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Notes: apricot, tangerine, jasmine, orchid, tuberose, carnation, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, musk (OsMoz.com).
It takes work for me to get past Kashâya’s bubblegum and tropical “froot” top notes. They may have smelled exotic in 1994, but today they veer dangerously close to the adolescent mass market fruity floral cliché. With 100% Love, Yvresse, Jaïpur, and Calyx, perfumer Sophia Grojsman has made brash, plainly artificial, fruity top notes something of a calling card. In some cases – notably Yvresse and Calyx – they support an uplifting sweet accord that feels like a bath of olfactory sunshine. In others, say 100% Love, they take on an jarring chemical quality that fights with everything around them. While it holds together better than some of Grojsman’s more cacophonous arrangements, Kashâya comes across as a little bit bland.
With its lactonic fruity floral heart accord, its powdery vanillic amber, and its overall marshmallow olfactory texture, Kashâya is a close variation on the Yvresse formula, and a partial precursor to the lactonic fruity chypre idea that Aurélien Guichard has explored so successfully in Chinatown, Azzaro Couture, and Baghari. But where Yvresse reveals a mossy, chypre-like sweet base note accord, Kashâya aims east to arrive at a more resinous, balsamic oriental drydown. The result is a somewhat smoother, darker, and more rounded composition than Yvresse, but without the earlier scent’s distinctive effervescence. I can understand the affection some have for this scent, but with plenty of near analogues on the market I can also see how it drifted into obscurity.
24th January, 2010. |
Dane
wore this 6 months ago