Jasmin (1988)
by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Jasmine is a floral note that lives within many fragrances spanning time and even gender. When a parfumer introduces this abundantly fragrant flower as the focal point of a scent, I'm all set to try it! Many times my nose meets with disappointment as so many of these so called "jasmines" contain a multitude of other notes that either overrun the jasmine, or flat out steal the jasmine's spotlight. With that said, you can tell I'm just a little bit picky!

In MPG's rendition Jasmin, the opening note of this flower is authentic, delicate and beautiful. It is accompanied by a touch of green, which IMO always compliments jasmine and enables it to sustain a certain quality of freshness. It is clearly sustained throughout the entire wearing, thus earning it's 'jasmin' name. Also living in this blend is a healthy dose of oakmoss. Oakmoss imparts a serious dry feeling, cutting away any excessive sweetness that may exist. It's enjoyable; a unique pairing. If you normally don't care for the scent of jasmine, this is truly a different presentation ~ completely worth trying. After sampling this juice on my body for a couple days, it is what some refer to as 'indolic'. I call it 'fleshy'. My recommendation is to give this one a serious trial - then decide for yourself. It is worthy of a fair wear!

There’s a bit of rose and a bit more of green, but the substantial aroma is jasmine in the opening and heart. The indole exuberance of jasmine hits full force in the opening, but only for a very short time, to be replaced by a soft, rather dry (for jasmine), flower-spicy version of jasmine. I do find the jasmine note somewhat dirty and I think the fragrance is quite attractive. It is sophisticated in the sense of the fullness of the floral aroma, especially with the oakmoss base shadowing and supporting the floral notes. But the scent is not at all complex; it is unusually straightforward and basically linear. One has to love jasmine to love Jasmine, and I guess I am a jasmine lover. The fragrance is quite feminine, and I wouldn’t wear it, but I staunchly approve of it…it is beautiful.

I think MPG's jasmine is of the indolic sort, but I'm not confident in my use of the word indolic, so I'll explain that this is not the sweet, dripping nectar of Montale's Jasmin Full but a dirtier hyacinth-like flower. With so many jasmine fragrances available, and given MPG's price tag, I'll pass on this one.