The descriptions I’ve read don’t quite do justice to the experience of wearing Perles de Lalique. Yes, it’s an incense-seasoned woody rose scent, and yes, it has a pleasantly prickly black pepper top note. But Perles de Lalique doesn’t really fall in with the style of other peppery incense-and-rose scents like Parfum Sacré, Lyric, and Paestum Rose. Where each of those are to some degree dark, mysterious, and exotic, Perles de Lalique feels comparatively light, sunny, and cheerful. Part of this is due to the quality of its rose, which is more bright and fruity, in the manner of Une Zeste de Rose or Drôle de Rose, than languorous and heady. The rest stems from a very cool melony aquatic top note, borrowed directly from masculine fruity fougères and “sport” fragrances, and a much lighter hand on the woods and incense.
The fruity aquatic-tinged opening is as surprising in a feminine scent as it is banal in a masculine, and the rose steps up too quickly for the modest shock to get old. The pepper, woods, and fruity rose accord is very subtle and transparent, so that Perles de Lalique works primarily as a close-wearing skin scent. Its understated nature renders it more gender-neutral than its description might imply, and as a man I’d find it very comfortable to wear, especially in warmer weather. I smell nothing of the earthy, mossy classic chypre accord here, nor even much of the modern patchouli-fruit-and-iris chypre alternative that surfaces in scents like Chanel’s 31 Rue Cambon.
Perles de Lalique’s greatest liability is its drydown, which leans heavily on a abrasively chemical cedar-like base note that ironically parallels the opening in its suggestion of a commonplace masculine. Luckily, this bare drydown is much less potent or obtrusive than most of its masculine counterparts, and hence doesn’t ruin the entire fragrance. I confess to being baffled by all the references to chypre style in conjunction with this scent.
This is for the perfume strength
This is a beautiful, rather transparent, modern chypre. It opens up with a peppery rose, softens slightly with the inclusion of Iris and settles into a soft warm woody accord with Cashmeran and patchouli.
If I have one complaint, it is that there is more than a pinch too much pepper, which makes it a little too sharp. The overall effect is however a warm, somewhat masculine scent.
The EdP is similar and much more affordable, so if you are not into gorgeous Lalique crystal bottles, you should go for that.
02nd June, 2014 (last edited: 04th June, 2014)
Initially, I get lots of (too much, really) patchouli with a much lesser blushing rose and violet-ee orris butter. The overall effect reminds me a lot of Diane by Diane von Furstenberg. It's fine, I guess. I don't know. There's just so much out there like it employing the patchouli-rose accord (e.g., see Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle, Coco Noir, and Chance, Dior's Midnight Poison, Yves Saint Laurent's Elle, etc. ad nauseum).
PERLES DE LALIQUE – Lalique – 2006 [floral chypre]
I have only been able to learn three of this scent’s ingredients and indeed it may be that simple. This is a chypre that makes a statement, but never overpowers. The blend of Bulgarian rose and patchouli creates a dry, earthy rose scent, richer than Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet, sharper, but owing a good deal to this nineteenth century staple. Bold and masculine, self-assured. One of my favorite chypres.
Top Notes: ?
Middle Notes: Bulgarian rose
Base Notes: Bourbon Pepper, Patchouli
It is no secret that for a long time I've been searching for the perfect rose scent. I knew I wouldn't love a rose soliflore, there had to be other components, but who would have thought that pepper and patchouli would be its perfect counterparts.
Perles de Lalique is like heaven to me. It's a rich, tarty red rose amidst darker, masculine accords of pepper, patchouli, incense, woods and a hint of soap.
It's dark yet angelic, with a touch of strangeness. It smells like something you'd expect from Andy Tauer, just perhaps not as strong and bold. Both Perles de Lalique and Incense Rose share some similarities.
Lalique isn't entirely mainstream, yet it's not niche either. The quality of this scent however, begs to differ. It's just so warming and unique that I can't help falling head over heels in love with it.
It can be spicy at times, and a little sharp but I like that about it, it has presence. The scent is also dry, reminding me of rose potpourri. There are so many different dimensions to this fragrance.
The longevity and sillage are to die for, sending wafts of it around you like a cloud for the whole day. Another bonus is the rather affordable price tag which definitely took me by surprise. I managed to find a giftset with the large full bottle for around $80 AUD.
It may be early days, but this fragrance is full-fledged love.
Perles de Lalique presents a beautiful pepper / incense opening accord with a quiet rose for augmentation. The initial accord lasts through what would be the heart level and reaches into the mossy, light-woody, slightly powdery drydown that is first enriched by a soft orris that gradually turns into a translucent collection of oakmoss and light woods. I don’t experience a middle level in the progression of the fragrance… it seems to go directly from opening to base, both of which are more olfactory texture than strong, traditional accords. The clarity, sophistication, and discretion of this texture are impressive. Perles de Lalique becomes a near skin scent with lasting power suited to its character. Beautiful fragrance.