Prelude. Both of these have wonderful amber accords, although Normandie is a bit less sweet than Prelude, and may have a bit more of an incense note. This is wonderful in cool weather: distinguished and soothing.