Perfume Directory

Crêpe de Chine (1925)
by Long Lost Perfume (originally by Millot)

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Crêpe de Chine information

Year of Launch1925
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 37 votes)

People and companies

HouseLong Lost Perfume
Originally byMillot
Parent CompanyIrma Shorell

About Crêpe de Chine

Crêpe de Chine is a feminine perfume by Long Lost Perfume. The scent was launched in 1925

Reviews of Crêpe de Chine

The original version in parfum concentration is heaven in a bottle. This is the richest and silkiest of flowery green chypres with a decidedly vintage air. My bottle is ancient, and to newer perfumistas, it probably smells that way too. I, however, love its old-fashioned temperament. It is perhaps, the softest (and yet, spiciest) chypre I've ever smelled: green and creamy with an incredible deep base of patchouli and musk that goes on and on. It is the most round and dreamy and evenly balanced fragrance I own, but I can only wear it occasionally, since my own temperament is somewhat bent and spiky and with this on, I feel almost in disguise.
25th September, 2017 (last edited: 04th May, 2018)
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
This is for the original vintage version, the perfume extraît and the Eau de Parfum:
The perfect merger between traditional chypre and floral characters. Age has wearied the citrus notes but the Eau de Parfum especially has a fine bergamot in the opening. Whilst the classic carnation-jasmine dyad forms a floral backbone of the drydown, labdanum and yang-ylang add depth, and a dark rose is added on at times. From early on the green darkness of patchouli with a dark musk and a rich, gorgeous oakmoss lead to the Janus-like character of this sublime creation: chypre and floral, like a flower field in dark forest after the rain.

The merger of the two worlds is of perfect balance, with the perfume extraît bringing out the chypre a bit more, but my extraît is probably the older of the two. The quality of the ingredients is unsurpassed. As far as the performance in concerned, I get strong sillage, great projection and a longevity of eight hours in the EdP; and three more hours in the perfume, which is overall stronger and a bit darker.

A grand classic and the perfect, paradigmatic dark chypre-floral scent. 4.75/5.
13th December, 2014
One of the greatest of all floral chypres, balancing depth, warmth, sweetness and spiciness. Buy the vintage parfum on Ebay - seemingly always available. The Eau de Crepe de Chine is lighter, a green floral chypre, quite different, but just as nice.

Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Neroli
Heart notes: Carnation, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang, Lilac
Base notes: Oakmoss, Vetiver, Labdanum, Benzoin, Patchouli, Musk

Avoid at all costs the modern attempts to recreate it, such as Long Lost perfume, which are dismal failures.

First Edit: Recently I experienced aged vintage Crepe de Chine parfum, and it had mellowed down to a spicy carnation/jasmine combo with a patchouli/vetiver base. Still wonderful.
28th July, 2014 (last edited: 27th August, 2017)
Millot's original Crepe de Chine is indeed a classic of the perfume world, even if it's not as well known as its contemporaries --- Chanel No. 5, Shalimar, Arpege, Soir de Paris et al. It was a pioneering scent at its introduction in 1925 --- one of the very first fresh chypre scents, along with Guerlain's Mitsouko and Coty's original Chypre, and it doesn't smell dated at all --- it's still elegant, refined, complex, and very intriguing.

H&R's Fragrance Guide lists the notes of the original formula as follows:

Top: Bergamot, lemon, orange, neroli, fruity note
Middle: Carnation, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lilac
Base: Oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum, benzoin, patchouli, musk
16th June, 2014
How well I remember this beautiful classic French fragrance from the early 1960's. I can even still "see" the lovely ads in Vogue magazine that featured models of various races. I was so disapoointed when Crepe de Chine was discontinued.

I naively purchased the new American-made knock-off. It's horrible. The dry down smells like urine. Be careful of these new knockoffs because they cannot hold a candle to the exquisite original classics. Crepe de Chine could be the worst of the worst of the new fakes. "Caveat emptor," my fellow fragrance lovers.
29th June, 2012 (last edited: 01st July, 2012)
BayKAT Show all reviews
United States
(Original review, not Long Lost's version)

I"m at a loss why this went out of production, but it did, so there you are. With today's restrictions it wouldn't have fared well anyway, so it's probably best that it went in peace.

But I would put this on the short list of 'top 25 best perfumes of all time'. In 1925 Guerlain released 'shalimar', and we can only wonder how the these two compared in their original glory.

Chene is basically a pitch perfect green chypre. It is so vibrant and rich. The aldehydes are kept at bay, thankfully, and the florals are very discreet.

This scent smells like life to me, as if a bolt of electricity was buzzing about your person. They just don't make 'em like this anymore. Please, please let this oakmoss crap be a replay of the Coca-Cola disaster; and soon we'll get a big apology from the industry when the old formulas are restored and the term 'classic' is slapped across all bottles.

Try Chene if you can.
08th December, 2010

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