Jean-Louis Scherrer (1979)
by Jean-Louis Scherrer

Jean-Louis Scherrer is probably one of the greatest chypre cuir compositions ever made. I agree with some reviewers here who say JLS is reminiscent of other famous chypre cuir perfumes such as Cabochard and Bandit. Strangely enough, there is no leather in JLS according to the olfactive pyramid found on the Net.

Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, violet, cassia, hiacynth
Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, gardenia, orris root, jasmine, rose
Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, civet, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver, cedar

Moss and vetiver make for a great classic combination but they can be lethal when mixed with aldehydes and animalic notes. JLS could have been a very offensive stink-bomb! Thank God, it is magnificently balanced. Yes, it is definitely bitter and dry as a bone but it softens just a bit as soon as the dry-down process begins. The discreet sweeter notes (amber, vanilla, carnation) appear to be lost in the composition but they do a great "softening" job. The animalic notes are extremely present without being too heavy or skunky. And without the floral notes, Jean-Louis Scherrer would probably have been marketed as a masculine EDT. I think this fragrance is absolutely unique. There are quite a few light fresh green EDT's around but this one is anything but light and fresh. It is woody, rich and dark. Really dark. Not every woman can wear such a daring, strong and assertive fragrance. However, the lucky ones who can get away with it will get a lot of compliments.

23rd October, 2011.

A green, long-lasting, seductive, original, complex. harmonious scent. I prefer Scherrer to better known chypre classics. I discovered it in the mid-80's because a very fashionable student from Romania wore it every day. It was a gift from her boyfriend in Paris. At that time you couldn't find it anywhere in the States, so I had to wait months until I was in France to buy it. It may have been more popular in Europe, but in the States it was--and still is--a unique scent. Gorgeous. Green. Glamorous. Bold. And it goes on and on. I apply it lightly, wear it with caution, and generally turn to it only in moments of olfactory nostalgia.

2nd July, 2011.

Fragrances like Scherrer are what make perfume a passion, rather than a mere fascination.

Jean Louis-Scherrer's first fragrance is the greatest chypre ever made - earthy, dark green, leathery, powerful, melancholy, old-school, and most importantly, mysterious. Everything about it - construction, scent, attitude, sillage, longevity - is perfect, and for me it exudes a magic that no other fragrance can match.

Both the EDT and EDP are of equal quality and are worth scouring the earth for. If you manage to score a bottle, treasure it like it was part of your body.

For me, this may be the greatest perfume ever made. It's that good.

MY RATING: 10/10

29th April, 2011.

I have a pure parfum mini of Scherrer (unsure of time period). The top notes of this fragrance are immediately reminiscent, if not identical to, the original and distinctive green beginnings of Givenchy III. Then as the minutes pass, Scherrer begins to smell very much like a muted version of original Bandit or EL Azuree, a bitter twist of sharp floral notes which echo the formidable green classics that came before it. It is dark, mossy, green, foresty, and beautiful which, while adding nothing terribly original or unique to the chypre genre, plucks out and compiles all of the best aspects and accords of its predecessors into one perfume. Stunning, it is a favorite of this avowed chypre lover.

25th January, 2011.

This fragrance is Green_Green_Green, with leather lurking in the background. It is not for the faint (or young) of heart. It is complicated & sophistocated. The opening is a shocking dose of aldehydes & greens. Next comes a leathery rose, gardenia & tuberose accord followed by a green oakmoss, civet, vetivier & cedar drydown. Vanilla & musk also are listed in the bottom notes, but I cannot detect softness anywhere in this unrelenting fragrance. Visions of Joan Crawford with a whip flood my thoughts. I'm glad that I found a bottle on Ebay, because perfume like this no longer can be made. I am grateful for the opportunity to own Scherrer and will treasure my "little dose of pure poison".

27th October, 2010.

I'm SO with purplebird7 on this one: outdoorsy spicy florals on a mean mossy base. Lovely stuff, and so otherworldly to me as this is such an out-of-fashion scent. Very very green, but not sharp, soft in focus but clear in intent. Personally, I'd love to smell this on a bubbly 18 year old blonde beauty or a studious young man of about 24.

13rd December, 2009.