Oropuro (2000)
by Laura Tonatto

Musk, Amber AND Civet all in one? How naughty! Well, not really - the Bergamont is a strong scrubbing presence throughout this racy number, and the whole mix has a unisex appeal and a refreshing summer and spring zing that makes it right for multiple locations, even in the office (use a light touch). Wrist-sniffing addiction is a certainty; I can close my eyes and channel a tuxedo-clad Marlene Dietrich in this one.

As with other concoctions by the famed Nose, this Laura Tonatto fragrance has a wonderful rounded softness in the background that speaks of cashmere and trust funds. Even if the civet is synthetic, it and the vanilla do a good job at presenting themselves most naturally. This soft, barely-there vanilla joins the rich comforting amber for a quiet, ethereal background that makes Oropuro a true cut above. Just lovely, redolent with old-time glamour, and disarmingly racy.

I can see how Marlen would find this similar to Or des Indes, but to my nose Oropuro is not as powdery or feminine as that. It is heavy, there is plenty of vanilla, and it is sweet, but it is also smooth with a spicy exotic touch and an animalic presence in the base. In some ways it reminds me a bit of a spicier Habit Rouge, without the citrus component, and with a bit more of an ambery drydown.

Heavy vanilla oriental scent, reminded me of MPG Or des Indes though not as powdery. A bit too cloying for my tastes.