Secrète Datura (1992)
by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

l don't know what datura flower smells like, but this fragrance definitely has a dark, mysterious quality for me. lt opens with a note like damp, slightly bitter green leaves, like the depths of a forgotten secret garden allowed to grow wild. l don't get a chocolate note, but something more like almonds, as well as soft whispers of jasmine & hyacinth. But throughout all this there's a strange, mossy green note in the background that keeps it interesting, & suggests something poisonous yet seductive. l can't imagine wearing this on a night out, for me it's an introspective fragrance, perfect for pottering in the garden on a damp, cloudy day. Somehow l feel l blend in with the plants & soil when wearing Secrete Datura.

3rd February, 2011.

Very dry white floral notes dominate Secrète Datura's start, resting upon a crisp, powdery foundation. The heart accord is very soapy, with a hint of orange blossom flickering in the background. Green notes emerge in the heart, adding some grit to the olfactory experience.

After about an hour, the composition begins to darken, though it somehow never manages to catch the menacing nocturnal intrigue of the sweetly scented, yet deadly toxic datura flower. Ultimately, I expected more mystery out of this scent, as lovely as it is, and so I’m left a little disappointed.

11th December, 2009.

Secrète Datura is clearly a floral but does not smell like any flower I've ever come across, and is blended with a great dollop of warm musk and powder. I didn't care for its initial aggressiveness but after 5-10 minutes, it dried down to a pleasant gentle fragrance. Secrète Datura reminds me a lot of old-fashioned loose talc powder, furry powder puffs and pale pink silk ribbons. An elderly maiden aunt would be very pleased to receive Secrète Datura.

Per The Perfumed Court, here are the notes: Datura flower, sandalwood, vanilla and chocolate.

8th July, 2008.

Quite strong at first – definite floriental. I don’t know what the datura blossom smells like, and I don’t think that this fragrance will educate me on that because there are just so many different floral notes present. I find the jasmine and orange flower and neroli identifiable, but the rest of the floral notes are just nameless entities lost in a big beautiful bouquet. After fifteen minutes the potency of Secrète Datura has dropped to almost decent levels and it presents primarily a white floral ambiance that is strong but not at all cloying or heady. An hour or so later, it has become a bit more gourmand than floral, and it quite hugs the skin with a solid ambiance that I find rather foody / sensual.

This scent is not for everyone – especially for the first hour or two. It is initially potent , but it is a beautifully constructed fragrance with rich and satisfying floral elements, later further enriched by those succulent semi-gourmand accords. It lasts forever, and it presents what I think is a beautifully adult femininity. It requires someone special, and it certainly isn’t for shrinking violets.

10th March, 2008.

Similar to Montale's Sweet Oriental Dream, only less intense - more wearable! (CALCHIC's got the details covered on this one!)

15th October, 2007.

Calchic has done a commanding review. I'll simply add that, in addition to the floral/heliotrope impression, I sense an amber tone. In a blind sampling, I'd have guessed this was Boucheron Trouble applied very lightly.

18th May, 2006.