Perfume Directory

Cāline (1964)
by Jean Patou


Cāline information

Year of Launch1964
Average Rating
(based on 32 votes)

People and companies

HouseJean Patou
PerfumerHenri Giboulet
Parent CompanyShaneel Enterprises Ltd > Designer Parfums
Parent Company at launchJean Patou

About Cāline

Cāline is a feminine perfume by Jean Patou. The scent was launched in 1964 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Henri Giboulet

Cāline fragrance notes

Reviews of Cāline

Caline's first impression is that of a My Sin "Light."

The rich, heavy, honeyed floral chypre notes are all there, but it in a new frothy mix that floats, rather than envelops.

I don't perceive any of the green notes others write about, nor can I distinguish most of the particular notes in the tree, except for the santal, labdanum, rose and musk, which are discernible.

My problem with my sample is that it disappears within five minutes. No amount of re-application can nail it down for longer than that time frame. I am experiencing the edt.

I must give it a thumbs up for that beautiful first five minutes. I'd be curious to see if a parfum version lasts longer.
13th August, 2017
There is a thread that mentions that Edie Sedgewick might have worn this one...not sure if that is or isn't true but it may as well be. Cāline is a delicate 60's chypre, bright and effervescent but also with restaint and depth. No icky or creepy notes, just green moss, some citrus, over a powdery and mild ambery base. If you happen to be in the market for a 1964 *young lady's* chypre, and the thought of vintage Jean Nate after bath splash and powder makes you feel safe and cozy...this one won't disappoint.
02nd November, 2015
This is a light chypre-classy and distinctive;
BRIGHT is a good description. One of my favorites, and hard to find. Elegant
08th October, 2012 (last edited: 03rd September, 2014)
A sharp & dominant aldehydic, bitter citrus accord, edging into subtle rose/jasmine florals. So fascinating that this scent was originally intended for teenagers and young women, because today it just smells so incredibly old fashioned - a fragrance that is clearly of the pre-80s world - made before someone decided that all fragrances needed to be syrupy sweet and fruity-floral.
07th April, 2012 (last edited: 26th May, 2017)
a teen in the 60's is a senior citizen now, which is what caline reminds me of.
19th August, 2010 (last edited: 03rd February, 2011)
bbBD Show all reviews
United States
When Caline was introduced in 1964 it was marketed as a 'perfume for young women'. One can imagine that the heaviness and sophistication of Patou's legends like Joy and 1000 were a bit too much for teenage girls, even back in the 60s. Knowing the thinking behind the development and marketing of Caline provides an unintended commentary on the state of perfumery in 2009. Specifically, by today's standards Caline is a wonderfully fresh and enjoyable green fragrance, far more sophisticated, subtle and layered then the fragrance intended for adults today. The fragrances intended for 'young women' today are typically the dreaded bug-juice-sweet fruity florals promoted by the 'celebutard' of the month.

Caline feels a lot like a chypre and I wouldn't be surprised if the formal bergamot/oakmoss structure is lurking underneath. Unlike a typical chypre Caline adds a huge blast of aldehydes - more than in any other chypre fragrance I've experienced. The aldehydes are accompanied by light citrus and crisp green notes. As the initial burst of aldehydes settles down, leaving a bouquet of green notes, jasmine and other subtle white florals. Caline straddles the line perfectly between green-heavy scents that are a bit too bitter and chypres that feature lots of mossy/woody notes. There is definitely a green bitterness to Caline, but it is balanced well by the aldehydes and a subtle touch of rose (and iris, I suspect). At this point one would expect a movement towards a simple oakmoss base but you would be wrong - the green/floral heart gives way to a gorgeous carnation/labdanum accord that starts out with carnation's clove-like spiciness and slowly melds into a smooth labdanum base. The labdanum, with a hint of sandalwood, lingers for a good 2-3 hours before fading out.

Wow! To think that such a crisply and expertly constructed perfume should be intended for young women illustrates the artistry and pride of creation used by the perfume industry of yesteryear vs. the mindless, cheap drivel of today. I have to laugh when people complain that a fragrance "feels dated." I interpret this statement as saying "quality, rich compositions are too much to process." Generations of fragrance collectors think that bland, average compositions are acceptable and can't wrap their head around vintage quality. It's a shame that treasures like Caline are essentially lost, with the occasional bottle popping up now and then online.

Patou Caline is a treasure.

Notes (per green citrus, aldehydes, spices, May rose, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, cyclamen, cedarwood, santal, labdanum, moss and musk.
13th August, 2009

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