I haven't quite managed to understand Rumeur in its different vintage forms I have. There is one very butch, leathery and mossy version (which I like most) and others that are very chypré and, yes, smelling very modern and, yes, with a pronounced ginger note on the sweeter side. If the latter is your thing and you are desperate to find a substitute, try Roja Dove's Unspoken EdP and Extrait to cover some aspects!
I have several small bottles of the vintage extrait and this time I reached for one that looks 'newest' and most likelybest preserved (lighter jus) to me. Now I think I can fully grasp it. Costus, loads of (it's also in the old Vol de Nuit extrait) and a slightly aromatic bitterness (enforced by age?), smoky leathery impressions and finally one of the most beautiful and sombre chypré bases with only a bit of animalic undertones. Think of wearing this on a cold, rainy night, driving an old 1940s Volvo, smoke in the air... Truly the 'noirest' and most sombre chypré I am aware of! Moderate to low sillage and moderate to medium longevity! The great Lanvin classics are unrivalled as far as I am concerned.
12th May, 2011 (last edited: 08th September, 2012)
This review is for vintage Rumeur. A scent called Rumeur was put out (I can't even use the word "reissued" in this case) a few years ago by Lanvin (or whoever owns the company now) that is absolutely nothing like the original version of Rumeur, which I had been curious about ever since I bought that awful new version from T J Maxx a while back.
I had read elsewhere on the internet that vintage Rumeur was kind of medicinal smelling and heavy on the carnation/clove notes. But what I'm getting is spicy dried ginger note on a bed of very soft and subtle leather and oakmoss. If I didn't know what it was and somone had slipped their wrist up under my nose wearing this, I would swear someone had layered Serge Luten's Ambre Sultan with his Arabie. If you would have told me this was s Serge's newest release I would have believed it. This smells unbelivably contemporary.
I sat up late one night watching the 1930's coffret of 4 Lanvin parfums that this was a part of on ebay because I was after the scent Scandal. However, Rumeur turned out to be the big surprise. The sillage is decent. This is a scent that can be worn by men and women. People keep saying that they can't believe Scandal was discontinued. Well, I can't believe Rumeur was. This scarce scent is highly unusual and should be experienced.